SESTOS pid problem

[djbadger]

I have built a SESTOS D1S VR 220 to control my HLT and have twice now had it shut down on me completely. The first time I assumed something had blown and checked the fuse. Trying it a few days later it worked again. Now I have given it another try it has just done the same thing - lights off total shut down and won't come back on after an hour.

Anyone had a similar problem?

[Fil]

can you post any pics of your wiring? sounds like it could be shorting out?
what if any options have you changed from default?

i used the sestos sheet to wire mine up but the auber manual
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2 ... %201.6.pdf
for more valuable info, it mirrors the sestos funtionality pretty closely, but do check the sestos sheet for the actual parameters and settings..

[stu-le-brew]

I have built a SESTOS D1S VR 220 to control my HLT and have twice now had it shut down on me completely. The first time I assumed something had blown and checked the fuse. Trying it a few days later it worked again. Now I have given it another try it has just done the same thing - lights off total shut down and won't come back on after an hour.

Anyone had a similar problem?

My mark 1 HLT controller died caused by over heating, it melted the case and part of the SSR. You do not say if you are using it to control an SSR but I would check how hot things are when it shuts off. I would recommend a large heat-sink for the SSR, I now use a metal case which further helps with heat dissipation, I have seen here on this forum some people using a fan as well

[Belter]

Loose neutral?

[djbadger]

Thanks for feedback. Wiring looks good to me, no loose wires or burning smells. Yes I do have a SSR, which doesn't seem to get especially hot to the touch but its not ventilated in any way and its all contained in an open-backed wooden box knocked up from off cuts. Would an overheating SSR cause the display on the PID to suddenly switch off?

Fil - I have the Auberon manual now, its a bit easier to understand than the Sestos. However neither of them mention why the controller shoudl shut down like this. WIll have another go this evening and see if its come back to life this time.

[Fil]

fyi i measured the temp of the 2nd vane down on the heatsink on my ssr powering 3kw of element and it peaked at 65C in the open air. so yes it may be a case of overheating inside a closed space....

[djbadger]

OK, I'll come clean... this time it was the fuse Its up and running now with a new 13A in the plug.

Useful to know about the heat sink though and thanks for the photo Fil. My boiler is only 1800W but I guess the SSR will still get hot. Its a Lidl boiler that packed up now working again with a hob scavenged from an electric cooker as heater. I'm working on an idea to incorporate a false bottom to keep the mash above the floor and do step mashes by recirculating using the boiler to heat the wort and the PID to control the heat on/off. Hoping that the FB will prevent scorching of the grain and the relatively low power under the floor won't burn the wort.

Thanks for your help
Cheers

[stu-le-brew]

Hi Giles, attached pictures may help you visualise how to use heatsink for the SSR, it gets hottest when its switching a lot i.e. as it approaching target temperature



Good luck

[djbadger]

That's really helpful Stu - looks a bit tidier than mine too!
I'm inspired to rebuild it. Thanks.

[stu-le-brew]

my pleasure, its a really useful part of my set-up, just finished brewing an IPA this morning, of course using the controller for the HLT

I can't remember where I got the case from but it was probably Maplins hope that helps too