Wilko Pressure Barrel Valve.

[Eric]

Recently bought a new PB from Wilko to replace an older one that began to leak. The gas valve is configured to take CO2 capsules and I'd thought the pin would be easy to remove. However, that doesn't seem to be so in this particular case. Before I totally mess up the valve, can someone kindly advise a method that might satisfactorily accomplish this task with minimal risk?

[IPA]

Be wary Eric because if you do remove the pin the depth of the hole might be too deep to activate an S30 gas bottle. Normally to remove the pin you just need to grip it with a pair of long nose pliers and pull it out. Lubricate the O ring seal before hand to prevent damaging it.
If the hole is too deep re-insert the pin upside down.

[Eric]

Be wary Eric because if you do remove the pin the depth of the hole might be too deep to activate an S30 gas bottle. Normally to remove the pin you just need to grip it with a pair of long nose pliers and pull it out. Lubricate the O ring seal before hand to prevent damaging it.
If the hole is too deep re-insert the pin upside down.

Thanks Ian, I am indeed wary. I thought the pin might be part of an insert held in place by the "O" ring, but that doesn't seem to be. I've tried with a pair of pliers but need a vice to get enough purchase and didn't care to do that without advice. The depth seems correct for the gas bottle if it comes out cleanly.

[Dave.T]

Hello Eric,
I have bought a couple of Wilko barrels, one of the roll pins pulled out quite easy the other i ended up drilling out and worked fine after. I also got one cheap off a auction site and found with all three that the thread on the tap bottomed out before the rubber washer sealed on the flange of the tap. After cutting about 1/8" off the thread it tightens up on the seal.
Hope this helps,
Dave

[Eric]

Thanks for that Dave. I'll examine the valve in more detail from what you have said. Reading the info that came with the barrel didn't mention the S30 gas bottles which made me wonder if there might be other limitations, but none were obvious on initial inspection.

I wondered about drilling or grinding out the pin, but was concerned that swarf might block the inlet. Thanks, your input will be borne in mind when getting back to it.

[soupdragon]

Forgive me if I've missed something but can't you just swap the valve out with the one from your old barrel?

Cheers Tom

[Eric]

Forgive me if I've missed something but can't you just swap the valve out with the one from your old barrel?

Cheers Tom

Yes indeed, or at least might presume so. There will even be spare valves on hand bought in times past, some from when buying a Wilko barrel with a 2" lid having only a simple relief valve that would then be modified to incorporate a new S30 valve. I wished to know how best to overcome this problem, both for myself and anyone who might read this forum with a similar barrel or intending a purchase.

I've learned a vast amount about brewing and how others achieve their objectives, by participating in this Forum. I give advice when I can, like those who passed their knowledge to me while recognising the combined knowledge here is vastly greater than that of any individual, but thanks for reminding me of the easy way out. My spares include a 4" lid for my early Boots 6 gallon barrel and KK, but I also like having a spare.

Cheers,
Eric.

[soupdragon]

If I remember correctly, back in the old days, the pins either pulled straight out or unscrewed. Although the new ones may have has the design simplified slightly to make them cheaper to manufacture, possibly preventing removal?

Cheers Tom

[Eric]

If I remember correctly, back in the old days, the pins either pulled straight out or unscrewed. Although the new ones may have has the design simplified slightly to make them cheaper to manufacture, possibly preventing removal?

Cheers Tom

That was very likely so Tom, but can't remember being faced with that option and will examine all my old valves. Several are made of aluminium, or aluminum for any American readers, which I doubt is suitable for small dual-purpose components. We also had a hiatus when Hambleton Bard stopped refilling their gas bottles that might have influenced design.

[Dave.T]

If your concerned about the swarfe Eric, just take off the small rubber inlet band and give it a quick blast with your S30 canister to clear any debris.

Dave

[IPA]

Eric I have just remembered how I removed the pin. Using a needle or a dressmakers pin I hooked out the Oring and then pulled out the piercing pin and then I replaced the Oring

[Eric]

Ah, a crochet hook, not sure we still have any. Will have to get the sewing box out. Thanks.

Dave, if it can go wrong, it will go wrong, and that worries me. There's at least a week, possibly 2 before it will be used, so I'll look at setups and how it might be carefully drilled through with limited risk. Thanks.