Hello it is me again:)
I have never used protofloc since I am on my second AG brew now and I wanted to ask you:
1) Would you use protofloc in a witbier?
2) Is protofloc added 10 mins before the boil ends, 1 tablet per 100 L?
3) How does protofloc work? Does it bring all the proteins and haze on the bottom of your kettle? If yes, then you will still have the proteins in your fermenter, no?... Or do the proteins and haze stay at the top?
Thank you!
General questions about protofloc and use in witbier
Re: General questions about protofloc and use in witbier
I never used it previously, I just fined when I racked my beer.
At work, I use 3 tabs per 350L brew. Seems to work for me.
I brewed a Hefeweizien at home last weekend, and stull put half a tab in 50L.
I always add 15 mins before power out, BUT I have had to boil for longer, after adding the tabs. So theyve been in 30-40 mins before the end of the boil, and I made note to check that batch, and saw no difference in clarity. again though, thats in final beer, which has been finned in the cask too.
I find in my kettle, the boil hops create a good filter bed, and then all the muck sits on top of that. Also the hope filter helps.
The only thing I plan to do different for the hefe is not fine it with isinglass, so it will still be cloudy when served. I'll let you know how it goes as iyts the first wheat beer I've made at home and used protofloc
At work, I use 3 tabs per 350L brew. Seems to work for me.
I brewed a Hefeweizien at home last weekend, and stull put half a tab in 50L.
I always add 15 mins before power out, BUT I have had to boil for longer, after adding the tabs. So theyve been in 30-40 mins before the end of the boil, and I made note to check that batch, and saw no difference in clarity. again though, thats in final beer, which has been finned in the cask too.
I find in my kettle, the boil hops create a good filter bed, and then all the muck sits on top of that. Also the hope filter helps.
The only thing I plan to do different for the hefe is not fine it with isinglass, so it will still be cloudy when served. I'll let you know how it goes as iyts the first wheat beer I've made at home and used protofloc
Re: General questions about protofloc and use in witbier
I have found it needs boiling for a good 20 minutes otherwise it remains active in the fermenter where I have seen it do the same job on the yeast and drop it too soon.Mther wrote:Hello it is me again:)
I have never used protofloc since I am on my second AG brew now and I wanted to ask you:
1) Would you use protofloc in a witbier? No, not really any point
2) Is protofloc added 10 mins before the boil ends, 1 tablet per 100 L? Check what the instructions on yours say - I've seen some wide variation, think there must be some for trade and some for homebrew
3) How does protofloc work? Does it bring all the proteins and haze on the bottom of your kettle? If yes, then you will still have the proteins in your fermenter, no?... Or do the proteins and haze stay at the top? Essentially is is carageenan and binds the break material together helping it drop out more effectively. Once the brew has been chilled post boil let it sit for a while and it will drop out. Your hop bed will filter most of it out, don't worry about the rest.
Thank you!
Never seen this effect with a 20 min boil.
Cheers
Steve
Re: General questions about protofloc and use in witbier
Cheers guys, you answered all my questions thank you Steve and Cazamodo! I will brew a witbier tomorrow so I won't be using it but Cazamodo please let us know how your Hefeweizen goes!
Thanks again
Thanks again
Re: General questions about protofloc and use in witbier
Yes, don't bother with protofloc on wheat beers. They are meant to be hazy. Similarly don't bother with stouts either. For pale ales I use 1/3 of a tablet in a 5 gallon brew for 20 minutes. I add it at the same time as the cooling coil goes in.
Stay Home - Make Beer - Drink Beer