Comments on these Brupack kits
Comments on these Brupack kits
Hi guys these kits require no boiling. Has anyone used these kits?
http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/admin/cata ... e=0&page=1
Also the additives at the bottom, im guessing spray malt is probably the usual people would pick but i notice LME is there too....would it make much difference?
Thanks
http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/admin/cata ... e=0&page=1
Also the additives at the bottom, im guessing spray malt is probably the usual people would pick but i notice LME is there too....would it make much difference?
Thanks
I don't know the methods or instructions for the kit you have or are looking at, but.
The reason for non boil kits are that the wort has been boiled at the production plant and useually has hop oil added.
You'd need to boil if you are doing hop additions or steeping speciality grains.
Normally what happens in a kit like that is you boil 1 gallon of water.
Add the malt to met it and help mix with the additional water. and kill any nasties in it.
Then you had 4 gallons of cool water.
That gives a nice pitching temperature for the yeast. (Room temperature)
If you put the yeast in 5 gallon of cold tap water. 10 to 15c then that will be to cold, you'll shock the yeast and it won't start fermentation until it warms.
The reason for non boil kits are that the wort has been boiled at the production plant and useually has hop oil added.
You'd need to boil if you are doing hop additions or steeping speciality grains.
Normally what happens in a kit like that is you boil 1 gallon of water.
Add the malt to met it and help mix with the additional water. and kill any nasties in it.
Then you had 4 gallons of cool water.
That gives a nice pitching temperature for the yeast. (Room temperature)
If you put the yeast in 5 gallon of cold tap water. 10 to 15c then that will be to cold, you'll shock the yeast and it won't start fermentation until it warms.
Basically yes. Follow the instructions.Hoppkins wrote:So basically the stuff out the can is mixed with boiling water and added to a load of cold water and the resulting tempereture is suitable for the yeast?
I think im going to go with a Woodfordes kit (Nelsons) and for the 2nd one IRON BARK, the australian dark ale
The Woodfordes kit I did was really nice. A full malt kit, no sugar. That's the way to go.
That's how I've always made my kits up, about 4 pints of boiling water mixed with the kit and the sugar/malt, then topped up to 5 gal with cold. Final temperature should be okay for pitching the yeast.Hoppkins wrote:So basically the stuff out the can is mixed with boiling water and added to a load of cold water and the resulting tempereture is suitable for the yeast?
Makes no difference at all. I stock both, as the main downside with LME is that if you can't use the whole can what will you do with the rest? Whereas the DME lasts a long time and you can weigh out what you need and easily store the rest for next time.sparky Paul wrote:Would you say that LME usually gives a better result than DME? Or does it depend on the type of brew?
Thanks for that. So there's no difference to the end result?newkie wrote:Makes no difference at all. I stock both, as the main downside with LME is that if you can't use the whole can what will you do with the rest? Whereas the DME lasts a long time and you can weigh out what you need and easily store the rest for next time.
...as DME is easier to handle and a little cheaper, it seems a no brainer...
