any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
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- Piss Artist
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm
any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
Hi all, so my keep it warm thread seems to have brought up a brew fridge.
SO, I'd like to keep things looking neat. As such i'd like to build a panel, rather than hanging a inkbird on the wall.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07W13RVQX/ ... _lig_dp_it
thought about getting one of these at the appropriate size, for 1 of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KYL3W32/ ... _lig_dp_it
then in the fridge put one of these.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NT0X8K2/ ... _lig_dp_it
my query regards wiring the controller. In some of the reviews, it suggests needing supply into each of the outputs. So how do I do this?
I've never built a panel before, and don't want to blow any fuses.
My plan was - I assume this is what everyone does - is to add the heat source, and keep the fridge supply. Put cooling socked into cooling terminals (somehow) and heating into the heating terminal (again somehow) SO when I'm fermenting I can heat, but still have the option to use it as a fridge if the need takes me. Or if i'm not brewing another batch.
Should I buy a bigger box for further controllers/Switches to give me some expandability? I don't think i'll really go much bigger in all reality. I don't really have an interest in grain brewing but would like to do more cider brewing so if there are extra bits I should look into later then i'd rather get the appropriate panel size now and expand it later.
any advice would be great.
SO, I'd like to keep things looking neat. As such i'd like to build a panel, rather than hanging a inkbird on the wall.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07W13RVQX/ ... _lig_dp_it
thought about getting one of these at the appropriate size, for 1 of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KYL3W32/ ... _lig_dp_it
then in the fridge put one of these.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NT0X8K2/ ... _lig_dp_it
my query regards wiring the controller. In some of the reviews, it suggests needing supply into each of the outputs. So how do I do this?
I've never built a panel before, and don't want to blow any fuses.
My plan was - I assume this is what everyone does - is to add the heat source, and keep the fridge supply. Put cooling socked into cooling terminals (somehow) and heating into the heating terminal (again somehow) SO when I'm fermenting I can heat, but still have the option to use it as a fridge if the need takes me. Or if i'm not brewing another batch.
Should I buy a bigger box for further controllers/Switches to give me some expandability? I don't think i'll really go much bigger in all reality. I don't really have an interest in grain brewing but would like to do more cider brewing so if there are extra bits I should look into later then i'd rather get the appropriate panel size now and expand it later.
any advice would be great.
- Hairybiker
- Hollow Legs
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:28 am
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
You need a L supply to each of the relay's. I used to use a jumper wire from the L 240V in to the first "hole" on each. Then the other one goes to your o/p's.
I.e. On back of unit.
You have <L N> <R1a R1b> <R2a R2b> <sensor> (The connectors on the back screw terminals, a&b are just arbitrary assignments not on board ) The <> designate each block of connectors.
You need to connect :- L to R1a&R2a
L in
|
First relay R1a
|
Second relay R2a
Or you can use a PCT-214 block and have <L in>/L/R1a/R2a to each of the i/p's separately probably neater.
I.e. On back of unit.
You have <L N> <R1a R1b> <R2a R2b> <sensor> (The connectors on the back screw terminals, a&b are just arbitrary assignments not on board ) The <> designate each block of connectors.
You need to connect :- L to R1a&R2a
L in
|
First relay R1a
|
Second relay R2a
Or you can use a PCT-214 block and have <L in>/L/R1a/R2a to each of the i/p's separately probably neater.
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
I'm using what you're wanting to build:
One power supply in
Cool to the fridge from the socket on the top
Heat to the tube heater from the trailing socket out of the rear - shown unplugged 'cos it's now warmed up
Wired internally with 15 Amp terminal block, just snip off a smaller block with the number of connections you need to make.
The fridge and tube heater (60W?) are quite low power and easily within STC-1000 handling capability.
I had a bigger box with two individual 13 Amp sockets for heat and cool on top as I had them spare but that box is now sold. You could trail both hot and cold from leads out of the back - easier to drill two holes than carving out space for 13 Amp sockets.
One power supply in
Cool to the fridge from the socket on the top
Heat to the tube heater from the trailing socket out of the rear - shown unplugged 'cos it's now warmed up
Wired internally with 15 Amp terminal block, just snip off a smaller block with the number of connections you need to make.
The fridge and tube heater (60W?) are quite low power and easily within STC-1000 handling capability.
I had a bigger box with two individual 13 Amp sockets for heat and cool on top as I had them spare but that box is now sold. You could trail both hot and cold from leads out of the back - easier to drill two holes than carving out space for 13 Amp sockets.
I brew therefore I ... I .... forget
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
You can also keep the Inkbird controllers attached to the side of fridge by using the super strength Velcro strips, if you are wanting to keep things off the wall.
I have a feeling you want to build something though
I have a feeling you want to build something though
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- Piss Artist
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
so how come you need to unplug - doesn't the controller turn on the heater when it's needed and therefore turn off the cooling? and vice versa or if you leave both in are they in constant battle i.e heater on but low and fridge on max trying to cool it down to required temp
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- Piss Artist
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- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
yep quite bored!!
although I am working from home, just not much to do with everywhere closed, so I'm keen to build it as plug and play as I can really i.e. plug in heater, plug in fridge. Let controller do the rest.
But I've spent months building my garage so I want everything to look tidy
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
I've done a few to date, and I now prefer to mount the junction box inside the fridge, I remove the light switch, light fitting and thermostat, they're usually mounted on the one piece of moulded plastic, this gives you a live and neutral supply, plus the switch wire connected to the compressor, drill a hole on the junction box for the heater cable and voila, much neater than all those cables on top of the fridge
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- Piss Artist
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
see that's why I wanted a box really. I want the fridge to still be able to remain under a worktop. Cables would be routed to the external box which would be wall mounted.Sorcerer wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:14 amI've done a few to date, and I now prefer to mount the junction box inside the fridge, I remove the light switch, light fitting and thermostat, they're usually mounted on the one piece of moulded plastic, this gives you a live and neutral supply, plus the switch wire connected to the compressor, drill a hole on the junction box for the heater cable and voila, much neater than all those cables on top of the fridge
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Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
Most of the time the room is 18C or above. I built the box just to cool and ran for quite a few years before I got a tube heater.Hudson1984 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:12 amso how come you need to unplug - doesn't the controller turn on the heater when it's needed and therefore turn off the cooling? and vice versa or if you leave both in are they in constant battle i.e heater on but low and fridge on max trying to cool it down to required temp
Last week I did a no-chill brew and left it over night in the car port where I brew. Next morning the temp was 11C when I put it into the fridge. Once wort is around 18C, If you have the tube heater powered, you can find the temp keeps going down even after the fridge turns off (probe taped to the FV) then the heater kicks in for a bit, the "yo-yo" effect is not needed.
I brew therefore I ... I .... forget
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
Doing it like this saves routing the cables, drilling worktops and wall mounting a panel. Or depending on the fridge model, eg the whirlpool I was able to mount the STC in the panel above the door which had originally contained the light switch and thermostatHudson1984 wrote:see that's why I wanted a box really. I want the fridge to still be able to remain under a worktop. Cables would be routed to the external box which would be wall mounted.Sorcerer wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:14 amI've done a few to date, and I now prefer to mount the junction box inside the fridge, I remove the light switch, light fitting and thermostat, they're usually mounted on the one piece of moulded plastic, this gives you a live and neutral supply, plus the switch wire connected to the compressor, drill a hole on the junction box for the heater cable and voila, much neater than all those cables on top of the fridge
Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
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- Piss Artist
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- Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:15 pm
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
I'll have to take the panel off and take some photos.
Does look a neat option.
Does look a neat option.
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- Piss Artist
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- Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:02 am
Re: any electrical wizzes? temperature controller query
I leave the heater and the fridge plugged in. The temperature stays pretty stable, with the controller applying heat or cooling as needed, after all, that is it whole idea.vacant wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:48 amMost of the time the room is 18C or above. I built the box just to cool and ran for quite a few years before I got a tube heater.Hudson1984 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:12 amso how come you need to unplug - doesn't the controller turn on the heater when it's needed and therefore turn off the cooling? and vice versa or if you leave both in are they in constant battle i.e heater on but low and fridge on max trying to cool it down to required temp
Last week I did a no-chill brew and left it over night in the car port where I brew. Next morning the temp was 11C when I put it into the fridge. Once wort is around 18C, If you have the tube heater powered, you can find the temp keeps going down even after the fridge turns off (probe taped to the FV) then the heater kicks in for a bit, the "yo-yo" effect is not needed.
If the OP does a search on here or on google he will find plenty of guides to wiring and using the controller. It's worth reading a few as some people have slightly different approaches to the wiring (the circuit is the same each time but the practicalities of the wiring can vary), also some guides are better written and have better illustrations than others
Richard M
Cardiff
Cardiff