bottling ????

[ianc]

Hi All
I brew kits in a fermentation bin then decant into another one before bottling, I bottle into sterilise bottles with carbonation drops using a jug and funnel to bottle, is this the best method or is there a better way of bottling please,,
Many thanks al
ps I use the bottles so I can cool before drinking

[aamcle]

Add a sugar solution to the bottling bucket.

Look up bulk priming

Aamcle

[Jim]

As above. Also get a bottling stick - it saves hours of time over using a jug & funnel.

[Rookie]

As above. Also get a bottling stick - it saves hours of time over using a jug & funnel.

A jug and a funnel are likely to introduce oxygen that you don't want.

[MashBag]

After many years this is the easiest and quickest way for me.

Get a racking cane and put a party tap on the other end of the hose. 10 inches of gas hose in the party tap gets you a bottom fill beer gun.

Don't bother with a secondary bucket.

Dose the bottles with a zevro sugar dispenser. But carbonation drops work too.

Bottling takes no time at all. All done in under one hour and its a low oxygen transfer.

Quicker still if you hand cap, with the bottles still in the crate.

[IPA]

For the best results (there is no easy way to brew good beer) Ferment in one.bucket. After about seven days transfer to another and leave until the anticipated final gravity is reached. On bottling day transfer to another bucket and prime with a sugar solution. Then bottle using a bottling stick. All of the buckets should be fitted with a tap. Transfers shoud be done using silicone hose attached to the tap and reaches to the bottom of the recipient bucket.

[MashBag]

I used to do that. I saw no difference.

Results are in from a few fellow brewers that bottling straight from the kettle is not detrimental.

So all we know is "best beer" does not equal longest or most faff or easiest or fastest bottling method.
Everyone finds their way.
Nor it seems, does best beer come from the quantity of the stainless in the process

[IPA]

I agree with you about stainless vessels. I have two conical ss fermenters that I never use. I prefer plastic. Much easier to handle and clean. However if you want to brew bright beer with no visible sediment in the bottle it is impossible to do that following your method. The best you can hope for is a bottle of beer with yeast and trub clinging tenaciosly to the bottom and the ability to pour it without disturbing that deposit. My customers often ask why is there no deposit in my bottles when commercial bottle conditioned beer does have a deposit.

[MashBag]

A wee deposit enables you to show off your highly practised poring skills

[Jim2]

[quote=IPA post_id=863638 time=1657385920 user_id=9129]
Ferment in one.bucket. After about seven days transfer to another and leave until the anticipated final gravity is reached
[/quote]

Why not just leave in the same bucket for longer?

[MashBag]

It is a reductive method. Removing the trub by successive rackings and rests. Gravity.

I have for many years racked (transferred) 3 times
Kettle > fermentation
Fermentation > cold crash
Cold crash > bottle

It works.

I have more recently tried 0 racking. Mash, boil, brew & bottle.. Imo not enough.
It didn't work well enough (both clarity & taste).

I now use just 1 racking. Kettle > fermentor then bottle from there.

[oldbloke]

I siphon from primary to bottles. So i prime the bottles, but with ordinary sugar - actually more reliable than carb drops and cheaper.
A bottling wand on the end of the siphon gets you an auto cutoff when moving between bottles, well worth it.
I have a tap in the siphon line too in case any emergency action is needed.

[aamcle]

Primary then cold crash then into a bottling bucket (bulk prime) then to bottles using a bottling wand.
The extra transfer is not usualy needed.

[WalesAles]

A wee deposit enables you to show off your highly practised poring skills

Mash,
What are you looking at then?

WA