Herms advice plz

[D4V33]

Many thanks guys, your advice is much appreciated!

I've had never even heard of the RIMs tube before now. So as the water is recirculated through this tube and over the element, this basically does away with the need for the HLT tank altogether?

[orlando]

Many thanks guys, your advice is much appreciated!

I've had never even heard of the RIMs tube before now. So as the water is recirculated through this tube and over the element, this basically does away with the need for the HLT tank altogether?

Well you don't need it in the way HERMS needs it but you still need the HLT for the sparge water. I run my sparge water through the RIMS as well but turned off, though you could of course use the RIMS to make sure sparge water hits the mash at the right temp. Just makes things simpler with hoses and means no accidents occur if I don't stop the RIMS the moment the sparge water runs out. Just have to adjust the sparge water temperature to take into account the slightly longer journey.

[guypettigrew]

As well as sparging, a hot liquor tank is useful for heating the water you'll use for mashing. You'll need 2.5 litres for every kilo of grain you want to mash. If you're looking to make up to 30 litres of beer you could well need to use 7kg or so of grain if you want to make an approximately 5% beer. This would take close on 18 L of mash liquor. Hence the need for a HLT!

Guy

[orlando]

As well as sparging, a hot liquor tank is useful for heating the water you'll use for mashing.

You can use RIMS/HERMS to do that for you. I like to make a cup of coffe on brewday morning flick the switches on the RIMS and pump and by the time I've finished the coffee the mash water is up to strike temp.

[guypettigrew]

You can use RIMS/HERMS to do that for you. I like to make a cup of coffe on brewday morning flick the switches on the RIMS and pump and by the time I've finished the coffee the mash water is up to strike temp.

So, do you put the right amount of water in the mash tun and use the RIMS to get it to strike temperature? And what about sparging? Do you still use the HLT?

As you can tell, I'm desperately trying to find a reason to get a RIMS kit!

Guy

[orlando]

You can use RIMS/HERMS to do that for you. I like to make a cup of coffe on brewday morning flick the switches on the RIMS and pump and by the time I've finished the coffee the mash water is up to strike temp.

So, do you put the right amount of water in the mash tun and use the RIMS to get it to strike temperature? And what about sparging? Do you still use the HLT?

As you can tell, I'm desperately trying to find a reason to get a RIMS kit!

Guy

Let's see if I can help. Yes to the first question. After mash recirculation has finished and the mash is ready to be sparged I change hoses so sparge water from the HLT enters the top of the MT swapping that hose to the kettle to run off. As the sparge water enters the MT at the top the bottom tap has a hose that runs to the top tap of the ketttle. Obviously requires two pumps at the same time and balancing the taps so that sparge water enters at the same rate as the wort enters the kettle. The clarity of the wort into the kettle is perfect, as long as the mash chemistry is right. That's where Eric comes in.

Now get your CC out.

[D4V33]

Really liking the rims tube but will have to keep it in mind for a later date and build a basic HLT MashTun & Kettle setup for now. Will consider adding more once I’ve got the basics up and running.

You guys have been very helpful. Couple more question if you don’t mind -
What size/bore copper pipe would you recommend for the HERMS coils 10,12 or 15mm? and what type of connector/couplings do you recommend for the silicone hoses between tanks?

Cheers again
Dave

[k1100t]

what type of connector/couplings do you recommend for the silicone hoses between tanks?

I asked about connector/couplings a few years back, you may find an answer there...

[D4V33]

what type of connector/couplings do you recommend for the silicone hoses between tanks?

I asked about connector/couplings a few years back, you may find an answer there...

Perfect, thanks

[orlando]

Ive used both camlock and quick disconnects, the latter I have found to be the easier to live with. Can attach and unattach with one hand, easy to keep clean.

[Jocky]

what type of connector/couplings do you recommend for the silicone hoses between tanks?

I asked about connector/couplings a few years back, you may find an answer there...

I think that thread has all the knowledge and opinions you could want on the subject.

[LeeH]

I’ve used both.

QD’s are much easier to use but the do stick when very hot. If you have a connection that you need release when hot, a cam lock is more suited.


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[D4V33]

Again, I cant say thanks enough for all your help guys!
I've started cutting the tops of the kegs and welded up a good few 1/2" bsp sockets for the inlet and outlet valves. Drilled out some of the ports and fitted a Tri clamp element to the HLT. The hardest thing now is having to wait for some more of the parts to be delivered.

I'm struggling on what bore size copper pipe to make the HERMS coil with. I'm worried that 10mm will restrict the flow too much and that the 15mm will be the opposite. As well as the 15mm having a shorter length as will take up more space being thicker. Although I keep thinking that I could get away with 15mm and just throttle back the flow at the ball valve? thoughts?

[Sorcerer]

Again, I cant say thanks enough for all your help guys!
I've started cutting the tops of the kegs and welded up a good few 1/2" bsp sockets for the inlet and outlet valves. Drilled out some of the ports and fitted a Tri clamp element to the HLT. The hardest thing now is having to wait for some more of the parts to be delivered.

I'm struggling on what bore size copper pipe to make the HERMS coil with. I'm worried that 10mm will restrict the flow too much and that the 15mm will be the opposite. As well as the 15mm having a shorter length as will take up more space being thicker. Although I keep thinking that I could get away with 15mm and just throttle back the flow at the ball valve? thoughts?

Some food for thought here :
https://www.brewpi.com/what-is-ideal-he ... periments/

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

[D4V33]

Again, I cant say thanks enough for all your help guys!
I've started cutting the tops of the kegs and welded up a good few 1/2" bsp sockets for the inlet and outlet valves. Drilled out some of the ports and fitted a Tri clamp element to the HLT. The hardest thing now is having to wait for some more of the parts to be delivered.

I'm struggling on what bore size copper pipe to make the HERMS coil with. I'm worried that 10mm will restrict the flow too much and that the 15mm will be the opposite. As well as the 15mm having a shorter length as will take up more space being thicker. Although I keep thinking that I could get away with 15mm and just throttle back the flow at the ball valve? thoughts?

Some food for thought here :
https://www.brewpi.com/what-is-ideal-he ... periments/

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

Thanks!! That pretty much sums it up