Leaky Cooper

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thunderbird13

Leaky Cooper

Post by thunderbird13 » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:42 am

Hi,

I'm in the process of making a cooper and I've made the holes and fitted the tap which works OK but I'm having problems with the elements.I've made 2 holes using a 45mm Q Max and when I put the elements in with there is a clearance of about 1 mm in circumference I've used the washers that came with the elements but there is still a slight drip. I even tried cutting up a silicone baking tray I got from the pound shop but there is still a slight drip.Does anyone have any ideas what else I can do.
I suppose the copper has to be totally drip proof I'm a bit worried about mixing wort and electricity !

Thanks

tigerpaws

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by tigerpaws » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:21 am

High temp silicone? like engine gasket sealant.

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barneey
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Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by barneey » Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:04 am

Hi,

What kettle elements do you have + size of pot they are in?

Most Haden style elements only require a hole of 38 - 40 mm always wise to check before cutting the pot tho, you mentioned the use of a 45mm qmax?

Not too sure about sizes of the cheap supermarket ones.

Any chance you could load a picture of the element in situ.

I`m sure someone will come up with a helpful idea to get over the problem.

Regards
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.

Name the Movie + song :)

thunderbird13

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by thunderbird13 » Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:49 am

Thanks I'll get a photo although its wil have to be tomorrow night - off to the pub tonight !!

Deller12

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Deller12 » Tue Jul 03, 2012 1:05 pm

barneey wrote:Hi,

What kettle elements do you have + size of pot they are in?

Most Haden style elements only require a hole of 38 - 40 mm always wise to check before cutting the pot tho, you mentioned the use of a 45mm qmax?

Not too sure about sizes of the cheap supermarket ones.

Any chance you could load a picture of the element in situ.

I`m sure someone will come up with a helpful idea to get over the problem.

Regards
You may have over cooked it if you used a 45mm Q max :bonk What kind of nut do you have is steel or plastic ?

thunderbird13

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by thunderbird13 » Tue Jul 03, 2012 1:41 pm

[/quote]

You may have over cooked it if you used a 45mm Q max :bonk What kind of nut do you have is steel or plastic ?[/quote]

Plastic , I have a pair of these

http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/public/det ... LE20206569

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barneey
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Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by barneey » Tue Jul 03, 2012 2:30 pm

Precisely :)
Most Haden style elements only require a hole of 38 - 40 mm always wise to check before cutting the pot tho, you mentioned the use of a 45mm qmax?
need to know all the details to see what can be done to seal it
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.

Name the Movie + song :)

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barneey
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Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by barneey » Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:11 pm

Heres my suggestions at the moment to solve the problem...

As you have bought the elements from Hop & Grape and unless they have changed their supplier, you have without doubt cut the hole too large for the element.

Solutions I can think off..

1) Get 2 stainless steel washer with an internal hole diameter of 38 to 40mm diameter and an external diameter of at least 50mm ish (certainly more than 45mm otherwise it will fall throught the hole you have made) but you wont want it too large an external diameter due to the curve of the pot. Construction = Element - old washer - new SS washer - silicon baking sheet washer - pot skin - new SS washer - nut ( + hope you have enough thread on the end of the element).

2) JB Weld Bodge - mix up some JB weld smear it around the element and see if you bodge a seal inside the pot... This would be far from ideal + element wont come back out again (without a fight). BTW leave the JB for at least 3 to 4 days to full cure, if not it will not set properly.

3) Dont panic - someone else will more than likely have a few other suggestions.

4) Chuck the 45mm Qmax away, I dont think you`ll need it again.

Hope this helps
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.

Name the Movie + song :)

Highlander

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Highlander » Tue Jul 03, 2012 4:28 pm

You could go for asda budget element, they need a 44mm hole so might be a better fit.
Though if your using a steel pot you will need to make a washer to make up for the thin wall section. This can be done by cutting a bit of plastic a couple of mm thick then cutting a hole in it with the qmax cutter and then putting the silicone seal though both pot and washer.

Martin G

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Martin G » Tue Jul 03, 2012 7:35 pm

I bought one of the metal nuts, think it is called KR8. It lets you tighten really tight without stripping the threads, I found it takes a fair torque to deform the pot nearer to the bottom. Of course no good if your hole is too small, but may give some options. There is a thread on here somewhere that gives a link to where to buy the metal nuts.

Cazamodo

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Cazamodo » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:00 pm

My element leaked and I used a silicone baking tray, with some mould resistant foodsafe silicone from b&q. It was the HLT so hoping it will hold up to the temps, but a4 brews in and havent noticed anything wrong so far!

Deller12

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Deller12 » Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:03 am

barneey wrote:Heres my suggestions at the moment to solve the problem...

As you have bought the elements from Hop & Grape and unless they have changed their supplier, you have without doubt cut the hole too large for the element.

Solutions I can think off..

1) Get 2 stainless steel washer with an internal hole diameter of 38 to 40mm diameter and an external diameter of at least 50mm ish (certainly more than 45mm otherwise it will fall throught the hole you have made) but you wont want it too large an external diameter due to the curve of the pot. Construction = Element - old washer - new SS washer - silicon baking sheet washer - pot skin - new SS washer - nut ( + hope you have enough thread on the end of the element).

2) JB Weld Bodge - mix up some JB weld smear it around the element and see if you bodge a seal inside the pot... This would be far from ideal + element wont come back out again (without a fight). BTW leave the JB for at least 3 to 4 days to full cure, if not it will not set properly.

3) Dont panic - someone else will more than likely have a few other suggestions.

4) Chuck the 45mm Qmax away, I dont think you`ll need it again.

Hope this helps
If you struggle to find washers that size i might be able to laser cut you a couple ;) how much clearence do you have from the bottom of your pot ? Barneey what gauge do you think 1.5mm-2.00mm ?

Lee

jat147

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by jat147 » Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:59 am

My fittings always leak .... Thats why they invented Fernox LSX.
No more leaks.
.http://m.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer/23614

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barneey
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Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by barneey » Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:24 am

If you struggle to find washers that size i might be able to laser cut you a couple how much clearence do you have from the bottom of your pot ? Barneey what gauge do you think 1.5mm-2.00mm ?
At a guess I think either would suffice, the thicker the less flexing involved? A litlle trial and error me thinks.
Last edited by barneey on Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.

Name the Movie + song :)

Deller12

Re: Leaky Cooper

Post by Deller12 » Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:49 am

barneey wrote:
If you struggle to find washers that size i might be able to laser cut you a couple how much clearence do you have from the bottom of your pot ? Barneey what gauge do you think 1.5mm-2.00mm ?
At a guess I think either would suffice, he thicker ther less flexing involved? A litlle trial and error me thinks.
I was not sure how thick the pot was and how much thread he had spare i will wait for thunderbird to chime in :)

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