STC1000 and relay

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Fil
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Re: STC1000 and relay

Post by Fil » Tue Mar 03, 2015 7:32 pm

mosquat wrote:Good info, and I like where you put your heater...just about to find somewhere for mine to go and assumed on the deck is the only place.
the fridge a ebay (no pic) bargain was a but smaller inside than i expected, no way to fit a bucket in and if the heater was positioned lower i feared it may radiate directly against the vessel wall and beer inside so i popped it up high and fixed a fan to blow down over it it seems to work very well..

ideally with a standard fridge with an internal bottom hump hiding the compressor, sitting the heater at the bottom under the bucket shelf seems to work well for most fokk and a fan helps too.
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate :(

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Normski
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Re: STC1000 and relay

Post by Normski » Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:50 pm

Grumpydev wrote:The STC1000 is two relays, each rated at 10A, so you can hook up both a heating element and a chiller to the same unit.

The ATC1000 is a single relay, rated at 30A (allegedly, there's some debate on that in the reviews, but looks like 13A minimum), so you can hook up *either* a heating element *or* a chiller, but I believe switching which mode its in is a bit of a pain.

So..

If you're using it for things with a load < 10A and need, or might need in the future, heating and chilling then an STC1000 is your guy - e.g. a fermentation fridge

If you're using it with a load > 10A, and only need to heat or chill, then the ATC1000 is the one - e.g. a HLT

If you're using it with a load > 10A and need to heat and chill (or if you need more than one relay for other reasons) then you probably want an STC1000 and some external SSRs.
Agree with Grumpydev.

If you want to control a HLT or Boiler this (30A model)is great. If your looking to cool/heat a fridge, its no use for that. An STC1000 or ATC800+ is.
The 30A model can be used to either control heat or cool, but not both, it cannot switch between them. It can only control either one.
I use mine to heat HLt to my required temp and hold it there.
I then use it to check my strike temperature in my mash tun. I then leave it in the mash to monitor mash temperature.
I then use it to on my boiler to bring close to boiling and hold until i'm ready to remove it and do the boil.
I then chuck the prob back in at 15mins to sanitise, and then monitor cooling down to my required temp.
Best £16 I've spent on brewing. Well I did pay £6 for a project box from Maplin to keep it safe.
I just use the included temp probe, seams to work well.
I expected it to come from China and take a month, but it arrived in 1 week and I think it came from hong kong.
Norm
Last edited by Normski on Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
The Doghouse Brewery (UK)

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Grumpydev
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Re: STC1000 and relay

Post by Grumpydev » Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:03 pm

Do you just dunk the probe in the wort/water? Wasn't sure if it was safe to do that so never tried.

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Normski
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Re: STC1000 and relay

Post by Normski » Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:00 am

Yeah I just chuck it in approx the middle and keep it away from any heating elements.
I have used a 2K heating element many times and a 3K a few times, both behave perfectly.
I did feel around the cables and controller for any heating and felt OK.

Pleas don't think I'm saying the STC1000 and a relay wont work. It will.
If you are wanting to use up to about 3k, which is the max I'd use on a 13a socket.
Then the 30A model is cheap and works really well.
It's also quite easy to wire up. There are only 6 terminals, and two of them are for the temp probe.
Two are power in and two are the switch in/out.

Norm

Sorry to the OP, didn't mean to hijack his thread.
The Doghouse Brewery (UK)

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