another home-made shiny thing

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edit1now
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another home-made shiny thing

Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:59 pm

Mesdames et messieurs, je vous present:

A Very Large Pasta Strainer

Following issues back in early May, with the pump sucking the false bottom because not enough wort was flowing through the grain, I thought I'd make something with a very large sieving surface.
I'm fantasizing about a sort of mega-colander for the future.
My idea was to attach a cylinder of perforated stainless to an existing stainless thing, like this handle-less colander from Maroo in Alperton:
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which I think cost me £3.50. I was in the shop, thinking as usual about what items might be useful for home brewing, and it called out to me, saying "Phone home, and get the maker of TC to go and measure the inside of your Electrim boiler!"

I saw various posts recommending Mr David Woodland, who sells perforated stainless sheet on EBay as topsecretjob. He cut me a piece of perf s/s 820mm x 240mm, entirely perforated to the edges, for £25 including P&P. I first emailed about sizes on the 8th of May and it arrived on the 14th, which is fantastic.

How to bend it without getting lumps and creases? Two work colleagues make large model steam locos as a hobby (5 1/4" and 7" gauge), and one of them lent me a bending roll, which he uses to roll-up sheet copper into model train boilers:

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There are two geared rollers at the bottom, and an adjustable one on top, and you mangle your sheet metal between them, tightening-up the adjustable roller as you go, so as to decrease the diameter of the cylinder.

Just starting:
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After about four passes, tightening a bit each time:
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and after about ten passes:
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Now to MIG-weld the edges together (warning for the squeamish: my welding is not pretty) :roll:

To hold the edges together, temporarily, I stapled them into pieces of scrap wood:
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Here is the weld (you can see the s/s looking rusty because it was heated):
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and here it is after I wire-brushed it with the angle grinder:
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Now to attach the colander. The stainless cylinder was just about the right size to sit on the rim of the colander but the cylinder kept deforming and the colander fell through, so I made a number of wire loops for it to sit on, on the third row of holes:
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I welded round the outside and the inside, so I got this:
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then I cut three legs out of 8mm s/s rod to keep the whole lot off the element in the Electrim boiler:
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Nearly there:
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At this point I boiled the pasta strainer in fairly strong washing soda to get rid of the greasy stuff on the perf s/s, and everywhere that had been hot, owing to welding, now looked rusty. I suppose that's because the chromium/iron parts of the s/s alloy migrate around as you heat them. Somebody near me probably does electro-polishing (all your shiny stuff is electro-polished), but I expect it would cost more than the pasta strainer did in the first place. No picture of it looking even rougher than earlier!

Finally I measured the inside, and bought a 1.5m length of 90cm plain net curtain from Dunelm in South Harrow for about £2.50. (I can't find that exact item on their website.) I can't remember whether it's nylon or polyester, but either will do for above boiling point. The great thing about this stuff is that it already has a casing (the turned-over bit at the top for the curtain wire) which I'm using for my draw-string. Cut to length, sew up the side seam, cut out and sew on a circle about 2cm bigger all round for the bottom, thread some braided nylon cord through the casing, and there we have a grain bag for the pasta strainer:
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Here it is in the Electrim boiler:
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I did think about cutting-up another shallower colander so I could make a "safety edge" for the top - a nice rounded rim instead of the sharp-ish stainless edges. Bending rollers meant for this sort of thing have a special groove for feeding-in a wire for the safety edge - look at the top of a standard metal waste-paper basket.

After wire-brushing the sharper bits (angle-grinder again) I slit along a length of silicone tube and glued it to the top of the s/s with food-grade silicone sealant. You can just see this underneath the net of the grain bag in the last two pictures.

Pictures of it in use are now posted.
Last edited by edit1now on Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:20 pm

False bottom, false sides...more area for the liquor to trickle out of the grains :)

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:59 pm

Err...because the only time I tried without a grain bag it all went horribly wrong?

To be honest, with this mild recipe that has loads of grain, I did stir a bit enthusiastically, and got some grain between the strainer and the boiler. It bunged-up various pipes a treat, so I had to drain the pipes and find the (three or four) blockages.

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:07 pm

Actually I have got a piece of s/s gauze from Inoxia, but I haven't got round to going anything with it yet. The holes in the sides of the pasta strainer (1.5mm dia.) are OK but the colander holes at the bottom are about 4mm which will pass a lot of grain.

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:14 pm

Thinking back to your line about rust - what we want on the surface of our stainless is a very thin layer of oxidised chromium (the passivated bit), which looks shiny. If we have a layer of oxidised iron, it's brown, or black, or red like that new-fangled bicycle chain lubricant. Electro-polishing uses the stainless item as the anode, in a nasty mixture of acids, which eat away the oxides and a certain amount of the metal, leaving mostly passivated chromium on the surface.

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:18 pm

My experience with welding other thin stainless items (e.g. putting the handle back on the kitchen colander) is that you do get the discolouration, and I think it means that the iron has come out of solution on the surface. Thicker items, like a garden fork, haven't shown this, so either it's the heating of a thin thing or the mixture of metals in cheap stainless steel.

Anybody out there got a spot welder? I couldn't justify buying one just for this job.

Bru4u

Post by Bru4u » Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:40 pm

Get some pickling paste from your local welding supply shop for stainless, its a strong acid soultion which will remove the welding oxides, the underlying chromium depleted layer, micro slag particals and the other contaminents that cause the local corrosion, brush on leave for 20 mins wash off, job done. Wear gloves and eye protection, its nasty stuff. :wink:

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:58 pm

Thanks, Mr B. When I'm feeling brave (to face the welding suppliers, not the picking paste) :lol:

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Post by Aleman » Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:46 pm

I thought the issue of rusting (Yet another one) was that over heating the stainless cause the Carbon to burn off (Along with the Chromium) and then the damn stuff keeps rusting . . . More a problem with brazing than welding I would think (Know :oops:)

Bru4u

Post by Bru4u » Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:19 pm

By pickiling you will reveal a clean layer of original steel, the temp at the weld is far more than you would get by brazing, all be it localised, when you pickle even the discolouration from heating will be removed, it's only surface deep, it would only keep rusting if during the process the pool had been contaminated, before, during or at immediate post-cool, and I've rarely seen it happen with my welds. Preperation is vital, make sure you have just stainless left on the weld path, do not use a carbon or mild steel wire brush, only stainless, use a thinners to wipe clean the area and use the correct gas if using tig or mig.
I have worked at sea for 15 yrs and any mess ups will take about an hour to make a fool of you, pickle is great and dont try polishing or owt daft after. I hope this helps. :wink:

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Post by edit1now » Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:49 pm

I've been using Air Products Coogar 5 for MIG welding, which is a mixture of argon, CO2 and a tiny bit of oxygen. It was originally sold for mild steel, but the spec sheet said it works better than pure argon for stainless as well. I think it's been replaced by Inomaxx 2 in their product line.

I should try pure argon next time I'm doing something thin again, in case I get less discolouration.

Bru4u

Post by Bru4u » Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:42 am

No, Cougar 5 is fine, however, what you are welding is very thin and tig would be ideal, there is a bit of a trick to doing it with mig or a stick and it is to use the stop-start method rather than trying to do it all in one run or a couple of runs. Start the run and immediatly stop, restart once the glow has gone, about 1-2 seconds and repeat until finished, then wire brush (Stainless) and pickle. Any build up can be flattened down with a grinder, pickled and go again. Play around on a piece of scrap and you'll soon get the hang of it.
Bru

richard_senior

Post by richard_senior » Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:06 am

I plan on using argoshield on my mig. Apparently it contains a little CO2 which can release oxygen during welding leading to carbonisation and oxidation of stainless apparently. But I think the effect it will have will be so small as to be unimportant.

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