Stock pot conversion to Copper/HLT
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Vossy1
It hasn't seen use yet JM...this weekend hopefully.Vossy, what brew length are you doing in the 100l pot?
The max I'm planning is 3 cornies worth at a time, 57ltr.
57ltr post boil with 15% loss to evapouration and say 5 ltrs to the hops/copper (worst case) = 70.55 ltr pre boil volume.
In my copper 5mm = 1ltr, so even 30 ltrs under max it's only 15cm from the top of the pot...in theory.
I have thought about 4 corny brews but that would make it 97 ltr pre boil.
It can still be done by topping up during the boil or making a stronger wort and diluting
One thing to be wary of is that they DONT hold 100 ltrs
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Vossy1
The 70ltr pots are perfect for 2 corny brews.
I used to do 46 ltr brew lengths to account for 2 corny's, loss to fv, and I could also get about 12 500ml bottles out of it...perfect for me.
My pre boil volume was 61.4ltr, post boil volume 53 ltr and wort collected roughly 46 ltr...depending on hops. Obviously boil rates vary on own systems.
I might have to review the figures for the 100 ltr pots based on useage and those above
...hadn't looked at it ti'll now.... 
I used to do 46 ltr brew lengths to account for 2 corny's, loss to fv, and I could also get about 12 500ml bottles out of it...perfect for me.
My pre boil volume was 61.4ltr, post boil volume 53 ltr and wort collected roughly 46 ltr...depending on hops. Obviously boil rates vary on own systems.
I might have to review the figures for the 100 ltr pots based on useage and those above
...hadn't looked at it ti'll now.... 
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fivetide
One day I really, really hope some JBK nutter chucks in the day job entirely and goes into business making bespoke stainless steel HLTs, tuns, boilers, complete breweries and the like to sell to the less talented among us like me (who'd inevitably spin a circular drill bit right across the surface of a nice pot like that and probably straight into my leg).
Seriously, someone do it, you know you'd rather go into the shed than your usual work tomorrow...
Seriously, someone do it, you know you'd rather go into the shed than your usual work tomorrow...
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Vossy1
I've hovered over the post reply button for a while on this ss
The problem is, it may simply be price prohibitive. I'm sure that with a growing following there is a market, but with that comes legislation...blah blah....blah blah
If anyone wants to buy the parts and bung me £50 for the time and tools....I may be swayed
Naturally if I supplied everything I couldn't/wouldn't be held responsible for any failings
Giant 100 ltr boilers being swapped for a bundle of cash on a park bench spring to mind
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MightyMouth
If I dont want a sight gauge and I am using a Gas burner I would only need the following parts.
1 x Stainless Steel Stock Pot
1 x ½" stainless steel ball valve, part number 10397, £16.37
1 x ½" running nipple (brass) part number 6576, £2.16
All from here www.bes.co.uk
2 x 22mm ID stainless steel washers from a local BSA parts shop £0.90
or from below
(M22 washers form B from here www.a2stainless.co.uk)
1 x brass female straight connector ½" female to 15mm compression (local plumbers) £1.00 I am guessing this is the tank connector? have you got a close up of this?
1 x Stainless Steel Stock Pot
1 x ½" stainless steel ball valve, part number 10397, £16.37
1 x ½" running nipple (brass) part number 6576, £2.16
All from here www.bes.co.uk
2 x 22mm ID stainless steel washers from a local BSA parts shop £0.90
or from below
(M22 washers form B from here www.a2stainless.co.uk)
1 x brass female straight connector ½" female to 15mm compression (local plumbers) £1.00 I am guessing this is the tank connector? have you got a close up of this?
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buzzrtbi
is there a simple way of controlling (by thermostat or similar potentiometer) the heating elements on this? I will only be using the pot as a boiler.
Is there any merit in insulating the pot and using thermostat to keep the boiler in a "rolling boil". Thought being - if it is well lagged it will use less power to keep the temperature up rather than having both elements switched on.
Alternatively do you use both elements to get up to a boil and then revert to one element to keep it boiling?
Is there any merit in insulating the pot and using thermostat to keep the boiler in a "rolling boil". Thought being - if it is well lagged it will use less power to keep the temperature up rather than having both elements switched on.
Alternatively do you use both elements to get up to a boil and then revert to one element to keep it boiling?
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anomalous_result
If you use an immersion type chiller it will take longer to cool.buzzrtbi wrote:Is there any merit in insulating the pot and using thermostat to keep the boiler in a "rolling boil". Thought being - if it is well lagged it will use less power to keep the temperature up rather than having both elements switched on.
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fivetide