blowing liquid out of the airlock

[paulg]

What vacant typed. [b]Airlocks are not needed during fermentation

Yet if you look at some forums,they seem paranoid about oxygen exposure,even advocating transferring from boiler to a closed, purged fermenter bottom valve .
I visited many commercial breweries with open fermenters back in the day.Sadley most of them are no more

It can be done easily by homebrewers with big enough fermentation vessels.

My last brew, J W Lees Best Mild by Ron Pattinson one day after pitching before first rousing.
R0010910.JPG

Three days later and chilling, after top crop yeast harvest the previous day to leave a thin covering for protection.
R0010911.JPG

Any oxygen dissolved into the wort is immediately absorbed by active yeast.

You need a traditional top fermenting yeast.

So you are chilling after 4 days ,Eric
Do you the transfer to another fermenter or keg/cask/bottle at that point?
I have been leaving for 7-8 days before chilling and then transferring to sankey keg.I use dried notty/windsor yeasts as liquid is difficult to obtain and takes about a week minimum to arrive via post .not good in 40c temperatures

[nallum]

If you live in the middle of nowhere, you could quite easily culture yeast from any source. Your dried yeast is going to become wet yeast repitched regardless, right? There in lies a closely guarded 'secret'.

[Eric]

Well, I've never brewed in 40C ambient, but Brewlab is just three miles away for yeasts that the Malt Miller doesn't stock.

Typical fermentation cycle is a week in duration. Brewed earlier today and expect to cask that beer next Friday.

The yeast that was pitched was top-cropped from the last brew on 24th October and as yeast usually multiplies by four during fermentation, vastly more yeast can be collected and pitched than in an eleven gram packet of dried yeast and . Today the wort was 19C at pitching, ambient is currently 10C and the vessel is insulated. The FV is insulated and wrapped with an insulated resistance wire heating element. In summer attemperating pipework would be fitted in addition. Fermentation temperature is regulate and enabled to rise as fermentation advances when no higher alcohols will be produced, meaning it can be ready to cool after 3 days.

In winter the insulation is removed so it cools to ambient, in summer a chiller feeds the attemperator pipework plus insulation. After a week it is ready to be casked and can be drinkable after a couple of days, although it will improve if left for longer.

If you can get Proper Job in Greece or another bottle conditioned beer, you might grow a commercial brewery yeast.

[vacant]

If you can get Proper Job in Greece or another bottle conditioned beer, you might grow a commercial brewery yeast.

Stepping up Proper Job worked really well for me - one of the yeasts that "takes off like a rocket" (I believe that is the correct technical term).

[paulg]

Well, I've never brewed in 40C ambient, but Brewlab is just three miles away for yeasts that the Malt Miller doesn't stock.

Typical fermentation cycle is a week in duration. Brewed earlier today and expect to cask that beer next Friday.

The yeast that was pitched was top-cropped from the last brew on 24th October and as yeast usually multiplies by four during fermentation, vastly more yeast can be collected and pitched than in an eleven gram packet of dried yeast and . Today the wort was 19C at pitching, ambient is currently 10C and the vessel is insulated. The FV is insulated and wrapped with an insulated resistance wire heating element. In summer attemperating pipework would be fitted in addition. Fermentation temperature is regulate and enabled to rise as fermentation advances when no higher alcohols will be produced, meaning it can be ready to cool after 3 days.

In winter the insulation is removed so it cools to ambient, in summer a chiller feeds the attemperator pipework plus insulation. After a week it is ready to be casked and can be drinkable after a couple of days, although it will improve if left for longer.

If you can get Proper Job in Greece or another bottle conditioned beer, you might grow a commercial brewery yeast.

I do have my fermenter in a fridge with heat/cool controller.
I cant get proper job or any bottles that contain yeast as far as I know.
Their is a small brewery on the island that brews a dark and a bitter type beer that are non pasturised but are filtered ,so I dont think there would be viable yeast in them.I have never approached them about obtaining yeast but do know they were none to friendly towards a fellow homebrewer some years ago.
I dont usually brew quickly enough to reuse yeast as I brew 40 literes and dont brew again until its gone.I did once try freezing yeast but it seemed a lot of effort

[Eric]

Stepping up Proper Job worked really well for me - one of the yeasts that "takes off like a rocket" (I believe that is the correct technical term).

Indeed it does, though the starter I made, was never used.

I dont usually brew quickly enough to reuse yeast as I brew 40 literes and dont brew again until its gone.I did once try freezing yeast but it seemed a lot of effort

Yes, that is a problem for homebrewers using wet yeast. Dry yeast is by far the easiest option for most, but, with help from others, it does work for me and has substantially reduced yeast costs. I have found the yeast is usually good for a month if plenty is collected and stored at the back of the fridge, not frozen. For a much longer gap, I had earlier this year, a starter with a small sample of saved yeast gets it going again, and without an airlock.

[drjim]

Maybe try the Kveik approach with a kveik ring to reuse...

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product ... ing-beech/

[nallum]

If you bottle your home brew, or at least some, you can store your favoured yeast strain(s) quite effectively with minimal effort.

[Cobnut]

I made a 30L batch of a porter based on one of the Darden Park beer circle recipes. I use a Brew builder 7 Imperial gallon fermenter, so headspace is about 7 L. About 20 hours after I pitched the yeast (CML Beoir yeast top cropped from a previous brew and then grown on in a 1L starter) this is how it looked when lifting the lid:

IMG_8190.jpeg (2.31 MiB) Viewed 3134 times

If you look closely you can see that the yeast has touched the lid.

A few hours later (about 26 hours after pitching), it looked like this:

IMG_8191.jpeg (2.08 MiB) Viewed 3134 times

About 6 hours later there was even more yeast flowing out of the hole in the top of the fermenter, so I removed the lid and allowed the beer to ferment “uncovered” until the next morning (today) when the yeast cake had dropped back somewhat, allowing me to return the (cleaned) lid to the fermenter.

Who needs Kveik yeasts when you have British ale yeasts which ferment so quickly and efficiently!

[paulg]

If you bottle your home brew, or at least some, you can store your favoured yeast strain(s) quite effectively with minimal effort.

Well i usually have some beer left after filling my 2 kegs,so I could bottle a couple and yes use them for starters.
Why have I not thought of this before, Duh

I did once manage to get a vial of WL022 Essex ale yeast from white labs back here as I was in England during the Jan-Feb release period.That I did freeze but never used it and figured after 5 years it wouldnt be viable ,so through it out.

[guypettigrew]

Not sure liquid yeast can survive being frozen. But perhaps it can.

Guy

[paulg]

Not sure liquid yeast can survive being frozen. But perhaps it can.

Guy

yes it can be,https://www.homebrewnotes.com/making-a- ... east-bank/

I did several vials and successfully used a couple about 1 year later.The others remained unused and after 5 years I threw them away,maybe I should have tried reviving a couple to see if they were still viable

[guypettigrew]

Fascinating! Thanks. Mind you, I get three generations of yeast just by harvesting it and saving it in the 'fridge!

Guy