Pitched 2 1/2 month old yeast with no starter

[Jocky]

put 115g of light dried malt extract into a litre of water in the flask and boil it on the hob for 10 minutes. You'll need to swirl it about a lot as it comes to the boil, then boil on a low heat. Or you'll get a really messy boil over! [/list]

A word of warning based on my experience (i.e. the pain in the wallet I suffered!), don't try to bring cold water to the boil in your Erlenmeyer flask on a gas hob. I did this and the damned thing cracked across the bottom.

My usual process is to boil the water and DME in a saucepan first and then transfer to the flask (which has been sterilised in a 160C oven for 2 hours, with a small piece of aluminium foil covering the top). I realise there is a small risk of something getting into my starter that I don't want, but so far I've had no issues. One big advantage here - other than saving cracking the flask! - is it's much easier to prevent boil over in a lidded saucepan than in a flask (simply lifting the lid allows the bubbles to subside).

Get a wire gauze with a ceramic centre on it. Helps diffuse the heat and stops hot spots that can crack even borosilicate. I always boil on my gas stove without problems.

[Jocky]

The info from Murphys is interesting. Especially the bit about a higher evaporation rate. Means I could sparge longer and still get the right length in the FV. The stuff about hop utilisation is also good.

It doesn't cause higher evaporation or better hop utilisation. It means that (particularly commercial) brewers can turn up the wick on the kettle without worrying about a boil over, which means they get more evaporation and better hop utilisation.

Those don't really matter at home brew levels unless you are constantly boiling at close to the maximum volume of your kettle.

[IPA]

put 115g of light dried malt extract into a litre of water in the flask and boil it on the hob for 10 minutes. You'll need to swirl it about a lot as it comes to the boil, then boil on a low heat. Or you'll get a really messy boil over! [/list]

A word of warning based on my experience (i.e. the pain in the wallet I suffered!), don't try to bring cold water to the boil in your Erlenmeyer flask on a gas hob. I did this and the damned thing cracked across the bottom.

My usual process is to boil the water and DME in a saucepan first and then transfer to the flask (which has been sterilised in a 160C oven for 2 hours, with a small piece of aluminium foil covering the top). I realise there is a small risk of something getting into my starter that I don't want, but so far I've had no issues. One big advantage here - other than saving cracking the flask! - is it's much easier to prevent boil over in a lidded saucepan than in a flask (simply lifting the lid allows the bubbles to subside).

Must have been a dodgy flask. I boil mine all the time on a gas hob.
Here's a tip if you suffer with boil overs.
Put the spray in a small saucepan and add some boiling water. Mix well then pour it into the flask and make up to the required volume with boiling water. Turn on the gas and boil for 5 minutes and you will never have a boil over

[IPA]

Thanks IPA,
A couple of liquid yeasts will be on my next Malt Miller order.

Although I could easily syringe a sample from the top of the actively fermenting wort, The chance of contamination would be less if I can use the Sample tap at the base of the conical. I am guessing it should be fine as that the concentration of healthy yeast will probably be fairly similar throughout 25 L at that stage of fermentation as it’s so active?

I'm sure that will work fine. In fact I now use one of these.
https://socohomebrew.com/the-thief-by-f ... ine-thief/
Because you only remove the fermenting wort and no krausen

[IPA]

Thanks IPA,
A couple of liquid yeasts will be on my next Malt Miller order.

Although I could easily syringe a sample from the top of the actively fermenting wort, The chance of contamination would be less if I can use the Sample tap at the base of the conical. I am guessing it should be fine as that the concentration of healthy yeast will probably be fairly similar throughout 25 L at that stage of fermentation as it’s so active?

I'm sure that will work fine. In fact I now use one of these.(minus the hydrometer)
https://socohomebrew.com/the-thief-by-f ... ine-thief/
Because you only remove the fermenting wort and no krausen

[McMullan]

No offence, but based on what you're asking my honest advice is buy some dried yeast and follow the instructions printed on the back of the sachet.

No offence taken.

Happily, I've found 95% of the JBK forum members are generous and helpful with their wealth of experience and advice, so I've managed to brew 60 batches of a greater assortment of different beers than I could ever have imagined when I started 3 years ago all with dried yeast, thanks in no small part to that generosity! I therefore, surprisingly, have a good stock of dried yeast in my fridge already and am not only able to read and follow the instructions on the packet but have even looked up the manufacturer's more detailed specifications for each yeast.

I've found that this kindness has meant I've had enormous enjoyment and produced surprisingly good beer with "just" dried yeast, but would like to try some more "tricky wet yeast" and really liked the simplicity and elegance of IPA's method of reusing and reducing the unit cost. I could have PM'ed IPA and he would undoubtedly have helped, but felt that went against the spirit of the forum.

I will, as you suggest stick to dried yeast most of the time, for various sound reasons, but contrary to your advice will still dip my toes in the water / liquor of wet yeast as I and friends love English bitters and I suspect that the effort may prove fruitful in the pursuit of better bitter.

My mistake. Based on your questions I assumed you were a complete noob. With 3 years under your belt I'd recommend you up your game by switching to wet yeast.

[IPA]

A quick update on my post about saving yeast. The method is outlined with pictures in post number six above.
I now remove the sample with a Wine Thief and store in a 500 ml swingtop bottle fitted with an air lock
.

P1010593.JPG (156.5 KiB) Viewed 1327 times

When fermentation abates I remove the airlock and close the bottle with the swingtop.
Another refinement to my conditioning proceedure is in addition to the first bottle being stored in a PET bottle
to check carbonation progress I now fill a 500 ml clear swingtop so that I can see how the beer is clearing.

P1010594.JPG (163 KiB) Viewed 1327 times

I do this even when the beer is kegged

[MashBag]

I have used your yeast harvesting method for many years on and off. Always worked a treat.