Post
by jasonaustin » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:21 pm
I now use corny kegs, but used King Kegs successfully for about 10 years. Here are a few thoughts based on my experience with them.
1. Unless the pressure in the keg is only enough to dispense with, a certain amount of frothing will always occur. Ideally beer should be dispensed at 0 psi - that is the pressure at the tap. With corny kegs people have the opportunity to use lengths of beer line that, due to resistance, will drop the pressure between the storage vessel and the tap, minimising frothing. With KKs (and other budget barrels) there is virtually no distance between the tap valve and the tap opening - hence the beer hitting the glass is at a similar pressure to in the keg itself. With even a reasonably carbonated beer this will cause frothing. It is possible to fix beer line to the tap and then to a secondary tap to help with this.
2. I never primed my beer, instead relying on the slow fermentables (dextrins) in the beer to continually add gas to the keg. A good full-mash recipe will contain these dextrins (a kit may not). This works so long as you only draw small amounts at a time (eg, couple of pints 3 times a week?). Any more than this and there is not enough time to replace the gas. The drawback with priming is that because it is based on fast fermenting sugars, the beer will initially become very well primed, causing lots of froth, but then become flat again very quickly, requiring an external injection of gas to continue to draw beer from the keg. If you do prime, I think I would be tempted to reduce the amount of priming sugars so that they were just enough to give the beer condition but not so much as to make the first 5 pints 90% froth, and then slowly top up the gas for dispense only (as below).
3. Learn to prefer low carbonated beer. If you don't prime and then when the gas eventually does die out (which it will when the slow fermentables have been exhausted) you only top up with gas to a pressure sufficient enough to dispense with only, then you won't get much frothing. You won't necessarily get much of a head, but then 'real ale' doesn't usually have a head anyway. I used a Widget gas system. As soon as I noticed a slight drop in the dispense pressure I would start to give the keg a small squirt after each pint was drawn. This was enough to keep the keg topped up right to the last pint.
4. I had some problems with top tap kegs. The floats never seemed to be particularly stable, often flipping over or bouncing around as you dispensed. This invariably caused some of the head gas to come out of the tap, causing frothing as well as using up valuable dispense pressure. I much preferred the bottom tap kegs.
5. Remove sparklers from sparkler taps. The flip-top sparkler taps are 100% better than the standard drum types, but the sparkler is going to knock gas out of the beer and cause excessive froth. All that I have seen, you can unscrew the sparkler attachment.
Of course, if the keg is leaking gas, then all of the above is worthless. A keg spanner is a worthwhile investment to ensure a good gas-tight lid.
HTH