stainless steel tank connectors?

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beerbeerbeer

stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by beerbeerbeer » Sun Apr 06, 2014 1:05 pm

Hi all
does anyone know where to get stainless steel tank connectors and other bits? Thinking of replacing brass fittings...
Cheers
Tim

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Jim
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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by Jim » Sun Apr 06, 2014 1:39 pm

Is this for a boiler?

I understood SS v brass was only critical if the beer was in long-term contact with the vessel (e.g. fermenters and kegs).
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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by beerbeerbeer » Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:08 pm

Hi Jim
Its for all vessels, incl fermenter. anyone got suggestions for fittings..?
Cheers
Tim

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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by beerbeerbeer » Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:02 pm

Ok so I've found stainless steel through hull fittings - anyone using these on their fv?. Are camlocks the best approach for hose disconnects?

Is there anyone here who could shed some light on fittings available and where to buy..?

kwazulu

Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by kwazulu » Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:16 pm

I bought a weldless tap kit from Angelhomebrew a few weeks back for my boil kettle. Good quality, easy to fit.

Fil
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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by Fil » Tue Apr 08, 2014 2:07 am

http://www.bes.co.uk/products/165a.asp or ebay for SS pipe fittings, 1/2" bsp is a compatable size with holes cut for 15mmcompression fittings.

i use 1/2" hex nipples, M20 SS washers, ptfe tape and on occasion silicone baking sheet for diy soft washers.

u cant use too much ptfe tape ;)

First screw the inside fitting, locknut or other Female fitting onto the hex nipple to gauge the number of packing washers needed if any, the hex nipples have tapered threads so the Female fitting will only screw so far onto the nipple.

using a 1/2" hex nipple wrap the end u want to fit thru a 20mm hole with a load of ptfe including the base of the thread.
u should apply enough to make you need to screw/push on an m20 ss washer to butt up against the hex part of the fitting.

using a diy silicone washer cut from baking sheet ( food and temp safe material) u can stick the silicone washer on the inside or outside ;) thread the hex nipple n washer thru the pot hole, probably need a lil screw in too..




pack with the number of washer u determined necessary earlier and tighten to seal ;)

Last one i did i couldnt find my cut up baking sheet so i just used more ptfe tape this time i wrapped it around the edge of the SS washer i had forced onto the ptfe wrapped nipple, wrapping tightly the overlap folds against the washer face.. so ensur most of the overlap falls on the face being pinched up agaist the pot wall and it will form a nice heat and foodsafe seal on its own :)

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all used for the seal was a fair amount of ptfe tape 1 x hex nipple 2 x ss m20 washers, and a SS street elbow for the inside fitting for the internal syphon and hop filter

ps as i helped kwazulu cut the holes and fit his tap n elements, the angelbrew kit needed just the single fitting to get a simple tight seal, my way invariably needs pulling and wrapping more tape at least once due to a wee leak.. the pic posted of the pot outside was before i undid and re-wrapped with more tape round the outside washer edge.. cos i had a wee leak..
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barneey
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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by barneey » Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:17 pm

My recommendation would be to PM MrLard or visit his site http://www.homebrewbuilder.co.uk/
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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by beerbeerbeer » Tue Apr 08, 2014 1:42 pm

Cheers for all those responses. its all much clearer to me now! I really appreciate the help :-)

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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by alix101 » Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:50 am

"Everybody should belive in something : and I belive I'll have another drink".

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Re: stainless steel tank connectors?

Post by Frothy » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:02 pm

A few people use Skin fittings / through hull fittings from these guys
http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/thr ... n-fittings

316 marine grade is the same as food grade.
Only -ve is that you won't be able to connect anything to the back side as they are smoothe

They also work well with a brass flanged nut on the front to spread the load :) as the stainless ones tend not to be flanged

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