newbie help please

[McMullan]

I’d be wary of so-called ‘Chemsan’. I haven’t used it, but, when Five Star’s products, including Starsan, stopped being shipped to Europe all manner of claimed alternatives suddenly appeared in home brew shops. The PBW alternatives I tried were absolute shite. Nothing more than the world’s most expensive scentless washing powder. Starsan works against bacteria mainly. Use bleach or iodine solutions for any unwanted yeasts, especially suspected wild ones.

[guypettigrew]

Nitro Jim may have put his finger on it. Rinsing using a shower head may be quick and easy, but who knows what's lurking in the head?

The benefit of no rinse sanitisers is--you don't have to rinse!

As McM says, these sort of sanitisers aren't intended to destroy wild yeasts, or domesticated ones! Phosphoric acid (one of the main active ingredients in Starsan) is used as a yeast wash when harvesting yeast. It gets rid of unwanted bacteria, but leaves the yeast untouched.

However, for all normal circumstances in home brewing, a good spray with Starsan is adequate. 'Normal' means the kit is clean before spraying. Using Starsan on mucky kit is a complete waste of time.

My regime, for what it's worth, is to spray everything with Starsan just before use. Occasionally I dismantle the ball valves and clean them off and soak them in Starsan. And every now and then I soak everything in a hot solution of Sodium Percarbonate to remove any organic build up.

A hugely important way of avoiding infection, though, is to pitch an active starter. The faster fermentation gets going with the yeast of your choice, then the less likely it is that any infection will poison your beer.

Guy

[sparkybrew]

Many thanks McM and Guy,

From now on it will be a clean with oxi, rinse, deep sanitize with bleach solution, then chemsan.

No shower lol.

Chemsan spray for a last minute re sanitze.

Will also hydrate the yeast, maybe grow it a little with some DME.

Next planned brew us the wilko 2 can winter ale

One more week to see what the IPA turned out like, fingers crossed

[sparkybrew]

Evening everyone,

Well tonight I took the plunge and opened one of the suspect IPA's for a taste as bottled for 2weeks now. I was shocked at how the beer had mellowed and was completely different, still a slight aftertaste but so much better. To think this nearly went down the sink.

From here things can only get better, thanks for you patience and advice, cheers

[Nitro Jim]

Evening everyone,

Well tonight I took the plunge and opened one of the suspect IPA's for a taste as bottled for 2weeks now. I was shocked at how the beer had mellowed and was completely different, still a slight aftertaste but so much better. To think this nearly went down the sink.

From here things can only get better, thanks for you patience and advice, cheers

myipa.JPG

If you leave it longer, it will get even better. I opened a bottle of a Thirsty Devil red ale that I bottled almost a year ago the other day and I think it is possibly one of the best kits I have ever made. I went straight down to Wilko and bought another one (and others) to keep me busy during lockdown. Well that and drinking the plentiful supplies I have already bottled!

[GSMunn]

It’s funny, but this takes me back to a coppers IPA I made years ago, tasted utterly revolting (almost vinegary) so I just abandoned it for a few months, tasted great after it had aged a little.

No idea the science behind it but hey, the 22.5l after the first was enjoyable!

[sparkybrew]

Have waited another month and as everyone has said the beer has improved further - thanks everyone

[soupdragon]

Could the issue be more like a tart green apples smell/taste? I've had that a few times when kegging after only one week. Although I don't understand the science myself, I've read that leaving the fermented beer for a second week sitting in the fermenter allows the yeast to "clean things up". The yeast creates all manner of wonderful byproducts during fermentation that give a green apple/acidic flavour and smell to beer but after a second week sitting on the yeast, seemingly doing nothing it clears most of it up leaving you with a better tasting brew.
That's what I've read anyway and to be fair, my own beers tell me that it's right. The fact that your beer now tastes better is a suggestion that could have been the cause of your problems?

Only a thought

Cheers. Tom

P.S. seems more noticeable on one can kits rather than 3kg kits

[Carnot]

Sparky,

Patience is a virtue. One thing I have learned it that one needs to be patient. I like to give my ales at least six weeks prior to drinking and much longer for pils, which are much more sensitive. Two things I would not do. If you have an indirect hot water cylinder your hot water could well contain bacteria, but you cleaning efforts are not wanting as far as I am concerned. I am not a fan of starsan or its clones. They are nothing but phosporic acid and a surfactant (DDBSA). DDBSA is being phased out due to its poor bidegradation credentials. I have multiple ss fermenters and I clean all with either Amphiclen or Trio 100 , both available on eBay. The are caustic -surfactant blends that work well. I finish the process with a solution of sodium percarbonate for 15 mins- a scoop in 5 litres. Rinse in cold water and that is it. Never had a problem with hundreds of brews ( beers, cider, mead).

I would encourage you to be bold and have faith. I keg all of my beers to avoid bottling and rack my beers to a second vessel for conditioning, and then to a keg. The key point is to learn from your mistakes, and you will make mistakes, and move on. Kits are a good place to learn the craft, and then you can expand the envelope.