SOS Tri clamp fittings needed

[Deller12]

Hi Guys,

I am upgrading the brewery and need the following does anyone have a couple the would sell ?

1"DN25 sanitary female threaded pipe fitting to Tri clamp 50.5 stainless ?

Thanks in advance

Lee

[Fastline]

Have you tried brewbuilder, not sure if he list them on the web page but I'm sure this is what they put on the elements on there RIMS setups

I'm actually waiting for some myself from china

[Deller12]

Hi,

Had a look on the website could not see anything

I also have some due from China but seem to have gone missing.

The are the missing puzzel for my stainless steel element upgrade.


Lee

[Fastline]

Send them an email, they must have em , as I say that's what they use on there Elements on there rims setup

[Deller12]

Many Thanks to the member that helped me out with the ferrels

I thought id post a couple of pictures to show the end result

[Fastline]

Very neat, how are the triclamp fittings fitted on the stockpot, welded?

[Deller12]

No these are not welded in they are held in with a large locking nut. They fit straight into a 40mm hole

Only issue is the shrouds I'm making some stainless ones the 3D printed ones arnt upto the job

[Secla]

Why have you chose bolt on triclamps ? I thought the whole idea of triclamps was the sanitary aspect of them, surely adding a thread is rendering that a little pointless

[Deller12]

Why have you chose bolt on triclamps ? I thought the whole idea of triclamps was the sanitary aspect of them, surely adding a thread is rendering that a little pointless

The main reason for using tri clamps allows me to remove the elements for cleaning it also allows me to remove the large pan cake filter I made.

[Secla]

fair enough, I used to have similar elements to you with a lock nut and just doing them up hand tight they would seal.
Triclamps just seems a bit overkills for the job, Not that overkills bad

[Deller12]

fair enough, I used to have similar elements to you with a lock nut and just doing them up hand tight they would seal.
Triclamps just seems a bit overkills for the job, Not that overkills bad

I like the fact I can remove them quickly no need for dreaded spanners the other issue I had was the holes in the pot were 40mm the new elements have a 1inch BSP thread so rather than punch more holes in the pot this was a tidy solution.

[Fastline]

I'm fitting tryclamps on for the same reason just want a nice quick easy neat way to remove elements, I'm not going to have the plugs on the elements, just a lead with plug at control panel end.
Be interesting to see how well a Bergland pot welds, I've not cut any holes in them yet so not sure how thin they are

[Deller12]

I am sure my pot is either .8mm or 1mm thick I looked at getting them welded but was worried about distortion so decided for the easy option.
The weldless bulkhead fittings were only $26 each considering the amount of engineering involved I thought they were a good deal. The welded fittings are cheaper but you need to find someone skilled enough to weld then in.

[Fil]

rather than welding which can have a warping effect on thin skins of stainless steel have you considered soldering?

I have used a hi silver content solder to attach a 2" triclamp ferrule to a bergland pot lid, its quite an easy job as long as your armed with the correct kit, a mapp gas gun, and a suitable acid flux.

the trick is to only apply heat to the heavy SS flange, heating the SS pot will result in warping, but if you apply heat only to the large flange face it will slowly but surely penetrate the whole piece and the pot wall its in contact with.

i simply cut a length of solder 2/3rds the length of the circumference of the ferrule (circa 100mm) and bent it into a semicircle and poked it inside the fitting as i heated it when the heat penetrated it ran through the joint with the flux..
i then used a qmax punch to remove the lid within the fitting