hi guys,
I'm very new to home brewing and have just finished my second ever brew (with extract). I've been doing brews about 1/2 the size of the usual 5 gallon batch - the reason being that I didnt want to waste too much should my beer turn out to be filth... The first was a little thin so this time I've increased the gravity and have my fingers crossed that it'll have a bit more body this time around.
I was wondering though - what is the smallest brew you can practically carry out to try out a recipe? I'm considering trying a very small brew (1/2 a gallon or so) with some leftover pale speciality grain and extra light spray malt to see if i can achieve a really light hoppy beer. Is attempting such a small brew going to cause me any problems?
cheers
trial brews
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stevezx7r
I was thinking the very same thought as I have some grains leftover...Here's a link - viewtopic.php?t=11635&highlight=mini+mash
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macleanb
I can think of four issues with making things smaller:
1. Losses - suspect losses would be percentage wise higher the smaller you go. i.e. I can never get that last pint out of the boiler!
2. Air spaces, unless you have smaller vessels, I guess there may be more air spaces to potentially oxidise your beer (I would think this only applies if you are racking to secondary)
3. Thermal stability. I would think that small quanties would be more likely to experience more swings in temperature if they are not in a stable environment.
4. LESS BEER!
Dont have practical experience (apart from 4 and thats a real bummer!) so these are just thoughts....
1. Losses - suspect losses would be percentage wise higher the smaller you go. i.e. I can never get that last pint out of the boiler!
2. Air spaces, unless you have smaller vessels, I guess there may be more air spaces to potentially oxidise your beer (I would think this only applies if you are racking to secondary)
3. Thermal stability. I would think that small quanties would be more likely to experience more swings in temperature if they are not in a stable environment.
4. LESS BEER!
Dont have practical experience (apart from 4 and thats a real bummer!) so these are just thoughts....
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stevezx7r
Maybe, but the benefit of trying some outlandish recipe on a smaller (cheaper 
) scale is always a good thing. Plus, if like me you won't be near the HB shop for some time and you have some leftover grains, popping them into a mini mash is a good way of getting rid of grains that may otherwise go off.
) scale is always a good thing. Plus, if like me you won't be near the HB shop for some time and you have some leftover grains, popping them into a mini mash is a good way of getting rid of grains that may otherwise go off.
Hi Tomu,
If you do my advice would be to use a gallon demijon under airlock with just one long primary fermentation (and no peeking) until the beer is bright or nearly. Also give it a healthy amount of yeast but don't go overboard as you'll have a lot of slurry to contend with at syphoning 
stage. Check FG gravity at bottling stage only if you need to for experiments sake (another 100ml gone )
I'm not sure what speciality pale malt is (I assume it's similar to carapils?) try increasing the percentage of this to aid body not the DME.
You've got to ask yourself though, all that work for only 3 or 4 pints?
Even if your post-boil figure is 2.5L you'll be lucky to get 4 bottles of clear beer. I'm supposing it's not convenient to get more malt?
Good luck though
If you do my advice would be to use a gallon demijon under airlock with just one long primary fermentation (and no peeking
) until the beer is bright or nearly. Also give it a healthy amount of yeast but don't go overboard as you'll have a lot of slurry to contend with at syphoning stage. Check FG gravity at bottling stage only if you need to for experiments sake (another 100ml gone ) I'm not sure what speciality pale malt is (I assume it's similar to carapils?) try increasing the percentage of this to aid body not the DME.
You've got to ask yourself though, all that work for only 3 or 4 pints?
Even if your post-boil figure is 2.5L you'll be lucky to get 4 bottles of clear beer. I'm supposing it's not convenient to get more malt?Good luck though
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stevezx7r
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tomU
err... yeah, I'm an idiot. There is no such thing as pale speciality malt. I've been steeping ordinary halcyon malt in my brewsI'm not sure what speciality pale malt is (I assume it's similar to carapils?) try increasing the percentage of this to aid body not the DME.
... haha no wonder there wasnt much body! (as I've said I'm very new to home brewing and I'm pretty much making it up as I go along).This time around I'm attempting a mini mash in the oven. Its been in half an hour now and its maintained a temp in the mid 60s C so should be ok. I'll chuck my leftover extra light spraymalt into the brewpot to supplement what I get from the malt.
quick question though - is it ok to return what I've hydro tested to the brew if all the equipment is sterile? is the problem the potential oxidation?
Yeah, you won't get much extract from pale malt, needs to be mashed
I would stick to speciality grains for extract brews, crystal is a good start. If you're mashing however that's a different thing altogether. It's more difficult keeping an even temperature when mashing smaller quantities, but mashing in the oven is a great start.
Chuck the spraymalt at the end of the boil if not too late.
But it would be rude not to taste the sample taken for FG wouldn't it? If not to remind you why you need to let it mature
I would stick to speciality grains for extract brews, crystal is a good start. If you're mashing however that's a different thing altogether. It's more difficult keeping an even temperature when mashing smaller quantities, but mashing in the oven is a great start.
Chuck the spraymalt at the end of the boil if not too late.
Technically yes. Naturally you'll want to check the OG so put that sample back in to the brew. Don't bother checking whilst fermenting though, especially in a small batch. With a grain recipe I'd expect a decent fermentation, providing you keep it at a nice steady temperature. Just check once it's completely stopped ie when the head has completely disappeared and the beer is clear.tomU wrote:quick question though - is it ok to return what I've hydro tested to the brew if all the equipment is sterile? is the problem the potential oxidation?
But it would be rude not to taste the sample taken for FG wouldn't it? If not to remind you why you need to let it mature
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tomU
all done!
- its turned out much darker than I had imagined - presumably because the spraymalt has caramelised...
The mini mash went ok - temp stayed in the mid 60s C throughout. Didnt have enough grain to get much from it though. Still, better than nothing, and at least i know it works so I can try with a much larger quantity next time. I've ended up having to bump up the gravity with honey this time around.
This was alot of effort and I dont think I'll brew to this small a scale again. I'll be getting the equipment to brew 5 gallons at a time next week. Better start prepping some recipes...
Cheers for the help guys
yeah, it was too late I'm afraidChuck the spraymalt at the end of the boil if not too late.
- its turned out much darker than I had imagined - presumably because the spraymalt has caramelised...The mini mash went ok - temp stayed in the mid 60s C throughout. Didnt have enough grain to get much from it though. Still, better than nothing, and at least i know it works so I can try with a much larger quantity next time. I've ended up having to bump up the gravity with honey this time around.
This was alot of effort and I dont think I'll brew to this small a scale again. I'll be getting the equipment to brew 5 gallons at a time next week. Better start prepping some recipes...
Cheers for the help guys
