Carbonation Pressure/Temperature Chart

[PeeBee]

I never leave the gas on either. But in case there are folk who don't care if their gas flitters away; if there is a leak in the beer dispense system the gas cylinder will keep topping the keg up (assuming regulator attached) until the keg is empty of beer!

Is that a bit scarier?

[Kev888]

I agree that theres no need to leave the gas on normally, and topping up frequently/manually can work well to force carbonate. Obviously, budget and availability to homebrewers often dictates less than perfect answers for many of us, or we may just have different priorities, so if a system is prone to leaks then this approach would be well worth considering.

But to raise another perspective, a system doesn't have to be prone to leaks 'if' it has been designed and constructed as such. So if people struggle to be around for topping up during force carbonation, or just don't want the hassle of leaks or contingencies to avoid them, then it isn't a given that leaving the gas on must inherently carry unreasonable risk of its loss.

For example, the chances are very small with a simple sankey keg and coupler in decent condition, I would happily leave that set up pressurised for force carbonating. Whereas a complex system with multiple joins and kegs and/or old corny kegs below their ideal pressure intrinsically carries greater risk, so I would not leave the gas on in that instance.

[f00b4r]

The Buffalo leak detector stuff is really good. Also I think a lot of leaks are caused by people putting shear pressure on their JG fitted lines, the system can test fine but then the person shoves everything in tight and shuts the door of the fridge, putting sideways pressure on the joints and causing leaks.

[PeeBee]

... Also I think a lot of leaks are caused by people putting shear pressure on their JG fitted lines, the system can test fine but then the person shoves everything in tight and shuts the door of the fridge, putting sideways pressure on the joints and causing leaks.

Certainly not wrong! I got rid of most of my JG fittings and replaced them with "finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. They don't leak when applying a bit of sideways (shear) pressure (or just about any sort of twist, push or pull) ... and they are cheaper than JG, made of metal, less bulky, etc. etc. Used with pliable polyurethane pneumatic tubing relieves a lot of the stress too.

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi PB
If you dont mind me asking. What are finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. Any advice very much appreciated.
Regards
Patch

[PeeBee]

Hi PB
If you dont mind me asking. What are finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. Any advice very much appreciated.
Regards
Patch

I've cut & paste this from elsewhere so sorry if it's a bit disjointed:

I use these to couple with Corny threaded disconnects: (Part No.2BJ0407) 1/4" BSPP MALE X 7/16" JIC FEM SW STEEL …
… and I get them from here: https://www.contextpneumatics-catalogue ... town=False

You've then got a 1/4" BSP thread and can attach whatever you like. I use "finger-tight" fittings with 6mm and 8mm polyurethane (from the same site). For example (fitting with flashy "spring-guard" too):

20181030_140025.jpg (24.83 KiB) Viewed 7937 times

Expensive? You do have to get over the P&P (one price however many you order) but once you turn to these you don't go back to hyper-expensive JG fittings (and rigid 3/8" MDPE tubes).

Here's the "finger-tight" connector in the piccie above: https://www.contextpneumatics-catalogue ... town=False

It was the "C2X-6/4-1/4" (6mm tube) one I used but you can get 1/4" BSP to 8mm tube (8/6). And this is just the tip of the iceberg. "KELM Brass Quick-Fit Fittings" seem to list the finger-tight stuff (does not leak!), but there is the push fit stuff here too.

I use MDPE for beer line, and the 3/8" JG stuff too ("push-fit").

Here's some more examples (regulators being used as "spunding" valves):

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi PB
Thanks for that very interesting indeed. Your a gentleman.
Regards
Patch

[Wozboy]

Carbonating pressure v serving pressure.
What pressure are people serving at?
I have a six cornie set up through a gas managment board, mainly lager and cider (i bottle everything else) with two in the kegerator.
I carb up at about 25 psi currently and leave it as long as waiting to go in the kegerator.
Can you over carbonate time wise as well as pressure wise?
KC

I do exactly the same thing, I fill my kegs and tend to give them a blast at 30psi and leave them at room temperature for a couple of weeks then into the kegerator until ready to drink which is dependent on stocks, how long can I leave them alone!! I'll try at 25 psi now though as I may have over carbonated I think in the past,all perfectly drinkable though I might add. I pressurise them at that level mainly to ensure that the keg seals which I've read is around 30psi.

I'm only a beginner to all this carbonation lark but once in the kegerator I tend to leave them all at 10-15 psi as I'm drinking mainly real ales so I don't really want too much carbonation and I'm storing at 12*C. I don't leave the gas attached in case of leaks and randomly give them all a top up if one of my kegs runs flat as I have a gas manifold with all four on it. I think I'm going to move to secondary regulators for all my lines though so that I can vary carbonation levels for different styles.

Not sure if you got any other answers but it's nice to knew somebody is doing more or less the same thing as I am although whether it's right or wrong is another matter!!

[MattGuk]

I might be miss interpreting the chart, however, its looks as though the chart says less pressure is needed at higher temps? I thought it was the other way round?

[Jim]

I might be miss interpreting the chart, however, its looks as though the chart says less pressure is needed at higher temps? I thought it was the other way round?

The chart shows how much CO2 dissolves in the beer. Lower temperature = more CO2 dissolves, higher pressure = more CO2 dissolves.