Tried a TTL for my second all grain a few weeks back and had a few problems - compared to the Silver Dollar Porter which was a resounding success for my first AG.
The main problem was that I only got 18L of wort from a 23L recipe. I obviously stopped sparging too early, but after my first AG which had a 45 min boil I wasn't expecting to lose so much wort to boiling, however, Wheeler's recipe called for a 90 min boil and this reduced the amount of wort considerably - I'm sure I could have collected more from the mash if I'd expected to lose so much to the boil and the hops.
Anyway, since I didn't know this would happen before the boil, I added the regular amount of hops called for by the 23L rcipe.
As you can imagine, the result was a very bitter TTL. And for some reason the fermentation took 7 days compared to the usual 3-4 days I normally get with Safale-04. Not sure if the excessive hops would have caused this?
It's been in the keg now for a couple of weeks and its drinkable, and if nothing else I've learnt a few valuable lessons.
I think I'll go with DaaB's batch sparging method next time - problem is I use the boiler with a grain bag for mashing and boiling so I'll have to find enough pots and kettles to boil up enough water for the second sparge batch.
Anyway, thanks to everyone for your advice and encouragement.
TTL problems
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prodigal2
If you use a FV with a tap on and the grain bag as in Jims method documented in the Brewing techniques pages.
If you only have the one FV free on brew day, clean and sterilise the FV once the boils on the go.
And DaaBs batch sparge calc and pages are plumb bob on
And if you also do the flying starter, you should have a very smooth brewing day 
If you only have the one FV free on brew day, clean and sterilise the FV once the boils on the go.
And DaaBs batch sparge calc and pages are plumb bob on
And if you also do the flying starter, you should have a very smooth brewing day -
prodigal2
I should imagine that if you can insulate the boiler all you need from the elements is to get the mash licour temp correct, then turn off 
But I have never used that method so I will concede to better advice.
Or you could get a coolbox(30L), mash in there and sparge as I sugested with the grainbag fv combo, which is what I do.And considering the weather across europe a coolbox should be picked up for a song(under a tenner).
But I have never used that method so I will concede to better advice.Or you could get a coolbox(30L), mash in there and sparge as I sugested with the grainbag fv combo, which is what I do.And considering the weather across europe a coolbox should be picked up for a song(under a tenner).
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David Edge
Graham Wheeler quotes a very helpful figure: 3kW will evaporate 5 litres per hour and I've found that spot on. If you're using a 10-A kettle element (2.4kW) that gives 4 litres per hour.which had a 45 min boil I wasn't expecting to lose so much wort to boiling,
What was your gravity reading? If there was nothing wrong with your efficiency you could probably have topped back to length and not been far out. Also, if you make beer too strong and add extra hops it will stay in balance and there's no loss. Landlord is an intensely bitter beer.
If nonetheless it is too bitter and you're bottling just leave it a few months until it mellows out.
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David Edge
OK, but as the specific gravity of the runnings drops quite quickly, if you failed to obtain 20% of your extract there's more to it than stopping sparging early.
Remember different authors assume different levels of skill at mashing. Wheeler's early book (Homebrewing) is quite reasonable for the novice in my opinion, but his later book (BYOBRAAH) assumes you get the sort of extract I was achieving after my first 100 brews. So if you try the Landlord again I suggest you use 10-15% more malt.
Remember different authors assume different levels of skill at mashing. Wheeler's early book (Homebrewing) is quite reasonable for the novice in my opinion, but his later book (BYOBRAAH) assumes you get the sort of extract I was achieving after my first 100 brews. So if you try the Landlord again I suggest you use 10-15% more malt.
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David Edge
Les Williams was the CBA's champion brewer in 2005 and she mashes in a grain bag. I don't think she worries about it! No matter what mashing system you use you'll get some variation. My last brown ale was mashed at 68C (measured at the top of the tun) and 71C at the tap. Turned out fine. So long as your mash doesn't get outside the range 63-70C it doesn't matter a great deal, despite what the books and the pundits say.
Many people do heat the mash tun, but I've always got on fine by getting the liquor to strike heat, mixing in the grain and leaving the bucket wrapped in old sleeping bags. Or perhaps you're just using the heater to get to strike...
Many people do heat the mash tun, but I've always got on fine by getting the liquor to strike heat, mixing in the grain and leaving the bucket wrapped in old sleeping bags. Or perhaps you're just using the heater to get to strike...
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oblivious
OK, you've convinced me - I'll try another one in the grain bag and batch sparge this time - it'll save me 50 quid on a mash tun.
Although I'd like to improve the efficiency, so I'll probably try batch sparging this time and use DaaBs calculator for the amount of water used. If I fall short of the target gravity I'll adjust the amount of hops accordingly.
Although I'd like to improve the efficiency, so I'll probably try batch sparging this time and use DaaBs calculator for the amount of water used. If I fall short of the target gravity I'll adjust the amount of hops accordingly.