CoolBox mash tun getting rebuilt

[jat147]

Howdy,
I've had enough stuck mash using the braided steel hose filter version of the coolbox mash tun.

So, we're rebuilding using copper pipes - like i should have from the start.
Question is what bore copper will work?
I fancy using 22mm which is so expensive it's scary - £17 just for the pipe, not including elbows, etc.
Much more affordable is 15mm, I just wonder if it's wide enough to work very well?

Don't want to make this thing 3 times if i can help it...

Anyone had any issues worth sharing?

thanks in advance.

[crookedeyeboy]

15mm is fine Ive never had a problem with it

[boingy]

I use the standard Hop and Grape one, made from 15mm tube. I have doubled the number of slots in it using a hack saw. Works fine, quick run off, never had a stuck mash.

The H&G design has 5 parallel tubes. Here is a rubbish piccy from their website:



The slots are cut halfway through and face downwards. None of the joints are soldered - they just push together so it is easy to clean.

[JayM72]

Howdy,
I've had enough stuck mash using the braided steel hose filter version of the coolbox mash tun.

Have you thought about having a false to sit about the level of the tap and hose? This is what I've got and have no problems. The only drawback is that you need to allow for the additional dead space.

[Kev888]

From what i can work out harvesting info from the various threads on here, its the number shape and size of holes that are the key, rather than the size of the pipe they're in. I can't see myself wanting to empty the MT faster than a 15mm pipe would allow, except maybe during cleaning/rinsing, and the taps would have to match the bore to make even that fully utilised.

That said this is currently a second hand opinion - I just happen to have been looking into it for my first MT build (so far I've only used net bags with grain).

Cheers
kev

[Piscator]

Heres a picture of mine - made using 15mm copper and end feed joints (pushed together not soldered for easy cleaning)

Make sure the joint to the tap connector is soldered (or use a compression fitting) so that you have an airtight joint, otherwise the siphon effect is broken too soon and you will not drain down properly.
I only lose about 500ml to mine and connect the manifold to an ordinary drum tap.


I have also done a close up of the slot spacing for you - this was the most tedious part. Watch out for the tendancy the pipe will have to rotate as you cut. I found the best results came from only dragging the hacksaw backwards rather then cutting in both directions.


I have never had a stuck mash with mine, even mashing wheat beers.

Go for it!

[jat147]

great photos - nice work

thanks

[Piscator]

Thats okay - hope yours turns out well.

Don't forget to post pic's for us.

Cheers
Steve