Batch vs fly sparge

[boingy]

I use Beersmith software to calculate the quantities but we have a simple-to-use calculator right here on Jim's:

www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/batchcalc.php

Mash and sparge to collect your target quantity then either dump the remaining grain/wort or experiment separately with it (hence me sometimes rinsing it through and making a "small beer"). If the batch sparge numbers are correct there should not be any significant wort left behind. It can, of course, take a while to drain the last bit but assuming your boiler is not doubling up as your HLT you can start the boil going as soon as there is enough wort to cover the elements or bottom of the pan, just don't start your boil timer until the whole lot is in there and up to the boil.

It sounds complicated but batch sparging is a process of add hot water, stir lots, wait 10 mins, drain as fast as you like, repeat one more time.

[dreadskin69]

Yeah mate, sounds findsimple. I've used the calculator, but i don't understand why adding 10ltrs before you drain the tun is necessary. I definitely get adding water mixing and draining after the first wort has been drained, but don't understand why the wee tiny bit before the first running have been drained.

[Kev888]

Yeah mate, sounds findsimple. I've used the calculator, but i don't understand why adding 10ltrs before you drain the tun is necessary. I definitely get adding water mixing and draining after the first wort has been drained, but don't understand why the wee tiny bit before the first running have been drained.

If you just drain instead of adding a bit of hot water, then the first batch is usually a thicker mix and also slightly cooler so won't rinse out quite as easily. Physically speaking it will be slightly stiffer to stir before draining, and also means that the second batch has to be bigger which isn't good if the MT is of limited size. I'm sure theres also some deep science but if so I don't really know it either...

But this won't usually make a massive difference, its just considered a slightly better way to do it. Also the disparity changes with different recipies - those with lower gravities have more total liquid for the amount of grain, and so if you always mash at the same grain/water ratio and don't top up, to compensate the second batch needs to get progressively bigger in relation to the first.

Cheers
Kev

[dreadskin69]

Cheers. So wat temp should u pump it in at then?

[Kev888]

The aim is to add water thats warm enough to bring the mash up to around (IMO) 75c when all mixed in. This is warm enough to stop the enzymes so the mash process is halted in a controlled/consistent way (that you can repeat every time), and also the warmer temps helps rinse out the sugars. So, the temperature of the water you should add depends on what your mash temperature was (and how much heat your MT absorbs if its significant) and the volumes of your particular brew.

Again this is a refinement - you will still make beer if its not spot on, but its better to be under rather than over temperature as you could wash out undesirable stuff if it gets too warm. I don't have my spreadsheet to hand but its just a formula based on the specific heat capacities of wort and grain - I'm sure someone can help, or there are calculators for infusion mashing around the internet.

EDIT: forgot to mention - in some cases you won't be able to get the first batch as hot as this, because you only add so much water; in those cases (or where you don't want to bother with preparing two different water temperatures) I'd personally try to just get the second batch at the right temperature.

Cheers
Kev

[Jim Blockley]

Looks like I kicked off a nice debate! There's some great advice here, thanks to everyone. I can't wait for my next one, but if anyone's interested in my first AG Brewday, take a look at my post here: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=57460

[nala]

I was under the impression that fly sparging was used when the mash tun was not large enough to get a good deal of the sparge
water into the mash tun.
I batch sparge and am able to get 85% of my sparge water into the mash tun, I give things a good stir with my mash paddle
and leave to settle for 10 minutes before I re-circulate using my little brown-pump, I re-circulate until the wort is so clear that I
can see through the clear tubing. I then pump to the boiler and as soon as enough room at the top of the mash allows I include
the remainder of my sparge water, I run this until I have my pre-boil volume of 29 litres for a cooled volume of 24 litres,
21 litres into fermenter.
I always brew to a recipe and am able to hit the required numbers consistantly I am not interested in the bragging rights of higher efficiency which to me would mean I had not achieved my goal....brew to the recipe !