Got a problem I don't understand.
I do a brew, my start hydro reading and my finish reading does not conform to the receipes.
To give an example, I followed GW's book for making up COTLIGH BARN OWL. The start should have read 1045, mine read 1050. The finish should have read 1011, mine read 1018. Thus the ABV was not as strong as it should be.
I know that the readings are only approx, but why is mine so far out. What I am I doing wrong?
This is my fourth brew and I have the same problem throughout.
cheers fellows.
What am I doing wrong`
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guypettigrew
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Re: What am I doing wrong`
This is a bit obvious, but have you checked your hydrometer to make sure it's reading correctly?
Guy
Guy
Re: What am I doing wrong`
Hello, looks like you live just down the (Wroxham) road from me! (Sprowston).
Assuming your hydrometer is good I'd suggest your OG is out because your efficiency is higher than that assumed in the book, not a problem, if you want to hit the correct OG you need to work out what your efficiency is then reduce the grain bill accordingly.
The high FG can be due to 2 things, either the beers not fully fermented out (has the gravity remained the same for at least 3 days) or your mash temperature is higher than it should be, resulting in more unfermentable sugars. So as well as checking your hydrometers accuracy I suggest you also check your thermometer.
Assuming your hydrometer is good I'd suggest your OG is out because your efficiency is higher than that assumed in the book, not a problem, if you want to hit the correct OG you need to work out what your efficiency is then reduce the grain bill accordingly.
The high FG can be due to 2 things, either the beers not fully fermented out (has the gravity remained the same for at least 3 days) or your mash temperature is higher than it should be, resulting in more unfermentable sugars. So as well as checking your hydrometers accuracy I suggest you also check your thermometer.
In or near Norwich? Interested in meeting up monthly to talk and drink beer? PM me for details.
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Spud395
Re: What am I doing wrong`
What Guy said, most read 1.000 in water at 20C, it'll be on the hydrometer.
You should also take your OG and FG readings at 20C
You should also take your OG and FG readings at 20C
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Eric
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Re: What am I doing wrong`
You've got a problem I don't understand. What's the beer like?oldtimer wrote:Got a problem I don't understand.
Without patience, life becomes difficult and the sooner it's finished, the better.
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oldtimer
Re: What am I doing wrong`
ERIC
The beer tastes fine to me, but whadda I know. As long as what I drink begins with " A" I'll drink it.
The beer tastes fine to me, but whadda I know. As long as what I drink begins with " A" I'll drink it.
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oldtimer
Re: What am I doing wrong`
Well I tested my hydro at 20c in plain water and it registered exactly 10.00. So I guess that must be ok. Thats assuming my themometer is not telling lies, but it was not a cheapo one and it's new so I am supposing it's OK.
I batch sparge (cos that's the only way I have been shown). I pitch at 20/22c but I do take my first reading before I pitch. Does that make any differance ?
Like somebody has said, my equipment must be more proffient than GW's book allows for. It's just getting the end reading in comparison that I need to work on ( I think).
But if any one else can tell me differant, I will be pleased to hear from you.
Thanks fella's
I batch sparge (cos that's the only way I have been shown). I pitch at 20/22c but I do take my first reading before I pitch. Does that make any differance ?
Like somebody has said, my equipment must be more proffient than GW's book allows for. It's just getting the end reading in comparison that I need to work on ( I think).
But if any one else can tell me differant, I will be pleased to hear from you.
Thanks fella's
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Eric
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Re: What am I doing wrong`
Then it's time to exercise your taste buds and ask yourself the question, "What can I do better?"oldtimer wrote:ERIC
The beer tastes fine to me, but whadda I know. As long as what I drink begins with " A" I'll drink it.
"Cheers", Eric.
Without patience, life becomes difficult and the sooner it's finished, the better.
Re: What am I doing wrong`
Yes. Your higher than expected OG is a good thing. Just calculate your brewery's efficiency and you'll be able to hit the correct OG each time.oldtimer wrote:Like somebody has said, my equipment must be more proffient than GW's book allows for. It's just getting the end reading in comparison that I need to work on ( I think).
But your FG should be lower than 1018. What yeast are you using?
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guypettigrew
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Re: What am I doing wrong`
So, your gear is OK, your OG is higher than expected, as is your final gravity.
A higher than expected OG is a good thing. Means your mashing, sparging and hop filtering processes are efficient.
You say your final gravity is higher than expected. Can you explain a bit more, please? When do you take your FG reading? Does this gravity stay constant over several days?
Guy
A higher than expected OG is a good thing. Means your mashing, sparging and hop filtering processes are efficient.
You say your final gravity is higher than expected. Can you explain a bit more, please? When do you take your FG reading? Does this gravity stay constant over several days?
Guy
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Bribie
Re: What am I doing wrong`
What temperature are you mashing at? Normal Mash range is between 63 and 69° depending on the style, but just those few degrees can make an incredible difference to the Final Gravity. I'd aim for as close to 65° as possible and see how that turns out.
Also, as said above, the yeast can make a big difference as well. A highly attenuative yeast like Nottingham can really rip through those sugars, while a less attenuative yeast like some of the liquid yeasts will leave more remaining sugars and higher FG. I'd try maybe a middle of the road ale like Wyeast Whitbread and see what happens.
One thing about GW's book is that he doesn't make recommendations about the yeast and leaves it pretty much up to the experience of the individual brewers (otherwise the book would probably turn into a Tome and need constant revised editions as new yeasts come and old ones go, as happens in the liquid yeasts)
Also, as said above, the yeast can make a big difference as well. A highly attenuative yeast like Nottingham can really rip through those sugars, while a less attenuative yeast like some of the liquid yeasts will leave more remaining sugars and higher FG. I'd try maybe a middle of the road ale like Wyeast Whitbread and see what happens.
One thing about GW's book is that he doesn't make recommendations about the yeast and leaves it pretty much up to the experience of the individual brewers (otherwise the book would probably turn into a Tome and need constant revised editions as new yeasts come and old ones go, as happens in the liquid yeasts)
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Swiller
Re: What am I doing wrong`
I have the opposite my efficiency is on the low side but I put it down to sparging at too low a temp, will try 75-79c next time.
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oldtimer
Re: What am I doing wrong`
Ok, thanks for the advice so far. I will try and explain how I do things. This will be for 23ltrs.
I batch sparge with 20ltrs @66c in the first instance (to allow for soak up). I give the mix a good but gentle stir with a paddle and leave for 90mins. My mash tun looses about 2c over this period.
I drain off. I then add another 20ltrs @80c, again giving it a good stir and leaving for about 15mins. drain off into boiler ( about 30ltrs allowing for grain soak up).
Boil up for 75 mins with bitter hops. Add aroma hops and protab and boil up for a further 15 mins. Making 90 mins in all.
Cool to about 20/22c. Take my first reading at this point. Add yeast ( usualy Nottingham as this is what my supplier advocates).
Stand in a fridge that is not connected, but does have a heat pad in the bottom. The temp gauge is set at 20c with a one degree tolerance either way.
Leave to ferment for between 7 and 10 days depending on what the bubbles are like. Take final reading at this point. Check for the next three days. If it remains static then bottle or keg.
To remind you, my last brew started at 1050 instead of 1045 ( according to GW's book) finished at 1018 instead of 1011. Thus the ABV was not as strong as it should have been.
Well thats it!!! what say you fella's, where am I going wrong ???
Keith1664 Another PM sent.
I batch sparge with 20ltrs @66c in the first instance (to allow for soak up). I give the mix a good but gentle stir with a paddle and leave for 90mins. My mash tun looses about 2c over this period.
I drain off. I then add another 20ltrs @80c, again giving it a good stir and leaving for about 15mins. drain off into boiler ( about 30ltrs allowing for grain soak up).
Boil up for 75 mins with bitter hops. Add aroma hops and protab and boil up for a further 15 mins. Making 90 mins in all.
Cool to about 20/22c. Take my first reading at this point. Add yeast ( usualy Nottingham as this is what my supplier advocates).
Stand in a fridge that is not connected, but does have a heat pad in the bottom. The temp gauge is set at 20c with a one degree tolerance either way.
Leave to ferment for between 7 and 10 days depending on what the bubbles are like. Take final reading at this point. Check for the next three days. If it remains static then bottle or keg.
To remind you, my last brew started at 1050 instead of 1045 ( according to GW's book) finished at 1018 instead of 1011. Thus the ABV was not as strong as it should have been.
Well thats it!!! what say you fella's, where am I going wrong ???
Keith1664 Another PM sent.
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guypettigrew
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Re: What am I doing wrong`
Thanks for the detailed information. Very useful, but raises a couple of queries.
First question; you say you "batch sparge with 20ltrs @66c in the first instance". Then you leave for 90 minutes.
Apologies for being pedantic, but do you mean you mash at 66C for 90 minutes? Or do you mean you add 20 litres of 66C water to your grain? I guess you mean you mash at 66C.
Secondly, this seems a lot of mash liquor. A 23 litre beer at 1.050 would need about 5Kg of grain. This amount of grain should only need about 12-13 litres of mash liquor. A very thin mash may give you a good OG, but a higher FG, due to the enzyme action during the mash not being ideal. Not sure, some research needed.
Guy
First question; you say you "batch sparge with 20ltrs @66c in the first instance". Then you leave for 90 minutes.
Apologies for being pedantic, but do you mean you mash at 66C for 90 minutes? Or do you mean you add 20 litres of 66C water to your grain? I guess you mean you mash at 66C.
Secondly, this seems a lot of mash liquor. A 23 litre beer at 1.050 would need about 5Kg of grain. This amount of grain should only need about 12-13 litres of mash liquor. A very thin mash may give you a good OG, but a higher FG, due to the enzyme action during the mash not being ideal. Not sure, some research needed.
Guy