Probelme drilling stainless question

[Fil]

Might also be worth while getting a big nail/screw and punching thru the thin formed dome you have made, i found enlarging a punched thru hole a LOT easier than breaking the skin with a drill bit.

fyi i 1st used a modern robyi? 18V combo drill which let me drill so slowley i could just about count the revs, resulting in snapping all the tiney bits and forming a dome with the 3-4mm bit i ended up using cos all the smaller ones went snap. Being a novice i took all the work hardening warnings to heart .. and drilled as slow as i cld!

2nd time round i used a mains 400w or 450w bosh drill with a 3 or 4mm jobber bit made a point to drill with a sharp punch with intentions of pulsing the trigger as i suggested and was thru in 1 or 2 pulses..

[Heron1952]

Cut a large lump of 4x2 as a backer across the pot. Then make the pilot hole with a steel punch. Hit it hard and I mean make a hole with the punch. Then drill out step by step.

[alix101]

I find my battery drill is the easiest and mostly effective, mains drills are generally to fast. Mind it is a decent dewalt it has the torque and controll you need and it's not heavy...
I would also recommend a cone cutter for holes up to 32mm they fly through with some loob, and your not worrying about work hardening as it cuts from the inside out.
Once you harden stainless your in for a world of torment.

[scotia]

If ye are all having the same problem drilling stainless try using for a pilot a cobalt 4mm drill and by applying slight pressire drilling onto masking tape this can help in stopping the drill dance over yer nice shiny pot.then bore out to 6mm cobalt again. By doing this there is less likelihood on breaking the pilot drill in the holesaw as I am sure you all well know when piercing with a holesaw the saw teeth can bite and break the drill. Do not try and drill on a continuous slow speed instead press the trigger not allowing the drill to reach full speed then release allowing the drill to slow down but not stopping then repeat untill the hole is complete. Take away the myth that there is no magical science in drilling stainless.

[Belter]

Mine are super cheap eBay ones. They chew through stainless in no time. I use a battery drill but it's an 18v Makita.

[oakwell]

i use a 3mm tile / glass drill (spade end type) to make a small hole and it's then fairly easy to open it up using a pilot drill. I've successfully used this method
several times on the bergland pots.

[jmc]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll report back on progress.
Cheers John

[jmc]

Double post

[jmc]

Thanks again for your suggestions.
I fitted wood brace behind hole then used same mains drill, set it a bit faster and pulsed with same 3mm cobalt drill. It went through in about 4 pulses of a few secs. Sprayed wd40 in between. Oil did smoke.
Followed with 4mm and 11mm cobalt drill very quickly. Tap hole then made with qmax.

Cheers. John

[Fil]

Thanks again for your suggestions.
I fitted wood brace behind hole then used same mains drill, set it a bit faster and pulsed with same 3mm cobalt drill. It went through in about 4 pulses of a few secs. Sprayed wd40 in between. Oil did smoke.
Followed with 4mm and 11mm cobalt drill very quickly. Tap hole then made with qmax.

Cheers. John

good 2 hear...

[buckfast]

Just thought I'd chip in -

I'll be converting my 100l boiler and HLT to electric in the next month or so. My plan is to use these. http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/metric-meta ... ters-c3487
Hope its of some use to you all.

Geoff.

[jmc]

For third whole I had same problem with initial 3mm drill. After 5mins I gave up and used nail punch to make initial hole (against wooden brace). It punched ~2-3mm hole very easily and then 4mm cobalt drill had edge to cut against. 10mm cobalt very easy then qmax. Job done. Had 1st brew with new 70L boiler on Sunday