Can induction heat through insulation?

[bottles]

Hi all,
Looking at options of getting extra heat into my 40lt hlt/biab pot. It has about 1/2" thick insulated mat covering base and sides. Hold mash temp great. But the boil is crap. Uses an alleged 2.5kw element that the controller will let boil for 15-20 min then goes to simmer mode.
Can I use a induction heater to help with the boil, without removing the insulation? Looking at 3kw induction heater or other suggestions.
The insulation is camping mat stuck down by previous owner. No idea if its (easily) removable.
Trying to avoid having to drill holes into kettle.
Will this work or what don't I know ¿ never owned an induction heater?
Andrew

[MashBag]

The short answer is no.
For induction heating to work the pan must be in contact with the hob.
Also remember certain pans work on induction - not everything. There must be a high iron content. Simple test is to see if the saucepan will hold a magnet. Most stainless will not.

Another thing to consider, where you are are plugged into is probably running close to max already...... So the issue is where you going to plug it in even if it did work?

[MashBag]

Better answers
1. Have you considered hot fill? From the hot tap or the shower? It doesn't help the boil per sa but it does reduce brew day.

2. If you can find somewhere to safely plug it in. Floating water heaters used in hot tubs might help?

I know... I know... sounds a bit like chucking a toaster in the bath.

[MashBag]

Best answer.

I went onto overnight mashing.

[MashBag]

...
Uses an alleged 2.5kw element that the controller will let boil for 15-20 min then goes to simmer mode.

Bugger.
I have misread this.

Are you sure this isn't just a controller issue.!!
What controller is it? This sounds like it might be a "simmerstat" type thing you would see on a burco. Not a brewing controller.

Much easier to solve. That said, and this is the important bit. For beer you need a gentle boil (simmer) not a volcanic one. So this could even be a perception issue not a temperature one.

Test it with a good thermometer. Check boiling point for your height above sea level and compare. This "might" be working OK.

With the right controller 2.5kw should maintain a boil in 40l in insulated.

Righto... I am off for a cuppa..

Cheers Andrew, let me know how it goes.

[guypettigrew]

Much easier to solve. That said, and this is the important bit. For beer you need a gentle boil (simmer) not a volcanic one. So this could even be a perception issue not a temperature one.

So, MB, are you saying a very strong boil is a bad thing? I've always thought a 'rolling boil' was needed, and interpreted that as meaning a strong vigorous boil where the wort and hops can be seen churning over.

Guy

[MashBag]

Let's no get off topic, cos everyone has an opinion on this.
My opinion is - it's a temperature maintenance thing which can be achieved with a good controller. That's not to say a hard boil is a bad thing, IME more an unnecessary thing in the scope of beers I have made.
Each to there own.

Also think "rolling boil" is gas terminology, which
doesn't translate well to electric boilers.

[bottles]

Thanks for everyone's advice. Something to think about. Just need to find a magnet.
The controller is a pico ed2bd controller that came with the pot, from grain and grape.
Issue for me is after mash I leave the lid on until boiling. Once rolling boil I lift lid to pitch hops and leave it ajar. Rolling boil drops off to barely simmering.
Andrew

[f00b4r]

You could also try a floating lid. Get a stainless steel bowl smaller in diameter than the kettle and sit it in the wort whilst you boil, it might be enough to make the boil a bit more vigorous but allowing DMS precursors etc to escape.

[MashBag]

Floating lid. Nice one. That's a good idea.

It does leave me thinking this is a controller issue.

2.5kw should do 40L. Might Google that controller.

[MashBag]

OK that came to nothing.

Do you have a link to the kit you are using?

[IPA]

My induction hob works with 1cm space between the hob surface and the bottom of the pot. I used 1 cm of cardboard and it heated the water.

[MashBag]

I agree with you. Sorry for not giving enough detail into my thinking.

Induction isn't a contact form of heating (like an electric ring). So does NOT HAVE TO BE touching.

However during the boil the induction plate and the pot both get very hot. The longer the boil the hotter it gets.
Easily in the same range as the melting point for some synthetic materials. Thinking: we don't want nasty fumes or damaged pots. Safety first and all that.

Plus any insulation I hoped would be thicker that 10mm.

The magnet test will confirm.

[bottles]

Thanks for differing ideas. I'm not totally confidant with the controller. It measures a few temps high. Not a major problem, but found the first few years brews were over mashed temp. Also the c 14 plugs get too hot. I've had to replace one plug so far.
What options are there for alternative controllers? I've played with PID in making as Herm's.
Andrew

[MashBag]

Do you just want to replace it, or build it into something else?

Look at the inkbird range.