hello all, Ive been lurking around the forum for a little while, and thought I'd seek a bit of advice, I've looked at a few hefeweizen recipies that are out there and formulated my own, cos they all seem a bit stingy on the hops to me. I'd aprechiate people's opinions on whether this is likely to be drinkable.
for 5 imp. gallons
mash: (66deg c, 2 hours)
2.5kg extra pale maris otter
2.5kg wheat malt
boil:
10g northern brewer (9.5% alpha) 60 min
40g saaz (3.8% alpha) 60 min
10g saaz (3.8% alpha) 15 min
irish moss 1 tsp 15 min
yeast:
brewferm blanche
aprox og 1054 (75% efficiency)
hefeweizen 1st atempt, any advice?
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delboy
Hefeweizens are 'tradationally' hopped very low, the characteristics of the 'hefe' yeast ie the esters and other volatile compounds in conjunction with the flavour of the yeast itself in suspension are supposed to be at the fore and not hops.
They tend to be highly carbonated with the resulting carbonic acid taking care of excess sweetness and giving that 'bite' which is normally produced by hops.
If thats what you fancy, go for it thats the beauty of AG brewing you can do things outside the box
(although usually styles etc have evolved over 100s of years for a reason).
They tend to be highly carbonated with the resulting carbonic acid taking care of excess sweetness and giving that 'bite' which is normally produced by hops.
If thats what you fancy, go for it thats the beauty of AG brewing you can do things outside the box
(although usually styles etc have evolved over 100s of years for a reason).-
Seveneer
I have found if I over hop, I just have to wait longer for it to fade.
Let me know how the yeast turns out, I chickened out when I did mine and bought some WLP 300 iirc instead of using the brewferm yeast I had, so I have no idea what the yeast is like.
Good luck.
Let me know how the yeast turns out, I chickened out when I did mine and bought some WLP 300 iirc instead of using the brewferm yeast I had, so I have no idea what the yeast is like.
Good luck.
Fermenter(s): Lambic, Wheat beer, Amrillo/Cascade Beer
Cornys: Hobgoblin clone, Four Shades Stout, Wheat Beer, Amarillo/Cascade Ale, Apple Wine, Cider, Damson Wine, Ginger Beer
Cornys: Hobgoblin clone, Four Shades Stout, Wheat Beer, Amarillo/Cascade Ale, Apple Wine, Cider, Damson Wine, Ginger Beer
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jonty
the mash is underway,.,
I still haven't quite decided on the hop additions, my calculations gave me 32 ibu so not far off what Seveneer said, I am somone who likes a lot of hops, I usualy find that I want just a little more than I've got 
Something to note, I found the wheat malt went a bit clumpy when doughed in, had to do quite a bit of stirring and breaking up of clumps, also cant find my big thermometer
so I'm using a tichy 4 " one.
thanks for the comments.
Looks like I'll be sparging at about 11pm so I may be finished by 2am if I'm lucky, good thing I'm a night owl!
Something to note, I found the wheat malt went a bit clumpy when doughed in, had to do quite a bit of stirring and breaking up of clumps, also cant find my big thermometer
so I'm using a tichy 4 " one.thanks for the comments.
Looks like I'll be sparging at about 11pm so I may be finished by 2am if I'm lucky, good thing I'm a night owl!
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Calum
)-
jonty
well its all in the bucket
I seem to have got better mash efficiency than I was expecting, aprox 81% giving me a OG of 1057, which is a bit stronger than I was really wanting, and I can't water it down very easyly as its already at the top of the fermenter and I don't have a spare available, oh well such is life, I suppose I'll just have to put up with strong beer!
I went with all the hops in the end, which should help with balencing the strenght.
It might not turn out quite as high as that, as ive taken readings at 80 deg c and corrected them, they don't allways turn out to be the most accurate readings.
I'll get a better idea when I pitch the yeast in the morning (well later this morning) I tend to let it cool overnight rather than rapid cooling.
Time for bed I think,
jonty
I went with all the hops in the end, which should help with balencing the strenght.
It might not turn out quite as high as that, as ive taken readings at 80 deg c and corrected them, they don't allways turn out to be the most accurate readings.
I'll get a better idea when I pitch the yeast in the morning (well later this morning) I tend to let it cool overnight rather than rapid cooling.
Time for bed I think,
jonty
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Barley Water
- Under the Table
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 8:35 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
Well, since you have already brewed it you can take this for what it is worth for your next effort. First of all, if you are looking to make an authentic heffe, you really need to do at least three things:
1. Use pilsner malt for the base malt along with the wheat malt (and maybe some Munich if not doing a decoction mash)
2. Use a proper heffe yeast, WLP300 is very good and ferment about 65F to 68F (this is very important if you want the bananna/clove to come out)
3. Cut down on the hops, you really want about 15 to 20IBU and no hop aroma
I would also drop the irish moss since heffe is traditionally very cloudy but krystal is clear (I think they filter it to get rid of the haze since the heffe yeasts are not floculant).
Having said all that, the beauty of homebrewing is making stuff any way that makes you happy, so go for it. Just for giggles, next time you are at a decent beer store, try buying a bottle of Paulener heffe. If you like it, take my suggestions and your efforts will come out reasonably close to that brand. If on the other hand you don't care for it much, try making what we over here call an American wheat beer (us Yanks just can't resist screwing around with a good thing). In my experience, most people who enjoy barley beer either really love heffe or really hate it (and I am in the former category). Anyhow, I hope your efforts turn out well.
1. Use pilsner malt for the base malt along with the wheat malt (and maybe some Munich if not doing a decoction mash)
2. Use a proper heffe yeast, WLP300 is very good and ferment about 65F to 68F (this is very important if you want the bananna/clove to come out)
3. Cut down on the hops, you really want about 15 to 20IBU and no hop aroma
I would also drop the irish moss since heffe is traditionally very cloudy but krystal is clear (I think they filter it to get rid of the haze since the heffe yeasts are not floculant).
Having said all that, the beauty of homebrewing is making stuff any way that makes you happy, so go for it. Just for giggles, next time you are at a decent beer store, try buying a bottle of Paulener heffe. If you like it, take my suggestions and your efforts will come out reasonably close to that brand. If on the other hand you don't care for it much, try making what we over here call an American wheat beer (us Yanks just can't resist screwing around with a good thing). In my experience, most people who enjoy barley beer either really love heffe or really hate it (and I am in the former category). Anyhow, I hope your efforts turn out well.
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mr bond
Totally agree,all my weizens are bittered to 20 nowadays.schofferhofer is a commercial example that bitters up to this level.Calum wrote:Hope it goes well.
. In my opinion the best one was the one where I was hit around 20 IBU (personal opinion).
And totally agree with all 3 points made by barley water.
The yeast is everything in a weizen.Wyeast 3068 is a ripper.