Strangely attracted to Biab

[boff]

I've done kits for a few years and generally the results have been pretty good.

but recently I have been looking into AG brewing. Not neccesarily because I will produce better beer, but because I want to get more involved with the process and lets face it I like shiny things

Biab seems to be the way to go for me at least so naturally I have read the forums and equally I end up with more questions than answers. So these are my questions a assumptions.

I want a gas powered Fv because I have a 7.5kW burner already and I am not sure I trust my house's electrics
For the FV am I better off making my own or buying one ready made? If I make one I will have to buy the cutters etc so I am not sure I going to save much money what do you think? Also if I make one is there a standard for where the tap is placed (don't fancy syphoning hot liquids) ie how far above the bottom. Or is all the wort usable?

Is it worth paying the extra for a sight tube?

What's the best way of measuring temperature?
Is a 50L pot the best size for a standard 23L batch?
If it is. What is the minimum practical size brew you can make in a 50L vessel?
What other kit do I need that I haven't already thought of?
What question should I have asked but haven't?

Thanks

[jaroporter]

hey, welcome to jim's

when you say FV i think you mean boil kettle/copper. i'd always make it myself. even if you have to buy the tools you got them for the next brewing project. but that's part of the fun for me (and a lot of others on here)..

if you BIAB you never need to siphon hot liquids. mash and boil in the same kettle, cool it down to pitching temperature (also helps precipitate the protein matter - cold break) then transfer to fermenting vessel (FV). if you prefer a tap to the siphon though, you'll want it to reach the bottom of the kettle via a hop filter and run lower than the base on the outside. actual height of the hole is not too important.

easiest way of measuring temperature? stick a thermometer in it.. stir well and take a few readings to get a good idea of temps. or drill a hole for a thermowell.
you could buy a sight tube or just use a stainless rule
you could probably brew ~35-40L comfortably in a 50L kettle. more if you like a little brewday boilover anxiety..
minimum? whatever you feel is worth the effort and gas..

i'd start simple until you find yourself saying "dammit i have to improve this part!". there's loads of different ways of doing everything and all make beer. my BIAB is just an untampered pot on a ringburner. i also have a bigger more complicated electric rig that's a lot less enjoyable to use and still needs improving and adjustments! you can always upgrade as you go..

eirther way good luck and have fun with it

[AdyG]

I can make a 23-25l batch from a 40l electric Buffalo boiler, so 50l would work well. It would enable you to do higher gravity 23l beers with bigger grain bills. With a 40l boiler anything over 6.5% and 23l is in danger of spilling over the top. Also 6-7kg of wet grain is quite heavy, so if you are doing larger BIABs you might want to look at a hoist fixed securely to the ceiling like a lot of the Australian BIABers do on http://biabrewer.info.

Get a tap and a hop strainer to put on the back and go for it! Also a digi thermometer will work fine but I'm considering a dial probe on the side of the boiler, but I'm not going to bother with a sight glass.

Other than that, go for it... you'll never look back!

[boff]

Thanks for the replies. I am still not sure whether to build or buy!
I knew if I asked what the best way of measuring tempurature I might get some obviuos answers. How accurate are the dial type thermometers? and I worry about a permanent fitting such a dial or thermowell because I don't want to snag the bag.

I will be brewing in the garage and I will definetely using the pulley method as I am both weak and lazy.

[AdyG]

I have a digital thermometer off ebay for about £20 and it's pretty accurate. I noticed on Raymond Blancs TV show recently that he uses the same one as me for checking temperatures of meat etc, so I'm assuming it's ok. I was a bit worried about the back of the probe snagging the bag, but wanted to put it low down with the tap and hop strainer, I was hoping this would provide a better temperature guide as the probe goes in the top of the pan, while the hat comes from the bottom!

I think you are going the right route by using gas, probably more controllable and reliable than electric... plus quicker. Have you thought about getting a 50l stainless steel stock pot off one of the ebay sellers with tap and temp gauge fitted? There may not be that much price difference in buying all from the same seller as building your own.

This seller looks pretty good.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/powell3190/m. ... 7675.l2562

When I upgrade I fancy the 100l, going to 3 vessel then though....

[boff]

Just ordered my pot from Bergland. Stand by for stupid questions.

First one: I know this has been asked a million times before. but what would you recommend as my first brew? It doesn't have to be the greatest beer in the world, but I am looking for something fairly straight forward and I think even more importantly easy to analyse in terms of taste so I can make sure I have got the process correct or if not what to do differently the next time, rather than wondering if the nasty taste is due to an obscure malt hop combination

[Bribie]

I'd do a fairly standard Best Bitter along the lines of (for 23L that would give you the same batch size as a kit)

4.5kg Pale Malt e.g. Maris Otter
200g Medium Crystal

Mash 60 mins at 65 degrees

30g Challenger boiled for 60 mins
30g Fuggles chucked in for last 10 mins

S-04 yeast or go for a nice liquid yeast such as Wyeast Ringwood.

[boff]

[quote="Bribie"]I'd do a fairly standard Best Bitter along the lines of (for 23L that would give you the same batch size as a kit)

4.5kg Pale Malt e.g. Maris Otter
200g Medium Crystal

Mash 60 mins at 65 degrees

30g Challenger boiled for 60 mins
30g Fuggles chucked in for last 10 mins

S-04 yeast or go for a nice liquid yeast such as Wyeast Ringwood.[/quote]

Sounds like a plan to me.

OK to get to 23L what starting volume would you suggest and what would you expect the OG to be? Totally subject I am happy with a beer with a moderate %ABV and a good flavour rather than a high %ABV that tastes like carp

[boff]

OK after following the advice here I bought my 50L Bergland pot which was delivered today But one of the handles on the side of the pot has fallen off
I have emailed bergland and they have offered me a €20 reduction if I keep it what do I do?

[masterosouffle]

I would keep it, there should be no reason to move it full, and if you're just moving it to empty hops etc one handle is ample, if you decide not to accept, I might be interested in buying it off you...

[boff]

My pot is now drilled and valve fitted. Drilled it first with a 2mm cobalt drill that went through the SS like a plastic teaspoon through frozen butter. Fortunetely this bit broke so I used a 4mm followed by an 11mm bit both of these did go through the pot like a knife through butter, then used a 21mm Qmax cutter which ia brilliant tapped everything up put 20l of water in it and did a test boil and not leak anywhere arround the hole. So success

The main reason for the post is another vote for Bergland . They have paid the back the €20 that they said they would because of the handle that fell off. They have been prompt throughout order to delivery took less than a week and I always think that the true test of customer service is what happens when something is less than perfect. In this case no quibbling and a reasonable solution for both myself and Bergland.