Post
by rootsbrew » Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:58 am
What restrictions exist on
A. Brew length/volume?
- the standard kit suggests making the wort up to 22.5 litres.
- clearly, wort volume has a massive impact on ABV - one could brew the shortest that the yeast would be able to ferment dry and only end up with 10 litres of beer (and 2 of trub!)
B. Amount and cost of ingredients (excluding aromatics)
- 1 two-can kit plus 2 kg DME, would make rocket fuel but is probably not in the spirit of what was proposed.
- Is LME considered another kit or can one only add DME (and sugar)?
- can more than 1 kit be used? I see one suggestion of using 2 x Coopers stout - and then brewing short!
- Essentially, what's the maximum amount of sugar permitted, in whatever form (DME/LME/kit/detrose/etc.)?
Just re-read top post. I thought it was an open challenge. Advice seems to be requested...
I guess tips might include:
* Make the kind of beer:
(a) that you would like to drink (e.g. don't make a turbo stout if you don't think you'll enjoy it!),
(b) whose flavours can tollerate being a bit/lot stronger than the base kit anticipates,
(c) that still tastes acceptable if it doesn't go "dry" and ends up having some residual sugar at the end.
* Try to work out the maximum ABV and acidity of what you're planning to make (BTW, 17g/litre glucose is equivalent to approx 1% ABV, when fully converted). You need to ensure yeast can tollerate these levels.
* Yeast, yeast, yeast: make sure the one you use is going to produce the flavours you're looking for, flocculates sufficiently to your liking and ** can tollerate the alcohol level you desire **. Your comment says high attenuation - a lager yeast should work, so long as the one you use isn't likely to do odd things at slighly higher (ale) temperatures.
* Reserve 1 litre of yeast-free wort (~5% initial volume) in an air-tight container, in the fridge, to rack on to, as the priming solution - you'll be using the same strength and taste.
* A really good yeast starter is very important for high SG beers. A combination of the physical density, eventual acidity and final alcohol mean it might be harder for the yeast to work properly.
* The yeast is most likely to digest all available sugar if (a) fermentation stays at a steady temp, (b) temp is approx 18°C (for ale). However, more sugar takes longer to ferment and lower temperatures also mean slower metabolism. You will need to be patient - try 4 weeks in the primary, with no secondary, then rack on to priming solution.
* Bottles can tollerate higher pressure than a basic barrel (one without separate CO2 cannister), so if there's a lot of residual sugar at the four week mark, it might be safer to bottle (just make sure they don't have any weaknesses!).
* Oh, and seeing as this brew will probably cost more than a basic kit, make sure your liquor (water) is up to scratch.
Good luck!
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