Interesting take on the build. Why the double drain on the hlt? I can only think its for a dedicated feed to a pump/recirc? or have you more cunning plans?
i assume your going for external chilling with an insulated kettle
2 x 3kw elements may be overkill in an insulated kettle, and perhaps you may benefit from some power controllers, especially if a single 3kw creates to violent a boil, the hlt should heat up superfast tho
for the chopping down of skin fittings chop off all but 4-5mm with an angle grinder or perhaps a jigsaw with a suitable blade? an angle grinder with a 1mm SS cutting disc (99p) will cut through easily. If your confident with your eye and hand coordination perhaps take off more.. fwiw my only chop with an angle grinder was not square at all.
a belt sander is the tool to grind down the last few mm.. im lucky i have one mounted on the bench, to use it i needed heat proof gloves and its not a quick job, (nasty black dust too)
with a hand sander you could hold the skin fitting in a jig or vice
have you considered using the elbow with a M20 washer without a nut to make the seal, pack with more m20 washers if needed.. ??
to test the depth and progress as you go you will need a small file and perhaps a nut and spanner to open up the start of the thread after a grinding/cutting.
i can dig out a pic of my ground down fitting if useful, iirc it was about 3 threads left on it when finished.
if you dont have the tools and feel a lil cheeky, argos will accept tools you dont actually need as returns within 21 days
. or if close to another brewbuilder a quick loan of facilities may be arranged ..
with a good pinch i found all i needed to make a seal when fitting was a light smear of lsx silicone thread sealer on the skin fitting flange rear and tighten.
for fitting the elements with triclamps (nice touch!) i think you will have problems finding a suitable fitting to make a threaded seal with the pot, you could however consider soldering a ferrule to the pot, its actually a very easy solder job easier than a 22mm copper pipe solder even.. with a good acid flux and clean metal loop solder around both inside and outside of the fitting and then simply apply heat to the triclamp fitting flange. being more substantial metal than the thin skinned pot it will soak up the heat and when its at solder melting temp so will the thin skin touching it too
job done..
i put a 2" triclamp flange on a 98l pot lid this way, once soldered i used a 38.5mm qmax to punch out the centre...
Hope you enjoy a trouble free build, keep the pics n info comming..
