Sestos PID Versus Rex C100 PIDS

[Buster]

Thank you for all the info AnthonyUK, its really appreciated. I have since moved forward and bought a Sestos PID as well as the Rex C100 which was allready on order so couldnt stop that. Do you have a method of keeping your bag from touching the element in the bottom ( false bottom maybe ) or just a hop filter and do you use a sparge method in the lid of the Buffalo ( homemade copper or sprayball similar ). Really looking forward to this. Merry Christmas to you.

[Buster]

Anybody else use the same method. ???

[Fil]

Thats brilliant, thank you for that. Would this be the Auber Manual you speak of ?? --->>> http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manua ... %203.4.pdf

yep just type "auber pid manual pdf" into google and its the first link returned

its not a perfect copy of the auber but the manual from sestos isnt very informative, the auber manual has much more information, but always check the setting values in the sestos sheet if you use the auber manual for reference.

[VANDEEN]

Are you guys just dangling your probes over the side of the boiler into the wort? Or have you made/bought some short of thermowell?

I went down the "REX SSR" version route and had to do quite a bit of internet surfing to find the "hidden menu" access code to swap the sensor type to PT100 from K type thermocouple (a worthwhile change given the target temperatures we're going to be working with for brewing)

Quite happy with it and its currently controlling a heat belt on an insulated FV to maintain a steady 19 º fermentation temp.

When I build my boiler controller into a box I'm also going to add a means of controlling the voltage going the element so I can tame the over vigorous boil.

[Fil]

@VANDEEN check out the resistance controlled SSRs, instead of a dc current to drive on/off

connect a pot(potentiometer or variable resistor) between the control poles and regulate the power out with a simple twist knob

add an amp/volt meter to the ssr output for a visual indicator of power out

[Buster]

@VANDEEN check out the resistance controlled SSRs, instead of a dc current to drive on/off

connect a pot(potentiometer or variable resistor) between the control poles and regulate the power out with a simple twist knob

add an amp/volt meter to the ssr output for a visual indicator of power out

That sounds like a cool idea, any pics or reference to the resistive SSR.

[themadhippy]

why go to the bother of building a seprate enclosure for the pid and ssr ,whens theres loads of room in the base of the boiler

As for were to stick the tempreture probe,convert the boiler to bottom drain and use the existing tap hole for a therowell

[Fil]

@VANDEEN check out the resistance controlled SSRs, instead of a dc current to drive on/off

connect a pot(potentiometer or variable resistor) between the control poles and regulate the power out with a simple twist knob

add an amp/volt meter to the ssr output for a visual indicator of power out

That sounds like a cool idea, any pics or reference to the resistive SSR.

search ebay for "ssr resistance"
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... e&_sacat=0

Tbh i am out of my depth here (got mine in a bundle of ssr pot knob and dial) but the potentiometers come in 2 flavours linear and logarithmic go for linear iirc.. 0-500 ohm
but check the ssr you buy for the specific resistance range

here is mine boxed up with an amp/volt meter


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-80-300V-10 ... SwZjJU8C5o

simply connect the meter black lead to the neutral connection and the red wire to the live on the ssr output side, and feed the live output wire thru the meters 'polo mint' .
(yes they are thin as feck but are ok to connect up..)

[VANDEEN]

@VANDEEN check out the resistance controlled SSRs, instead of a dc current to drive on/off

connect a pot(potentiometer or variable resistor) between the control poles and regulate the power out with a simple twist knob

add an amp/volt meter to the ssr output for a visual indicator of power out

Cheers Fil,

That looks a neat way of doing it but I already have the std SSR's and a thyristor controlled voltage reg on the way so will pursue that first & appreciate I'll be wasting the unwanted power as heat, but I may well come back to that and redesign at some point in the future.

[Buster]

UPDATE:- my Sestos PID arrived this morning complete with 40amp SSR and a K Thermocoupler. I noticed that the Thermocoupler probe end seems to be very slack inside the threaded retaining bit, how do you make it watertight ??? I can secure it with a nut and washer no problem but the probe is still loose. Anyone else solved it.

[BenB]

A washer cut from a silicon baking sheet on the inside helps a lot.

[Buster]

A washer cut from a silicon baking sheet on the inside helps a lot.

Thanks for the reply but that would only seal the retaining nut which is done, its the actual probe that is very loose within the hollow retaining threaded part.

[Fil]

you can seal/secure the probe within its threaded body with jbweld,, HOWEVER you may well discover the threaded aspect of the probe is just steel and will be prone to rust if exposed to water.. mine did ;(

Also tying the pid box to the pot with a tethered probe secured at the box and pot can be a major pita when it comes to cleaning moving and stashing the gear..

Pt100 probes are cheap and unlike thermocouples can be used with Any Old** plug/sockets (3 pin xlr style socket/plugs are cheap and sturdy) but even a probe cable looped up with a plug on its end can be a hassle when it comes to clean up/set up..

Many folk go with a thermowell or thermopocket, ebay should supply one for £10-£15 I made some diy jobbies from 15mm copper tube and a compression tank connector soldering a 15-10mm connector and some 10mm copper tube terminated with a cap of flattened tube.. the probes contain a sensor at their tips SO as long as the probe makes good positive contact with a thermowells end cap it will read good..

yes... been there

[Buster]

Super reply Fil, thank you so much. I was thinking of a Pt100 short probe in a tee where the recirculating pipe enters the lid of the Buffalo Boiler so cleaning would not pose a problem nor would it affect the boil or tear the Mash Bag, what do you think.

[BenB]

Aha! Sorry- my mistake. I cured this with ebay 191436133569 but using a sesto. Depends if the rex can get into the hidden menus to do a pt100.