Hi guys,
Thanks for all the help to this point, I have just a couple more questions for completing my first AG.....
The beer is in the FV, has gone down from 1046 to 1013 since last Friday (target FG is 1012). It took off quickly, but I had some issues with temperature and it was slow for a few days. It's been inside and warm for the last 4-5 days and has been bubbling away nicely, still bubbling regularly now as well. When I took the reading yesterday, the beer was drinkable but still quite cloudy so I'd like to be sure I do the right thing before bottling.
1. So, I've read several topics which have got me confused about what to do next - most people say to cool it for a few days to help it clear before bottling, but others say to warm it first, especially with 1968 yeast (which I have used). Which is correct, or do I warm then cool?
2. Am I starting too early - If it's still bubbling away should I just leave it alone for longer?
3. The beer has a slight fizz to it, not what I would describe as carbonation but maybe a little more than from a traditional hand pulled pint. This makes me concerned about whether I should prime a lot/a little/at all. I'm kinda tempted since it's the first one to hedge my bets and prime some and not others. Other than carbonation, is there something else the beer will gain by priming?
Cheers
Post fermentation questions
- soupdragon
- Under the Table
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Re: Post fermentation questions
Hi Brian
I can't comment on liquid yeast's behaviour as up to now I've only used dried but I always leave my beers in primary for 2 weeks even if there's no sign of airlock activity. I don't pretend to fully understand the science or witchcraft behind it but after the main ferment has finished ( 5 ish days ) the yeast will carry on working at a lot slower pace to break down some of the undesirable by products of the ferment. Generally speaking, leaving the beer on the yeast cake for an extra week or so always produces a cleaner tasting beer
Hope that helps?
Cheers Tom
I can't comment on liquid yeast's behaviour as up to now I've only used dried but I always leave my beers in primary for 2 weeks even if there's no sign of airlock activity. I don't pretend to fully understand the science or witchcraft behind it but after the main ferment has finished ( 5 ish days ) the yeast will carry on working at a lot slower pace to break down some of the undesirable by products of the ferment. Generally speaking, leaving the beer on the yeast cake for an extra week or so always produces a cleaner tasting beer

Hope that helps?
Cheers Tom
Re: Post fermentation questions
Hi Brian
As Tom says, it may be better to wait awile yet. I think it may not be finished fermenting fully yet.
One thing you dont want to do is bottle too early. Kaboom.
Just wait until the Fg stops dropping. Theres no rush. You can leave it another few days.
Best to be safe on the 1st one Eh.
I normally ferment for a week then keg it. I then bottle from the keg after a few weeks to a month.
Theres nothing to rush here.
Re the priming. I've been using less and less priming sugar. I only put about 20g in a keg and a tiny amount in bottles.
I always purge the keg and bottles to prevent oxidisation.
As Tom says, it may be better to wait awile yet. I think it may not be finished fermenting fully yet.
One thing you dont want to do is bottle too early. Kaboom.
Just wait until the Fg stops dropping. Theres no rush. You can leave it another few days.
Best to be safe on the 1st one Eh.
I normally ferment for a week then keg it. I then bottle from the keg after a few weeks to a month.
Theres nothing to rush here.
Re the priming. I've been using less and less priming sugar. I only put about 20g in a keg and a tiny amount in bottles.
I always purge the keg and bottles to prevent oxidisation.
The Doghouse Brewery (UK)
Re: Post fermentation questions
Hi Brian
1 - Don't bottle or keg until it reaches FG, 2 identical hydrometer readings 24 hrs apart. Leaving it an extra few days helps the yeast do some additional clearing up of the beer.
2 - some people like to cool before bottling to assist in suspended solids dropping out so the beer clears faster. This is not necessary as it will clear in it's own time but should speed it up
3 - priming sugar is only for carbonation and would not normally add anything else to the beer as far as i'm aware
Rick
1 - Don't bottle or keg until it reaches FG, 2 identical hydrometer readings 24 hrs apart. Leaving it an extra few days helps the yeast do some additional clearing up of the beer.
2 - some people like to cool before bottling to assist in suspended solids dropping out so the beer clears faster. This is not necessary as it will clear in it's own time but should speed it up
3 - priming sugar is only for carbonation and would not normally add anything else to the beer as far as i'm aware
Rick