vacant wrote:My answer: You'll work it out
yes you will.
KISS Keep it simple etc.......
Read Mr Graham Wheelers book.
If you want to mash at 66C then add 9 degs and strike at 75C OK.
If it is a cold day add a degree or two if hot take off a degree.
If it is a thin mash then take off a degree or two. If it is a thick mash then do nothing (GW based his number on a thick mash)
If you want to swill your tun with water at strike temperature beforehand then that is OK and if you do so take off a degree or so for the warm bits.
But do not worry, IT IS VERY GOOD TO GET THE TEMP TOO HOT OR TOO COLD ONCE OR TWICE, then you will discover what difference temp makes and whether the books are right when they say warm is sweet and cool is dry.
WHATEVER YOU DO. DO NOT EVER EVER get so retentive as to start sticking thermometers into your bag of malt or taking it in from the garage overnight. Please just don't so it. If for some good reason you do not know whether your malt is warm or cold then STICK YOUR HAND IN THE BAG, smell into the bag, a.) it is a lovely smell and b.) your nose is very sensitive to temperature.
Crikey. Beer drinking is fun and making it is even more fun, chill out ( not literaly of course hee hee!)
Oh Oh! One final bit!. The malt you buy actually has a very very low moisture content ( usually) and when it gets mashed the hydration of the malt generates heat and increases the temperature by a degree or two ( a degree in a thin mash and two in a thick one!).
Do not rush the doughing/mashing in and if the temperature is a wee bit wrong a a pint or two of cold water or boiling water.
Finally, PUT THE LID ON AND FORGET IT FOR 90 MINUTES. or if it was at least 66C then forget for 60 mins cos. if it is warm the mash will be fully converted quite quickly.
Regards JP
(awkward squad)