Which brew lines

[eddieb13]

Hi

I'm new to the brewing world and I'm looking for some advice.

I've just moved house and I want to install a kegging system and tap to accompany my full gain brewery. The brewery and kegging system will be housed in the cellar and I want the tap to be housed in the living room up above. There will be a 30 foot run from where the cornelius kegs will be stored to where the tap will be housed with a 5 foot elevation.

I'm fairly happy happy with the system I plan to install, which will be 2 x Co2 tanks feeding 2 x cornelius kegs that will go through a flash cooler (I do not want a Kegerator due to space restrictions) and finally going through 30 feet of 3/8" ID pipe to the taps.

My concerns are the 30 feet of piping. Can someone tell me if I'm using the correct sized piping. After extensive research online I've come to the following conclusions:

Using carbonation calculator, the carbonation guidelines for British style ales I need to have 2 volume.
If I have the cooler set at 40 Fahrenheit then I need to set my Co2 regulator at 6.8 psi.

Using the beer line length formula I've come to the following:

L = (P -(H x .5) – 1 ) / R

L = (6.8-(5 x .5)-1 ) / .11 (.11 is based on a 3/8" pipe. I tried the other sized but nothing else could get me to 30 foot)

L = 30 feet of beer line

Are my calculation right and is there anything obvious that I'm missing?

Any advise would be helpful.

[Fil]

Why 2 x gas bottles and regulators? if the beer is the same condition in the 2 kegs simply use a T or Y fitting to branch off from the bottle, and if you want 2 distinct styles with different condition levels supply the first keg with the higher pressure and fit a secondary regulator off that primary feed to reduce the pressure to the second keg.

Using carbonation calculator, the carbonation guidelines for British style ales I need to have 2 volume.
If I have the cooler set at 40 Fahrenheit then I need to set my Co2 regulator at 6.8 psi.

Where to start .. forgive me if i whittter on..
if using a kegging chart like https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 7178,d.ZG4
its relevannt when using the storage temp and pressure for the keg. the short time exposed to a chiller temp of target will not be sufficient to instantly condition the beer, and the pressure within the chiller coils will be nominally lower than that in the keg.

you are better of using the celler temp as the guide for the chart as that is the storage temp of the keg, adding and manitaining condition under pressure is not an instant on/off thing. to add condition the beer has to absorb co2 which it will do faster when the difference between its current state and its target state wuth a pressure and temp is wide but as the gap narrows so does the exchange or absorption of the co2

also not many maxi shelf chillers have the ability to set a specific temp, they tend to work by maintaining an ice wall in the waterbath which acts as a cold store which can buffer pint after pint pouring durring a rush hour in a busy bar.

if your cellar is at 11-13c most of the time, why use any chilling at all ?

imho the 5 ft head and 30 ft distance are no problem, the key to serving without a foam out with temp and pressure sorted is reducing the pressure at the tap to a a nominal difference above normal atmospheric pressure. its a big change in beer status that stimulates a foam out temperature for example cold beer into a warm glass will foam, just the same a big drop in pressure at the tap will also foam, use a flow control tap with low conditioned beers, but for a lager style hi conditioned beer i think yiou would be better off with a length of microline 3/16" inline somewhere.

By all means us a kegging chart as a guide, but in practice, condition to taste, and plumb up accordingly.