Perfect spacing for grain mill?

[Wonkydonkey]

The ones I've seen, the roller shaft exstend out the side and you have 2 cogs on it.

And here's another way, a bit more work thou

http://static1.shop033.com/resources/11 ... 706940.jpg

[Brewedout]

That is really helpful! Thanks

[bquiggerz]

I've come up with a design in my head that would be cheap and easily adjustable. Have one roller that is fixed in place that has a gear to a pulley then a belt can be run from the pulley to the second roller. This would make the second roller powered and have enough play to adjust the desired amount. I'll have to draw it for you and post a picture if you're interested.

[Jocky]

Do those of you with only one driven roller find it a problem?

I don't, although I power the roller with my drill on its 'screwing' speed of 300rpm. I would imagine a second driven roller might improve throughput, but considering I can crush 5kg of grain in under a minute it doesn't seem to be that much of a benefit.

[Aleman]

Do those of you with only one driven roller find it a problem?

Not a problem at all, It's easier to start with no grain in it and then fill the hopper while the rollers are moving. I to use my drill on it's Screwdriver speed of up to 300RPM, but I do tend to reduce the speed a bit with the trigger.

Considering I can crush 5kg of grain in under a minute it doesn't seem to be that much of a benefit.

+1

[Jocky]

I can only guess that those that have problems with single driven roller mills are because the knurling (think that's the word) on the rollers isn't right.

[Wonkydonkey]

I can only guess that those that have problems with single driven roller mills are because the knurling (think that's the word) on the rollers isn't right.

I think your right, the reason behind this is. I had one that had a bent drive shaft, as well as not being finished very well. Ie where the knurling had been done there was loads of metal shards still on the rollers. Anyhow the knurling was very sharp.

As I sent that back. And brought else where, the one I got was very dull, not sharp. And I have read somewhere that they dull over time. Maybe worth sending it to school with my son and get him to give it to the metalwork teacher, and of course pay him with beer, the teacher not my son.

[Brewedout]

I've come up with a design in my head that would be cheap and easily adjustable. Have one roller that is fixed in place that has a gear to a pulley then a belt can be run from the pulley to the second roller. This would make the second roller powered and have enough play to adjust the desired amount. I'll have to draw it for you and post a picture if you're interested.

I'm open to ideas thanks!

[Brewedout]

Do the grain mills sold come with calibrated spacers? If so does anyone have a spare set?

[DeadFall]

Do the grain mills sold come with calibrated spacers? If so does anyone have a spare set?

Mine didn't. I just bought a feeler gauge set of ebay for a couple of £.

[Wonkydonkey]

No, but some have marks on the side and those marks are not calibrated. ,I just did by eye and crushed some grain, and ajusted it till it looked ok, so the husks were not all In bits. Then I got some feelers off a friend, I wasn't far out albeit still a bit small.

[Brewedout]

A feeler guage set it is then

[bquiggerz]

Simplified design drawing, the top left circle is roller 1, which has a gear attached. The top right is the second roller with a belt pulley attached and the bottom is a gear and belt pulley. I can draw 3d designs by hand if you want a better look and can give me a few days.

uploadfromtaptalk1440665015505.JPG (21.41 KiB) Viewed 2945 times

Hope you like the idea,

Ben.

[Brewedout]

Thanks for the idea, sorry for the delay I hadn't noticed that you replied. It seems logical. Does the green line represent where the lower roller can move left to right?

[bquiggerz]

The green like is just the axis in the drawing program, I've for some nice squared paper so thinking of getting some stationary and giving it a go by hand to give a better idea of what I mean