i don't know about transferring one to a PET now; what with loosing the c02 that will have started to build up, i don't know if you would have to re-prime and then if so, with what quantity
it doesn't really matter if they get shaken about, but if you were intentionally going to invert them or give them a good shake, then the settled yeast would go everywhere, making the beer cloudy again and leaving the sediment pile loosened for when pouring time comes (not as conducive for a clear pint).
Priming
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rootsbrew
Re: Priming
Thanks Simon.
I won't bother transfering then - just have tope it's on the move! Seeing your point about not knowing how much to re-prime, if need be, I think there might be a way. On the RHS of this page http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewin ... mulas.html is a calculator to give current CO2 levels, based on difference in SG, so it should be possible to find out how much sugar's been used up and how much to add... Not trying it now though!
I see what you mean about the shaking. I thought it might have arrested some process but if it's the settling, I'll just have to wait longer if they get really knocked about!
I won't bother transfering then - just have tope it's on the move! Seeing your point about not knowing how much to re-prime, if need be, I think there might be a way. On the RHS of this page http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewin ... mulas.html is a calculator to give current CO2 levels, based on difference in SG, so it should be possible to find out how much sugar's been used up and how much to add... Not trying it now though!
I see what you mean about the shaking. I thought it might have arrested some process but if it's the settling, I'll just have to wait longer if they get really knocked about!
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rootsbrew
Re: Priming
Tried it! Initially, I was really worried - I chose the first bottle I tasted because looked like it was carbonating nicely all week, but was it flat as a pancake! Must have been a dodgy seal or cap.
Next one (primed with sugar) was really quite decent; as was the one primed with black treacle, though there were more signs of unreadiness but there was a noticeable and positive difference to the flavour between the sugar-primed and treacle-primed bottles. In both cases, the bubbles were sufficiently small to give a nice, silky texture.
Using this base kit (Wilko Hoppy Copper), I would recommend others use dark DME, black treacle or similar to prime bottles because it needs more intense flavours. It can also withstand quite a lot of priming. Also, if making it again I would definitely add a lot of dry hops when bulk conditioning (aka 2nd fermenter); there was really very little aroma or bitterness, especially for something advertised as "hoppy" - these characteristics have gone down since bottling.
Overall, I'm pleased with my first attempt in ages - motivated to make more beer!
Next one (primed with sugar) was really quite decent; as was the one primed with black treacle, though there were more signs of unreadiness but there was a noticeable and positive difference to the flavour between the sugar-primed and treacle-primed bottles. In both cases, the bubbles were sufficiently small to give a nice, silky texture.
Using this base kit (Wilko Hoppy Copper), I would recommend others use dark DME, black treacle or similar to prime bottles because it needs more intense flavours. It can also withstand quite a lot of priming. Also, if making it again I would definitely add a lot of dry hops when bulk conditioning (aka 2nd fermenter); there was really very little aroma or bitterness, especially for something advertised as "hoppy" - these characteristics have gone down since bottling.
Overall, I'm pleased with my first attempt in ages - motivated to make more beer!