Hi Chaps
Just wondering if there is any consensus on crash cooling - how long for, what temperature, any other factors.
Some brief searches have been inconclusive with quite wide variations, so I wondered what views among JBK members were.
Rick
Crash Cooling
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nigelsch
Re: Crash Cooling
I do this as a matter of course now before kegging.
After two weeks I'll drop an ale to around 8-10oc for 3 days in the FV fridge. Certainly drops the yeast and I have
noticed I get much less yeast/stuff in the bottom of a corny keg when its finished.
Ive dropped lower for an ale, and it was certainly cleaner - but don't normally bother as its not really necessary for me.
Just done a kolsch & lagered this @1oc for a couple of weeks - it practically ran clear straight away while kegging.
After two weeks I'll drop an ale to around 8-10oc for 3 days in the FV fridge. Certainly drops the yeast and I have
noticed I get much less yeast/stuff in the bottom of a corny keg when its finished.
Ive dropped lower for an ale, and it was certainly cleaner - but don't normally bother as its not really necessary for me.
Just done a kolsch & lagered this @1oc for a couple of weeks - it practically ran clear straight away while kegging.
Re: Crash Cooling
I usually lower my beer down to as close to 2C as it will go before packaging. I don't think you can call it crash cooling though as it can take a few days to get to 2C (if it ever gets there). But it helps to drop out as much crap as possible.
Do any home brewers actually crash cool? The name implies quick cooling but I don't know if anyone actually has the means to do that - as I said, my fridge takes some time to get that low.
Do any home brewers actually crash cool? The name implies quick cooling but I don't know if anyone actually has the means to do that - as I said, my fridge takes some time to get that low.
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Charles1968
Re: Crash Cooling
If you aren't in a hurry, it's better to steer clear of crash cooling as it drops the yeast out prematurely and can leave flaws like diacetyl, which yeast would remove given enough time.
Crash cooling works by increasing the solubility of CO2. As a result, CO2 bubbles stop rising and lifting yeast cells and other sediments, which therefore drop out. The low temp also slows down yeast metabolism. All this will happen in time without any cooling, with the added bonus that active yeast will clean up after themselves.
Long term cooling (ie lagering) is a different matter and definitely worth doing if you want clearer beer and a cleaner taste.
Crash cooling works by increasing the solubility of CO2. As a result, CO2 bubbles stop rising and lifting yeast cells and other sediments, which therefore drop out. The low temp also slows down yeast metabolism. All this will happen in time without any cooling, with the added bonus that active yeast will clean up after themselves.
Long term cooling (ie lagering) is a different matter and definitely worth doing if you want clearer beer and a cleaner taste.
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Rick_UK
Re: Crash Cooling
Thanks Charles, very insightful and I hadn't thought of it that way before. I suppose finings present the same issues also.
I always assumed the yeast had done all its cleaning up after a week or so of reaching FG and crash cooled on that basis. Now I'm thinking if its worthwhile.
Rick
I always assumed the yeast had done all its cleaning up after a week or so of reaching FG and crash cooled on that basis. Now I'm thinking if its worthwhile.
Rick
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Charles1968
Re: Crash Cooling
It depends what temp you ferment at and and how soon you crash cool. For an ale fermented 18 C or higher for a couple of weeks, there won't be much left for the yeast to do and it's safe to crash cool. For a lager or something fermented cooler, you need to let the fermenter warm up a bit so the yeast can finish off and consume any diacetyl. If you crash before this, you end up with butter-flavoured beer. Some yeasts are worse than others. I tend to ferment lagers 10-12 C and ales 15-18 as I like clean, crisp beers, so I have to watch out for diacetyl.
Same issue with finings, as you say. In my experience, they're pointless unless you're in a hurry or trying to get rid of chill haze. If you fine to remove chill haze, the beer has to be on the point of freezing, otherwise the finings won't catch it.
Cold storage cures most ills. At this time of year you can make fantastic beer with a bit of patience - let the weather do all the work for you. Even without chilling all sediments except chill haze will drop out completely in the bottle or keg. Once the beer is under pressure, bubbles can't rise and any suspended matter will slowly drop.
Same issue with finings, as you say. In my experience, they're pointless unless you're in a hurry or trying to get rid of chill haze. If you fine to remove chill haze, the beer has to be on the point of freezing, otherwise the finings won't catch it.
Cold storage cures most ills. At this time of year you can make fantastic beer with a bit of patience - let the weather do all the work for you. Even without chilling all sediments except chill haze will drop out completely in the bottle or keg. Once the beer is under pressure, bubbles can't rise and any suspended matter will slowly drop.