If you have one, use a centre punch to make a tiny dent, then the drill bit shouldn't slip. Another tip, is to stick a piece of thick tape over the drilling area first, to protect it.
Use a small drill bit to start with, 1.5mm - 2mm, and set the drill to the slowest speed. If your bit isn't sharp, it'll take longer, but go fairly slowly, even if it is. Take care with the smallest bits, as it's easier to snap them when you're applying pressure.
Use only as much pressure as is required to start cutting into the s/s. When it gets hot, stop and lubricate the bit and drilling hole area. I use a small squirt of WD40 equivalent as a lubricant. A blob of oil would do.
If the bit gets very hot to the touch, give it a rest till it cools.
There's a bit of a knack to it, so don't try to rush it. Once you've drilled your pilot hole, and you need to increase the size of the hole, it's often easier to increase it in small increments, a couple of mm at a time.
Stainless thermobox
- Blackaddler
- Under the Table
- Posts: 1326
- Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:28 am
- Location: Addlestein, Surrey
Re: Stainless thermobox
Have a look at how I did it. To complete it I purchased a false bottom from The Malt Miller. Expensive, but considering how much effort I put into my pot I wanted something nigh on perfect.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53539
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53539
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- Telling imaginary friend stories
- Posts: 5229
- Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:49 pm
- Location: Cowley, Oxford
Re: Stainless thermobox
@froggi sorry for hijackin the thread...
@blackaddler - cheers, so i do feather the trigger to a slow speed .. hmm,
punch n tape noted.. and i have set of small carbide drill bits to start off and a tungston stepper for increasing to qmax bolt diameter. I think an evening on utube should help instruct me.
@Chastuck, Beautiful and inspiring work..
A very elegant solution to squeezing the bottom drain plumbing within the insulation level..
@blackaddler - cheers, so i do feather the trigger to a slow speed .. hmm,
punch n tape noted.. and i have set of small carbide drill bits to start off and a tungston stepper for increasing to qmax bolt diameter. I think an evening on utube should help instruct me.
@Chastuck, Beautiful and inspiring work..
A very elegant solution to squeezing the bottom drain plumbing within the insulation level..
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate

Re: Stainless thermobox
Fil no worries.... Everyday's a school day and we all learn from one another doowd... Keep us updated marra
Re: Stainless thermobox
I have the 100L boiler and the 60L thermopot for mashing with a false bottom. Only advice if making false bottom is to not make schoolboy error of putting drain hole in middle of pot but to do it close to edge so that when you want to get final run off you can tip it and drain the last dregs out. I have a nearly flush fitting yacht drain hole and it leaves a couple of litres in the bottom 

Re: Stainless thermobox
That's because you didn't dish the inside bottom of the thermopot. You should also grind down the skin fitting and cut 4 radial slots in it. Mine works a treat.Capper20 wrote:I have the 100L boiler and the 60L thermopot for mashing with a false bottom. Only advice if making false bottom is to not make schoolboy error of putting drain hole in middle of pot but to do it close to edge so that when you want to get final run off you can tip it and drain the last dregs out. I have a nearly flush fitting yacht drain hole and it leaves a couple of litres in the bottom