Mashing tun

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gibbiem

Mashing tun

Post by gibbiem » Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:26 pm

Thinking about making a mashing tun. Instead of a mesh or copper pipe with holes to drain I was thinking about using HEP2O as its more flexible. Thoughts on this?

Ben711200

Re: Mashing tun

Post by Ben711200 » Fri Jan 31, 2014 11:02 pm

Is flexibility a desired quality? I'm a prononent of the copper manifold, cut with lots of slits (I like to use angle grinders :D ) but there are many ways to skin a cat

lord groan
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by lord groan » Fri Jan 31, 2014 11:05 pm

Wondered about this myself when I made my own MT. Looked at the pipe, saw it was a laminated structure, and wondered what they put between the inner and outer layers, in normal use it wouldn't make much contact with the water flowing through, but drilled full of holes it exposes the inner layers/adhesive/whatever-it-is to the wort. Never actually made a decision because ss braided hose came my way and I stripped the braid and used that instead. I still think I'd have preferred to go with the barrier pipe because of the bendiness and it is so much easier to work with.
I'd say go for it if you can verify that all material used in it is food safe.
hth

gibbiem

Re: Mashing tun

Post by gibbiem » Sat Feb 01, 2014 1:00 am

Ben711200 wrote:Is flexibility a desired quality? I'm a prononent of the copper manifold, cut with lots of slits (I like to use angle grinders :D ) but there are many ways to skin a cat
Think I've got some York fittings floating about actually. Could I drill tiny holes instead of the cuts?

gibbiem

Re: Mashing tun

Post by gibbiem » Sat Feb 01, 2014 1:01 am

lord groan wrote:Wondered about this myself when I made my own MT. Looked at the pipe, saw it was a laminated structure, and wondered what they put between the inner and outer layers, in normal use it wouldn't make much contact with the water flowing through, but drilled full of holes it exposes the inner layers/adhesive/whatever-it-is to the wort. Never actually made a decision because ss braided hose came my way and I stripped the braid and used that instead. I still think I'd have preferred to go with the barrier pipe because of the bendiness and it is so much easier to work with.
I'd say go for it if you can verify that all material used in it is food safe.
hth
Yeah true. I've never drilled into one to check. Copper is probably the safest bet

Fil
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by Fil » Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:35 pm

beerline Is a 1 material tube?? but copper is the tried n tested material..
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate :(

Dave S
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by Dave S » Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:53 pm

gibbiem wrote:
Ben711200 wrote:Is flexibility a desired quality? I'm a prononent of the copper manifold, cut with lots of slits (I like to use angle grinders :D ) but there are many ways to skin a cat
Think I've got some York fittings floating about actually. Could I drill tiny holes instead of the cuts?
Don't use the soldered type. You don't want lead mixed in with the mash. I used the standard 15mm unsoldered ones. It all just push-fits together and comes apart easily for cleaning afterwards.
Best wishes

Dave

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john luc
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by john luc » Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:20 pm

If you only can find the copper fittings with the lead solder in them it is easy to melt out the lead. Just grab the fitting with a pliers and hold it in the gas cooker flame,a few seconds later the solder will fall out and you have only the copper fitting left. :idea:
Deos miscendarum discipule
http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie

Dave S
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by Dave S » Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:54 pm

john luc wrote:If you only can find the copper fittings with the lead solder in them it is easy to melt out the lead. Just grab the fitting with a pliers and hold it in the gas cooker flame,a few seconds later the solder will fall out and you have only the copper fitting left. :idea:
Seems a bit of a pain when the unsoldered ones are just as widely available - B & Q!
Best wishes

Dave

lord groan
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by lord groan » Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:03 pm

Copper end feed elbows and tees are currently at a relatively good price at homebase, 10 packs are £3.29/£3.23
http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/st ... authToken=

I never expect homebase to be the cheapest for anything. Wrong this time!

Ben711200

Re: Mashing tun

Post by Ben711200 » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:47 pm

I got mine from Screwfix*

No reason you couldn't drill rather than cutting slits with either a hacksaw or a grinder. I know which takes the least time and makes the prettiest sparks though.


*They were very reasonable, though I should admit a certain amount of employee loyalty ;)

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far9410
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Re: Mashing tun

Post by far9410 » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:56 pm

if you drill holes, then it only takes one grain to block it, slots don't block so easily, the opposite is true when dealing with leaf hops :wink:
no palate, no patience.


Drinking - of course

gibbiem

Re: Mashing tun

Post by gibbiem » Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:21 pm

Think i'm gonna go with copper and saw slits in. Looking at one of them round drinks coolers so going to bend copper in to 2 semi circles. Use to T joints so it will end up as a circle with a straight in the middle. Cuts will go on the bottom.

Just a cheap 25l pot to source and I'm done!

alethos738

Re: Mashing tun

Post by alethos738 » Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:25 pm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Igloo-Sport-5 ... 19de535506
I bought one of these £30 + £6 postage. Removed the tap and fitted a half inch ball valve, 1/2" - 22mm adapter and made a slotted manifold from 22mm copper.
Simple no hole cutting involved and it work well, no noticeable temp change over 1 1/2 hrs, easy to clean too. It already has washers!

gibbiem

Re: Mashing tun

Post by gibbiem » Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:56 pm

Just made my MT. Got a question about the manifold... Used a hacksaw to cut the slots but there's loads of little bits of copper dust floating around when I've tested it with water. Any ideas how to get rid? Don't fancy them in my beer

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