Iv been reading the other treads about priming but im still slightly confused.
This is my first attempt and im brewing a young's kit larger and i used a BKE instead of sugar.
Whats the best priming method for priming a keg, should i use normal sugar, brewing sugar or a spraymalt mix. Also as i dont have a capper im going to bottle into 2l PET bottles, do i need to add sugar to these if iv primed the keg.
Sorry if you've been asked this loads of times already, anyhelp would be great!
Confusion about priming
-
ade1865
Are you intending to leave the beer in the keg for a while or are you going to transfer straight to bottles? If you're doing a secondary ferment in the keg, I would leave the priming until you put it in the bottles. A good way of doing this is to add the sugar to the beer in a bucket/FV and then transfer from there, that way you get the same amount of sugar in each bottle. As for what you use to prime with, for a lager I guess [because I've never made one] that brewing sugar would be fine, even Tate and Lyle can be used no problem, or light spraymalt, its up to you. Prob best to keep it simple tho, so maybe use brewing sugar if u have it, if not just ordinary will do. dissolve it in boiled water and wait for the temp to drop before adding to your spare bucket, and add the beer and transfer to bottles.
As to how much, that depends on how fizzy you want it
As to how much, that depends on how fizzy you want it
-
finnfb
I was planning to transfer from the FV to the keg for conditioning and then bottle after 4weeks or so as occording to the instuctions.Are you intending to leave the beer in the keg for a while or are you going to transfer straight to bottles?
Is the conditioning the same as secondary fermentation?
Thanks for your help
-
ade1865
heh, very good question my good man. I've never partaken of the secondary myself, I've never quite understood what the point is. I think its to let more of the yeast settle out of suspension to make for a clearer beer. If I'm right and you want to prime your bottles, then you may find that there is not enough yeast left in the beer to do the job. I could well be wrong though.
So in answer to your question, afaik conditioning and secondary are two different processes. Conditioning is where we all sit around with growing impatience waiting for the beer to reach peak maturity and flavour, usually about a week per 10 degrees of OG. So for a 1040 OG it should reach maturity in 4 weeks from the time fermentation ceased.
When I last bottled in 2L PETs i just went straight from FV to bottles without secondary,a nd apart from having to be careful when pouring the beer to keep the yeast at the bottom of the bottle it all cleared up fine. others may provide more expert advice.
So in answer to your question, afaik conditioning and secondary are two different processes. Conditioning is where we all sit around with growing impatience waiting for the beer to reach peak maturity and flavour, usually about a week per 10 degrees of OG. So for a 1040 OG it should reach maturity in 4 weeks from the time fermentation ceased.
When I last bottled in 2L PETs i just went straight from FV to bottles without secondary,a nd apart from having to be careful when pouring the beer to keep the yeast at the bottom of the bottle it all cleared up fine. others may provide more expert advice.