Imperial Stout Carbonation

[ArmChair]

Ive brewed an imperial stout that has been in the FV almost 2 months.

What would you suggest for carbonation? or do you think it will be ok not priming the bottles?
Im thinking this will mainly go in 330ml bottles, and im going to put 6 in the grolsh style swingtop bottles

[AlphaAcidHouse]

Personally I think about 1.75 is right for an imperial stout. Got one ready for secondary myself, I often have problems with poor attenuation with extra dark stouts, you have the same?

[Blackaddler]

With stronger beers of around 7%+, the yeast will probably have given its all, and priming alone may have little effect.

A tiny amount of fresh yeast may be required in the bottle to give some natural carbonation.

Approx 0.5ml of rehydrated yeast per bottle should do the job.

If priming 40 bottles, 0.5gm of yeast, rehydrated in 20ml of boiled, cooled water should suffice.

[ArmChair]

With stronger beers of around 7%+, the yeast will probably have given its all, and priming alone may have little effect.

A tiny amount of fresh yeast may be required in the bottle to give some natural carbonation.

Approx 0.5ml of rehydrated yeast per bottle should do the job.

If priming 40 bottles, 0.5gm of yeast, rehydrated in 20ml of boiled, cooled water should suffice.

Would you use a full packet of yeast?

[Blackaddler]

With stronger beers of around 7%+, the yeast will probably have given its all, and priming alone may have little effect.

A tiny amount of fresh yeast may be required in the bottle to give some natural carbonation.

Approx 0.5ml of rehydrated yeast per bottle should do the job.

If priming 40 bottles, 0.5gm of yeast, rehydrated in 20ml of boiled, cooled water should suffice.

Would you use a full packet of yeast?

A full 5gms or 11gms...?

I doubt it somehow... 0.5gm should be enough for 40 bottles.

[ArmChair]

I don't have an packet of yeast that's open to use.

I do have some wine works yeast in a plastic tub, would this not alter the flavour?

Also do I just mix it up in a bowl and then syringe 0.5ml in a bottle & add my stout?

[BeerEagle]

I wouldn't use a wine yeast, it will start munching away at the residual sugars in your beer and possibly take it down to a wine-type FG.

= very dry beer and exploding bottles.

There should be enough yeast in the beer to cope with the small amount of priming sugar you'll be needing.

[ArmChair]

There should be enough yeast in the beer to cope with the small amount of priming sugar you'll be needing.

How much sugar would you suggest? I dodnt want it fizzy, but I wouldn't mind a nice pour and little bubbles.
ive got a FV with around 15litres in

[Blackaddler]

How much sugar would you suggest? I dodnt want it fizzy, but I wouldn't mind a nice pour and little bubbles.
ive got a FV with around 15litres in

A quarter to a half teaspoon of sugar per bottle should be sufficient.

[ArmChair]

That sounds about right for what I was thinking, is that a 500ml bottle?

because im going to be using 6 500ml and the rest 330ml, and using dextrose

[6470zzy]

Ive brewed an imperial stout that has been in the FV almost 2 months.

What would you suggest for carbonation? or do you think it will be ok not priming the bottles?
Im thinking this will mainly go in 330ml bottles, and im going to put 6 in the grolsh style swingtop bottles

I suggest that you batch prime rather than fiddle with doing each bottle separately. I don't imagine that the yeast will have exhausted itself ( although I don't think that you mentioned the ABV) so you should not have any problems. If you have any doubts then you can always syphon some of the yeast into your bottling bucket when you transfer it. Have a look at this priming calculator, it should be of assistance to you. I would recommend 1.5 volumes for your stout.

http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php

Cheers

[darkonnis]

Depends on the yeast you use, table sugar is very very fermentable so it'll get eaten up. I did an imperial stout that was 12 - 15% (ish) and I had no problems priming with T-58 after a crash cool. First bottle was carbed up in a few days.

With regards to carbonation levels, it all depends on what you "think" you will need. Old Rasputin which is the worlds highest rated imperial stout has a carbonation of around 3, the idea being that the high carbonation makes it a little less thick on the mouth feel and a lot more drinkable. I'd do different levels in different bottles, or atleast try a few different bottles and see what difference it makes for next time.
Cheers

[AlphaAcidHouse]

Ive brewed an imperial stout that has been in the FV almost 2 months.

What would you suggest for carbonation? or do you think it will be ok not priming the bottles?
Im thinking this will mainly go in 330ml bottles, and im going to put 6 in the grolsh style swingtop bottles

I suggest that you batch prime rather than fiddle with doing each bottle separately. I don't imagine that the yeast will have exhausted itself ( although I don't think that you mentioned the ABV) so you should not have any problems. If you have any doubts then you can always syphon some of the yeast into your bottling bucket when you transfer it. Have a look at this priming calculator, it should be of assistance to you. I would recommend 1.5 volumes for your stout.

http://kotmf.com/tools/prime.php

Cheers

+1 here for batch priming, no need to mess about with every bottle, I put my priming solution in my bottling bucket before adding the beer, as I said earlier for me stout suits a 1.75 volumes. The calculator will give you exact sugar amounts quickly and easily.

I use the brewers friend calculator

http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

[AlphaAcidHouse]

remember, proper carbonation takes 3 weeks.

This video is good

http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

[Nofolkandchance]

With stronger beers of around 7%+, the yeast will probably have given its all, and priming alone may have little effect.

A tiny amount of fresh yeast may be required in the bottle to give some natural carbonation.

Approx 0.5ml of rehydrated yeast per bottle should do the job.

If priming 40 bottles, 0.5gm of yeast, rehydrated in 20ml of boiled, cooled water should suffice.

Haven't as of yet seen a "definitive" post with a success story for using fresh yeast for bottle conditioning bright beer. Please gladly point me in the correct direction otherwise.

Ive got 23 ltrs of 9.5% Belgian golden ale cold conditioning at 1c that is already very bright and I'm away for a fortnight come Friday. I wont get time to do anything for a week thereafter so it's either into a corni, or, experiment time with neutral fresh yeast and sugar in 3 weeks time.

Will be following this post very closely to see what pans out!