Sparge volumes
Sparge volumes
Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere I searched but couldn't find what I need
Preparing for my first AG after 3 kits in quick succession. Know I won't be happy until I've done it from scratch
I'm using Parkes Self-sufficiency Home Brewing, Greg Hughes Home Brew Beer and Brewer's Friend online
There is divergent advice on sparge volumes for a 23L batch
Parkes reckons sparge the same vol as mash at about 2.5L/kg; boil and then top-up to 23L
Hughes advises to prepare at least 20L of sparge water which concurs with Brewer's Friend
So my question is - how do you know when your sparge is adequate/complete?
By colour? By measurement?
Pls help don't want to nause up my first run
BTW had brilliant service/advice from Peter at The Hop Shop Plymouth over the phone and email - he must be going nuts with my questions but is too nice to let on!!
Preparing for my first AG after 3 kits in quick succession. Know I won't be happy until I've done it from scratch
I'm using Parkes Self-sufficiency Home Brewing, Greg Hughes Home Brew Beer and Brewer's Friend online
There is divergent advice on sparge volumes for a 23L batch
Parkes reckons sparge the same vol as mash at about 2.5L/kg; boil and then top-up to 23L
Hughes advises to prepare at least 20L of sparge water which concurs with Brewer's Friend
So my question is - how do you know when your sparge is adequate/complete?
By colour? By measurement?
Pls help don't want to nause up my first run
BTW had brilliant service/advice from Peter at The Hop Shop Plymouth over the phone and email - he must be going nuts with my questions but is too nice to let on!!
Re: Sparge volumes
In that case treat and make up about the same volume of sparge liquor as you intend to collect in your fermenter e.g 23L - use this to sparge until you have collected your target pre-boil volume. This will not require all the liquor you prepared - keep the remainder of this treated liquor handy during the boil to use to top up, that way you kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Re: Sparge volumes
I always prepare 23L of liquor for sparging, but how much you need depends on a few things; If you use more grain then that absorbs more water, if you use more whole hops then they absorb more wort and it also depends on how vigorous your boil is, how much evaporation you get and how much wort gets left with the break material at the bottom of your boiler. At first you wont know your efficiency which could vary between 70-85%, but will become repeatable as you progress. You will get to know your kit after a few brews. My advice would be to keep the first few recipes simple and similar and take good notes of each brew and tweak the next ones until you get closer to your target.
Stay Home - Make Beer - Drink Beer
Re: Sparge volumes
In addition to the above advice - Mr Wheeler recommends you can continue sparging until the run-off reaches 1.005 on the hydrometer 

Re: Sparge volumes
I can't fit all that volume into my boiler without risking a boil over - ask me how I knowdaddies-beer-factory wrote:In addition to the above advice - Mr Wheeler recommends you can continue sparging until the run-off reaches 1.005 on the hydrometer

Re: Sparge volumes
Thanks Guys that helps
1.005 contradicts Hughes who says 'Be careful not to oversparge. If your runnings drop below 1010 it means there is a likelihood that tannins are starting to be extracted from the grain which will affect the quality of the finished beer' That's what got me spooked in the first instance
I've obviously got to have a play
Thanks again
1.005 contradicts Hughes who says 'Be careful not to oversparge. If your runnings drop below 1010 it means there is a likelihood that tannins are starting to be extracted from the grain which will affect the quality of the finished beer' That's what got me spooked in the first instance
I've obviously got to have a play
Thanks again
Re: Sparge volumes
TBH on brew #1 I'd forget about it and just concentrate on learning the sequence of events, remembering to put the hop filter in the boiler, collecting the right amounts etc
There's quite enough going on to keep you fully occupied on brew #1 - don't worry..... you WILL make beer.
If you do measure gravities during the process don't forget to correct for temperature or you will really get yourself in a muddle. Also don't dump your hydrometer into red hot wort - it's not kind to them.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Steve
There's quite enough going on to keep you fully occupied on brew #1 - don't worry..... you WILL make beer.
If you do measure gravities during the process don't forget to correct for temperature or you will really get yourself in a muddle. Also don't dump your hydrometer into red hot wort - it's not kind to them.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Steve
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Re: Sparge volumes
+1

I'd include ensuring all taps are in the right position (normally closed !). My first few brews included a fair amount of wort dumped on the floor instead of the fermenter as I forgotten to close the tap DohPiscator wrote:TBH on brew #1 I'd forget about it and just concentrate on learning the sequence of events, remembering to put the hop filter in the boiler, collecting the right amounts etc
There's quite enough going on to keep you fully occupied on brew #1

Re: Sparge volumes
Just found an app call Sparge Pal on the App Store.
Has anybody tried it?
Has anybody tried it?
Sabro Single Hop NEIPA 25/02/20 CLICK ME to monitor progress with Brewfather & iSpindel
Re: Sparge volumes
Just use G.W's Beer engine and it will work out all volumes required.
I buy my grain & hops from here http://www.homebrewkent.co.uk/
I have taken more out of alcohol than alcohol has taken out of me - Winston Churchill
I have taken more out of alcohol than alcohol has taken out of me - Winston Churchill
Re: Sparge volumes
Well I did my first AG
Spent quite a bit of time comparing sparge volumes. Using Hughes/Wheeler/Brewers Friend/Beersmith there was a fair spread from 10-19L (1/2 batch)
I took Cestrian's advice and used Wheeler which was 12L but tweaked as follows:
I measured dead space in the boiler and tun; i.e. water left even after I tipped vessels up which was 1L for copper and 1.5L for tun. So I heated 6+12+2.5 rounded to 21L
Used 7.5L Mash (6+1.5) then sparged 13.5L
The sparge wasn't desperately successful as I was on my own and it keep dropping into the tun. Think I'll batch sparge next time and put the £25 down to experience!
Had almost 17L @ 1029 into the copper and just over 13L @ 1033 after boil relative to the 11.5L target. OG's way off as there was a good correlation between all sources at about 1046 so I don't know what's happened there
I made a cock-up with ingredients which is embarrassing but I changed the recipes and OG didn't change much
Anyway I broke my duck
Spent quite a bit of time comparing sparge volumes. Using Hughes/Wheeler/Brewers Friend/Beersmith there was a fair spread from 10-19L (1/2 batch)
I took Cestrian's advice and used Wheeler which was 12L but tweaked as follows:
I measured dead space in the boiler and tun; i.e. water left even after I tipped vessels up which was 1L for copper and 1.5L for tun. So I heated 6+12+2.5 rounded to 21L
Used 7.5L Mash (6+1.5) then sparged 13.5L
The sparge wasn't desperately successful as I was on my own and it keep dropping into the tun. Think I'll batch sparge next time and put the £25 down to experience!
Had almost 17L @ 1029 into the copper and just over 13L @ 1033 after boil relative to the 11.5L target. OG's way off as there was a good correlation between all sources at about 1046 so I don't know what's happened there
I made a cock-up with ingredients which is embarrassing but I changed the recipes and OG didn't change much
Anyway I broke my duck