Fridge packed up..

[BenB]

This is why I don't like fridges for fermenting! Fridges are also a fixed size. Chest freezers are good (they also have better insulation) but are also fixed and they often have a compressor ridge which means the base isn't flat. For me the answer is simple- large MDF box lined with celotex / silicon and foil tapped edges and a celotex / MDF lid with a counter-top freezer with the door removed slapped onto the side. The counter-top freezer is just big enough to hold a 60W heater. A fan blows when the heater or freezer are on to get the air flowing (this is achieved using a simple 240v relay to isolate the supplies).
I'm currently building my second such device (I've also got a small chest freezer which will take a single FV). Each of the bigger DIY jobs is big enough for 2 large FVs. I must post some pictures - they work really well and optimize space nicely. Being a top-loader is (for me) a bonus- you can lower in the FVs using wire handles whilst standing rather than having to try and slide them in whilst crouching...

[BrannigansLove]

This is why I don't like fridges for fermenting! Fridges are also a fixed size. Chest freezers are good (they also have better insulation) but are also fixed and they often have a compressor ridge which means the base isn't flat. For me the answer is simple- large MDF box lined with celotex / silicon and foil tapped edges and a celotex / MDF lid with a counter-top freezer with the door removed slapped onto the side. The counter-top freezer is just big enough to hold a 60W heater. A fan blows when the heater or freezer are on to get the air flowing (this is achieved using a simple 240v relay to isolate the supplies).
I'm currently building my second such device (I've also got a small chest freezer which will take a single FV). Each of the bigger DIY jobs is big enough for 2 large FVs. I must post some pictures - they work really well and optimize space nicely. Being a top-loader is (for me) a bonus- you can lower in the FVs using wire handles whilst standing rather than having to try and slide them in whilst crouching...

Isn't a fridge with a box taped to it, still of fixed size just a bit bigger than the fridge on it's own?

[Matt in Birdham]

For me the answer is simple- large MDF box lined with celotex / silicon and foil tapped edges and a celotex / MDF lid with a counter-top freezer with the door removed slapped onto the side. The counter-top freezer is just big enough to hold a 60W heater. A fan blows when the heater or freezer are on to get the air flowing (this is achieved using a simple 240v relay to isolate the supplies).

Don't know why, but I had a chuckle at that - seems like a much more complicated solution than a fridge!

But back to your original point - I don't get what the size of the fridge has to do with this issue??

[Matt in Birdham]

Another update - perhaps we have an explanation..

I kegged the beer this morning, and then left the fridge set fo 4C with both fridge & beer probes hanging loose in the fridge. The BrewPi didn't need to keep the fridge on all the time at this point, so just cycled the whole fridge on and off - and as you can see, it was able to do so quickly and at a lower temperature than before. One thing that I had missed before, was that when the graph went from rapid cycling of the fridge (4 per hour) to longer cycles of the compressor, this was at the same point that the Brewpi decided that the fridge needed to be on full time (it ran the fridge all night, in fact). The only conclusion that I can draw is that the fridge limits the time/frequency of compressor runs, and that the thermostat is OK. I.e. if you turn the whole fridge on and off you can cycle the compressor much more rapidly than if you just leave the fridge on. Unfortunately, the Brewpi doesn't know this.. I still think there is something slightly odd about a fridge that only goes to 5C, but there you go..

[f00b4r]

Ac fridge should go lower than 5C to keep your food in the safe zone temperature range, I would speak with the manufacturers. Check that model is garage rated though as the coolant used (?) can cause issues if not.

[Matt in Birdham]

Ac fridge should go lower than 5C to keep your food in the safe zone temperature range, I would speak with the manufacturers. Check that model is garage rated though as the coolant used (?) can cause issues if not.

Yeah I would have thought so too. Will investigate the "garage rated" thing. I got the Beko because I heard they worked well in the cold, but I don't know if it is offically rated as such - although tbh I don't think that can be the issue as it is double figures in the shed right now.

[f00b4r]

http://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/climate ... -freezers/

Edit: http://www.the-appliances.com/articles- ... .asp?id=15

Better explanation.

[demig]

Ac fridge should go lower than 5C to keep your food in the safe zone temperature range, I would speak with the manufacturers. Check that model is garage rated though as the coolant used (?) can cause issues if not.

Yeah I would have thought so too. Will investigate the "garage rated" thing. I got the Beko because I heard they worked well in the cold, but I don't know if it is offically rated as such - although tbh I don't think that can be the issue as it is double figures in the shed right now.

Some beko ones definitely are as they use a different coolant but I'm not sure if all are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[charliemartin]

Okay, you presumably have more than one sensor then. If the wort temp sensor is being used to set the crash cool temp try using the fridge temp sensor instead, if possible. The fridge can cool the air much quicker than the wort so should be able to get it lower. Given time the wort should eventually reach the same temp.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Edit. Sorry this was a reply to an earlier post. Somehow missed the later posts.