How important is 'the stand'?

[IHN]

As per the bottom of the instructions here, which I've just noticed:

https://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/boiling.htm

All the extract 'kits' I've used (e.g. the mini mash kits from Malt Miller) have instructions that basically say that, post boil, to just pour the wort into the fermentation barrel, hops'n'all, top up with water to the right volume, yeast (assuming it's at the right temp) and go. No mention of a stand or sieving out the hops.

So, is the stand important? And should the boil hops be sieved out before going into the fermentation bucket?

[IPA]

You should re read the instructions that you highlighted.
It clearly says allow to stand before pouring of the CLEAR wort.

[IHN]

I get that, and I'm not doubting those instructions but, like I say, that's different to the instructions I've had from other places. So, to rephrase my question, how important is it that it's the clear, post-stand, wort that goes in the FB and not the 'whole', 'un-stood', wort?

Actually, also, those instructions talk about a 60-90 minute boil, and any 'extract kit' instructions I've had have a 30 minute boil, which is what I've always done. Should I be boiling longer?

[guypettigrew]

The stand is used when brewing all grain beers to allow the proteins from the wort (the trub) to settle to the bottom of the boiler, together with the hops, before running off the clear wort into the fermenter. Usually all grain brewers will have a hop filter in the boiler. This holds back the hops which then form an effective filter bed to hold back the trub. Note, this is only when using whole hops.

I've just looked at the Cali Common mini mash kit offered by the Malt Miller. It doesn't have much in the way of grains to mash, but the small amount there is goes into the hop sock so can be removed at the end of the mash.

The hops are pelleted, so will break up in the boil.

My understanding is you'd mash the grains in the hop sock for an hour, remove them, bring the wort to the boil and add the pelleted hops as in the instructions. Then tip the hopped wort with the malt extract into the fermenter. Removing the pelleted hops after the boil would be almost impossible.

The instructions call for a 15 Minute stand after the final hop addition. This is to get the aroma and flavour out of the final hop addition.

I've just checked the ESB kit. It uses pelleted hops as well. If all the MM mini mash kits use pelleted hops then there won't be any need to sieve the hops out.

Hops this is helpful.

Guy

[IHN]

Thank Guy, that's very helpful.

If I use whole hops (which I occasionally do), should I add them to the boil in a hop sock and/or sieve them out before the wort goes in the FB?

[guypettigrew]

I'd leave them to stand, as in the MM instructions for the Cali Common, then bail the wort out through a sieve. Sanitised jug and sieve, of course!

This will hold the used hops back and help ensure you get enough oxygen into the wort in the fermenter to get a healthy fermentation going asap.

Guy

[bitter_dave]

Actually, also, those instructions talk about a 60-90 minute boil, and any 'extract kit' instructions I've had have a 30 minute boil, which is what I've always done. Should I be boiling longer?

You don’t need to boil extract for 60+ mins - I haven’t when I’ve used it for recent brews. One reason that extract recipes from books tell you to boil for 60+ mins is that they are adapted from all grain recipes. The main thing to bear in mind if brewing a recipe for a shorter period than advised is that you will need more hops to get the same level of bitterness. Kits advising you to boil for less than an hour will take this into account with their hopping.

[IHN]

Smashing, thanks all.

[k1100t]

Do you have a filter on the inside of your boiler tap...?

[IHN]

I don't have a boiler tap, I have a 12l stockpot from Wilkos. I usually boil about 8l, then move (pour) it into the FB and top up to the full amount.

I wonder about fitting a tap to it though, any recommendations?

[guypettigrew]

If you're only boiling about 8L and mostly using MM mini mash kits then fitting a tap is probably more trouble than it's worth.

Guy

[IHN]

Fair enough.

To be fair, I've not used a MM kit for a while, but it was doing a couple of them that got me away from basic kits and into 'extract with specialty grains' brewing (as I've learned it's called). I now generally work with 'loose' ingredients, but my process is basically the same.

[k1100t]

Personally, I'd be tempted to run it through a sieve in to the FV. There was an article by pro-brewer James Kemp (currently at BrewDog), when he worked for Young's developing their homebrew kits. I think the gist of it was, that while you don't want all the trub from the boiler, some of it is actually beneficial. Only one way to be sure, do two batches, filter one, don't filter the other, see what the difference is.

[IHN]

Yeah, I think running it through a sieve is what I'll do on the future. If nothing else, as has been said, it's an easy way of aerating the wort.

[guypettigrew]

Well, that's two sieve recommendations. Has to be the way to go!

Guy