Flat Brew

mac · Post by **mac** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:48 pm

I've had my first ever brew comfy and cozy tucked up in 20 C and secondary primed since 8th March. I've just drawn a sample off to see how its doing and I noticed than air glugged back up through the tap. This made me wonder if there was pressure in the keg. When I pulled back the seal expecting a hiss of Co2, there was nothing. I unscrewed the lid to double check and there was no pressure at all.
The gravity has dropped from 06 to 03 since it's been in the keg.

What should I do?

Apart from smelling slightly yeasty, it's clear and drinkable.

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:41 pm

your seal might be dodgy on the top, put some vasaline on rubber ring.
did you prime with sugar?

buzzrtbi · Post by **buzzrtbi** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:36 am

Like BB said - If you are using a King Keg or similar the gas pressure loss is usually a dodgy top seal.

If you have primed the keg with some sugar and kept it like you say - there should be some pressure there. Of course if the yeast has died then no amount of priming will correct that. But lets assume all is well. you need to make sure that air is not drawn in.

Does your keg allow a CO2 cartridge? If it does you should add a short blast. Air glugging back in through the tap will oxidise your beer in no time and if you will have beer gone off after no more than a week (less at 20 degrees).

If you are using a hambleton bard cylinder you can flush the air out of the keg by rolling the keg back and tap facing up and purging the air by twisting the cartridge and opening the tap. The downside is that it disturbs the sediment but this will clear given time. Most important thing is to keep the air out.

mac · Post by **mac** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:57 pm

buzzrtbi wrote:Like BB said - If you are using a King Keg or similar the gas pressure loss is usually a dodgy top seal.

If you have primed the keg with some sugar and kept it like you say - there should be some pressure there. Of course if the yeast has died then no amount of priming will correct that. But lets assume all is well. you need to make sure that air is not drawn in.

Does your keg allow a CO2 cartridge? If it does you should add a short blast. Air glugging back in through the tap will oxidise your beer in no time and if you will have beer gone off after no more than a week (less at 20 degrees).

If you are using a hambleton bard cylinder you can flush the air out of the keg by rolling the keg back and tap facing up and purging the air by twisting the cartridge and opening the tap. The downside is that it disturbs the sediment but this will clear given time. Most important thing is to keep the air out.

I'm thinking that because the gravity dropped and the beer tastes ok, the yeast must have converted the secondary priming sugar.
The keg is a Â£17 Willkinsons job. I wanted it to be natural Co2 only, but needs must.
I can get a barrel cap with a brass valve and some Co2 bulbs. If you think that's all is needed, that's good enough for me.
I'm off to Wilko's.
Cheers Buzz.

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:24 pm

I'd avoid the Co2 bulbs, very expensive, fit a S30 valve and use a hambleton bard cylinder or use a convert kit to use a soda stream bottle!

http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/catalog/ca ... GAS2157070

John

mac · Post by **mac** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:17 pm

BarnsleyBrewer wrote:I'd avoid the Co2 bulbs, very expensive, fit a S30 valve and use a hambleton bard cylinder or use a convert kit to use a soda stream bottle!

http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/catalog/ca ... GAS2157070

John

John,

I was only after a quick fix with this one keg because I'd like to keep my beer naturally carbonated. 25L is going to last for about 2 weeks. Am I expecting too much? If so, will my brew be OK in the keg until I get a Hambleton Bard or Sodastream bottle.

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:35 pm

Natural carbonation is O.K if your only pulling 1 or 2 pints a night...
I've always force carbonated with c02 and quite pleased with the resulting pint, best thing I've ever bought though was a cornie keg and scrounged a mixed gas bottle from a pub and reg valve!

mac · Post by **mac** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:00 pm

BarnsleyBrewer wrote:Natural carbonation is O.K if your only pulling 1 or 2 pints a night...
I've always force carbonated with c02 and quite pleased with the resulting pint, best thing I've ever bought though was a cornie keg and scrounged a mixed gas bottle from a pub and reg valve!

A Cornie keg is on my near future shopping list. If I don't get on with natural fizz, a gas bottle and reg will also end up on the list. That's my main reservation over paying Â£20 for a Hambleton Bard cylinder.

In the mean time do you think an 8g bulb would offer a cheap fix?

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:21 pm

If you have long term plans about buying cornies you might be better going for a cheap quick fix!

mac · Post by **mac** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:51 pm

BarnsleyBrewer wrote:If you have long term plans about buying cornies you might be better going for a cheap quick fix!

Do I only use one bulb per keg or will it need more. they come in packs of ten in my local Wilco's.

buzzrtbi · Post by **buzzrtbi** » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:26 am

you will need more than 1. The beer will absorb some of the C02 anyway plus you will need to purge the barrel.

The good thing with the Cornie system or Hambleton Bard is that you can just give it a quick blast when it needs it whereas the C02 cartridges are a one hit wonder.

Where are you located? PM me as I have a Hambleton Bard cylinder kicking about you can have

Jim's Beer Kit

Practical Homebrewing

HomeBrew Forum

Sponsored by BREW-SCHOOL

Flat Brew

Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew

Re: Flat Brew