Fermentation Fridge Heater - Power Rating?

[TempTest]

Thanks for the thoughts - Lots to consider! Though it's usually all of these 'problems' that result in me making it half way and giving up. Hopefully I'll complete this one! I'd *really* rather not have to drill into the fridge (I don't own a drill and would not be confident I could do it without making a mess of the job) and so I'm really hoping I can squeeze the cables through. I'm pretty sure I could get the cables through if I removed the double insulation from the flex but I'm not sure if that's such a good idea...

More thought needed!

[themadhippy]

I'm pretty sure I could get the cables through if I removed the double insulation from the flex but I'm not sure if that's such a good idea

no its not

[Kev888]

Are you trying to preserve the fridge intact (e.g. for warranty), or could you widen the hole or make a new one?

[TempTest]

Well the fridge is new so preserving the warranty would be a bonus but I'm not terribly against widening the hole or making a new one, it's just I'm simply not capable of (safely and reliably) doing either of those things myself! I can get by stuffing cables up a hole but that is probably where my comfort level ends on this one. It'd be one thing to ruin any fridge by bodging it up but another when it's a new fridge I've bought for this purpose...

[Kev888]

That makes sense. It must be an unusually small hole the fridge has, TBH I've not had this problem with other fridges in the past. I suppose you are putting the sensor through before the heater cable, so theres just the diameter of the two flexes to worry about and not the more bulky sensor?

An alternative is to tale the sensor cable out through the door; its not completely ideal but the door seal usually has enough springyness to accommodate a thin wire and yet still allow the door to close.

[BrannigansLove]

I pass all the cables through the door and the seal still seals fine. If you don't want to alter your new fridge, I'd recommend doing the same, you're not losing much heat/cold that way.

[Fil]

I pass all the cables through the door and the seal still seals fine. If you don't want to alter your new fridge, I'd recommend doing the same, you're not losing much heat/cold that way.

which is a further option still, if the gap in the seal bugs you and you dont want to notch the seal, spread some cling film over the face the door seals on where you plan to run the cables (hint close to the hinge), close the door on the cables and using some silicone sealant/frame sealant or decorators caulk or whatever you have in a tube you can squeeze into the gap between the seal and cables.. (the cling film will stop it from sticking to the fridge frame..)

[TempTest]

After a week away I've had the chance to take another look at this... I *think* I might have a plan of squeezing the heater and probe cables through... We'll see. Not sure I'll get the fan in as well but I might see how I get on without (or at least get brewing in the interim!). I bought some 3A flex from Maplin today and thought I'd look at taking the heater apart to see how I'd go about wiring it. At this point I've noticed *another* stumbling block... The heater is IP55 and hence the plastic housing is sealed to the main body. I imagine I might be able to use a knife to cut this open and maybe re-seal it but it's still a pain. So, onto another idea:

Can anybody recommend a 45W (preferred) or 60W heater that is (ideally) 2 core (that is, doesn't use the earth) and can easily have the flex swapped on? It was mentioned earlier in the thread about changing the flex so I assume some heaters are easier to work on than others. Rather than ordering every one I can find and crossing my fingers it'd be good if somebody has a particular model/shop they'd recommend!

Cheers!

[Fil]

As I mentioned 'the one above', and have mislaid the charger for my camera battery, i found a couple of old pics of my fridge, and it appears i used a 3 core flex, I recognise the yellow flex ...

Perhaps it was the 3ft space heater in the keg store or the smaller one in the lean to greenhouse i used a 2 core flex on, or i just identified the redundant earth under the cap??.. these are very similar devices to incandescent light bulbs (un earthed as a rule) the filament just emits Infra red heat not visible light..
Though thats just my rational, im not qualified to give electrical advice..




You can see the sealing gland on the tube heater which is attached to the cap that hides the terminals which is secured by a couple of screws..
are the screws on yours perhaps obscured by stickers or plastic caps?? the caps (if used) should pry off easily with a small screwdriver..

If yours has a sealed lid, moulded on lead etc, you can always snip the lead so its not coiled and fit a junction box to attach a thinner exit flex, a small project box drilled for flex in/out to house a leggo brick connector block, wrapped with insulating tape to keep moisture out and if worried you can seal the flex/lid in place with silicone sealant too..

Oh and Dont do what i did and epoxy a fan to the inner shell - ok for a year or 3 but when the fan dies, its a bit of a headache.. the tape and plastic thingy were supporting the fan while the epoxy (DUMB!!!) cured..