hop strainers

[Aleman]

Manifolds work fine, especially in 5 Gallon boilers, it's once you start getting bigger volumes than that that the problems start to occur.

I started out with a manifold in a 5 gallon bucket, then a manifold in a 10 gallon bucket, and running under gravity was no problem. My issues were when I started to pumping through a CFC from the FV, and a manifold didn't hack it. I've tried all sorts, from manifolds to SS scrubbies around the pickup tube. to a full width FB, stainless braided hose round the outside of the boiler and have finally ended up with the hop stopper. Without a doubt the best option for brewing big batches (Currently 80L) pumping from the FV has been the hop stopper.

As Vossy says though it depends on what works in your setup. I've even fastened a tea strainer on the back of a boiler tap and had that work.

[nobby]

I have made a couple of manifolds for the boiler and mashtun. I find the hardest part is fitting them to the taps. What do you use?

Also do you solder or not.

[bandit]

In the new year my 150 litre boiler will be in place. It has a slightly conical bottom with a hole in the centre. I plan to pump from the boiler to the fermenter through a CFC and hop back. Am I correct in thinking that a perforated stainless sheet with a heavy stainless steel rim welded to it will keep it in the bottom. I was also planning of putting an upturned pickle dish in the bottom over the hole. The pickle dish will have holes drilled in it to allow a non linear flow into the outlet hole.

I am also going to run the wort through a stainless steel filter sock as it reaches the fermenter. This way I hope to filter out some cold break and aerate at the same time.

[Vossy1]

I have made a couple of manifolds for the boiler and mashtun. I find the hardest part is fitting them to the taps. What do you use?
Also do you solder or not.

I tend to use these to fit to the back of my taps/ball valves.

clicky

They connect directly to 1/2" nipples and they have a o-ring in them which means they only have to be hand tight to form a nice seal.

Soldering is a personal choice I think, but lead free solder should be used.
I have used soldered and un soldered. The only draw back to soldering is that grain can get into the manifold and it may be hard to get out.
I found it very important to remove any burrs from inside the pipe prior to soldering as it's these that grain and hop particles get stuck on.

Am I correct in thinking that a perforated stainless sheet with a heavy stainless steel rim welded to it will keep it in the bottom.

It depends where your heat source is coming from. Steam generated from the heat source can get trapped under the FB and will lift it off the bottom. IanB had this problem IIRC

[bandit]

I have two immersion heaters above the hop strainer. I plan to half the strainer to allow easier removal when cleaning

[nobby]

Vossy1 I got one of those tap connectors, however its too big for the tap on my Brupak boiler.
The internal dia of the tap is 14mm. I found it I cut a cross about 10mm deep into the top of some 15mm copper pipe. THen bent the copper in a bit it would fit inside the tap. Some small light taps and its in there quite tight.

[mixbrewery]

It depends where your heat source is coming from. Steam generated from the heat source can get trapped under the FB and will lift it off the bottom. IanB had this problem IIRC

I second that - my copper has its heater elements ABOVE the false bottom.
Once the boil is going the force keeps the FB in place.