Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
- Cully
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2233
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:36 am
- Location: with the powers of light and dark... I.e. Newcastle
Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
My Buffalo came yesterday and the little manual that comes with it is as much use as a spoon in a knife-fight.
The nob is graded 1 to 5 and then high. Does anyone know what temp each number represents? The manual says boil on high then turn the knob to the correct temperature - the manual fails to say what temp each number represents.
It has about 5 ltrs dead space. As I plan to make 30 pint batches, this shouldn't pose much of a problem I am thinking? Or would a scavenger pipe be needed?
The nob is graded 1 to 5 and then high. Does anyone know what temp each number represents? The manual says boil on high then turn the knob to the correct temperature - the manual fails to say what temp each number represents.
It has about 5 ltrs dead space. As I plan to make 30 pint batches, this shouldn't pose much of a problem I am thinking? Or would a scavenger pipe be needed?
Nothing's forgotten, nothings EVER forgotten...
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
That is the new design.
I can't help with the graduations as I've only ever used it on max with a PID for temp control. I think you'll have to do a test at each number as I wouldn't trust the accuracy of these TBH let alone from someone else's data and as these are pretty new there won't be that many of the new design around to start with.
I can't help with the graduations as I've only ever used it on max with a PID for temp control. I think you'll have to do a test at each number as I wouldn't trust the accuracy of these TBH let alone from someone else's data and as these are pretty new there won't be that many of the new design around to start with.
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
I guess it's one of the new ones then, it looks taller and narrower than the I have which I didn't expect. I think the deadspace on mine is about 2-3 litres and I just live with it. As for the temperature dial, just ignore it - max is pretty much everything you need - you can't really rely on a temperature sensor under the base to maintain a consistent temperature across the volume of water anyway.
Does the tap still just unscrew easily for fitting with a ball valve?
Does the tap still just unscrew easily for fitting with a ball valve?
- Cully
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2233
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:36 am
- Location: with the powers of light and dark... I.e. Newcastle
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
It looks likethe tap does unscrew easily, brass nut on the inside. I am hoping the cut-out wont come in to play as Its just for hot liquor and nothing else - I can pretty much get it in to the mash tun as soon as strike temp is achieved? Then just knock it down to 5 to keep it hot until sparge time. I am hoping that I dont have to change the cut out for the higher rated one as it looks like I'd have to go through the base and its not obvious how to do that as there is only 1 small screw showing. Hope I aint bought a lemon.
Nothing's forgotten, nothings EVER forgotten...
-
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2514
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:38 pm
- Location: Wirral, Merseyside
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
It should be fine. As already said, you could do a temperature test at each setting. I have one of the old design where the graduations are temperature settings. As far as the cut out is concerned, just make sure the element plate is kept clean if you are boiling wort in it.
Best wishes
Dave
Dave
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
If you get it to the temperature you want for sparging then turn the wheel until you hear the thermostat "click" that will keep it roughly where you want, then a few minutes before you need the water check the temps and adjust as appropriate.Cully wrote:It looks likethe tap does unscrew easily, brass nut on the inside. I am hoping the cut-out wont come in to play as Its just for hot liquor and nothing else - I can pretty much get it in to the mash tun as soon as strike temp is achieved? Then just knock it down to 5 to keep it hot until sparge time. I am hoping that I dont have to change the cut out for the higher rated one as it looks like I'd have to go through the base and its not obvious how to do that as there is only 1 small screw showing. Hope I aint bought a lemon.
-
- Telling imaginary friend stories
- Posts: 5229
- Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:49 pm
- Location: Cowley, Oxford
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
regarding the deadspace, dont forget the hop debris will absorb some of that and a gentle forward tip at the end of the drain will flood the tap entry point for a minimal deadspace 
the gentle forward tip to minimise deadspace is a simple and often overlooked solution..

the gentle forward tip to minimise deadspace is a simple and often overlooked solution..
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate

- Cully
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2233
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:36 am
- Location: with the powers of light and dark... I.e. Newcastle
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
No hops going in it. Just hot water for the Mash.
Nothing's forgotten, nothings EVER forgotten...
Re: Buffalo 40ltr boiler - some questions
Dead space and sanitising are pretty much irrelevant for you then.
I use mine as a HLT, but I also have a bazooka filter in there so I can use it for BIAB if I want to (the main kettle pot is far too big for that)
I use mine as a HLT, but I also have a bazooka filter in there so I can use it for BIAB if I want to (the main kettle pot is far too big for that)