White Labs yeast advice for Abbot clone

[JonA]

I was going to try some White Labs yeast as a change from the stuff I usually use which is scrounged from a brewery - and I wondered if anyone would care to recommend a variety to go for, as I've never used WL yeast before. It will be going into an Abbot clone.

Also, if you think the english ale WLP002 is the one to go for, does it require any special treatment? - like rousing, as I see it's clasified as very highly floculent.

Thanks folks

[steve_flack]

It is very flocculent. I've not needed to rouse it - I pitch a lot of yeast and aerate very well. It is recommended that you leave the beer on the yeast for a couple of days after fermentation has finished for the yeast to clean up after itself. (although that's a good idea with any yeast).

[JonA]

It is recommended that you leave the beer on the yeast for a couple of days after fermentation has finished for the yeast to clean up after itself. (although that's a good idea with any yeast).

HI Steve,

Just to clarify, I ferment about 4 days then rack to another FV then after about a week, lower the temperature to drop some yeast and transfer to keg. So would I need to leave the beer in the sec. FV for longer?

Cheers
Jon

[steve_flack]

I wouldn't rack this at all. It's a bottom fermenting ale yeast so if you rack/drop to secondary too early you'll most likely end up with a stuck fermentation.

[JonA]

ok thanks for that info, in your experience, about how long does it need in the primary before going to cask.

[steve_flack]

This is what I did last time - bear in mind I bottled this beer so there's some extra steps. I would miss out the polyclar if I wasn't bottling. I use a conical fermenter so that makes yeast harvesting easier.

1) Primary fermentation (20C) - 3-4 days.
2) D-rest (20C) 1 day.
3) Pull yeast for re-use. Add dry hops
4) Rest at 20C for 3 more days and then pull yeast and hops - discard
5) Chill to 5C
6) Pull yeast. Treat with polyclar.
7) Rest for three days then pull more yeast
Fine with gelatine.
9) Rest for three days - pull yeast every day.
10) Rack completely bright beer to bottle or keg. Reseed bottles with S-04 and prime. Force carb kegs.

[JonA]

Sounds good, I think I'll give that yeast a go, just miss out the polyclar as you say.

Cheers
Jon

[Invalid Stout]

I find Greene King's house yeast is very distinctive so I don't think using another yeast is going to give you an Abbot-like result. Just my opinion though.

[dave-o]

Isn't WLP025 the GK yeast?

http://www.brew-monkey.com/brewschool/y ... php?id=107

[steve_flack]

Do you know of any other brewers in Suffolk - particularly one in Southwold?

Not saying that that yeast is theirs as their yeast is a dual strain.

[dave-o]

My mistake - it's Adnams isn't it.

[JonA]

That interesting - I didn't realise that the WL yeast were actual yeasts used by breweries - appreciate that they are not exact strain matches.
Is there a list of which WLP numbers come from what brewery strains?

[JayM72]

Try http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

Cheers
Jason

[coatesg]

Though the strains are not exactly like the breweries they are supposed to come from - "Ringwood" ("WLP005") is another example (the original is several strains (~6?) all mixed in), Brakspear ("WLP023") is a dual-strain too, IIRC. Not to say that each of those yeasts doesn't make good beer

[JonA]

Try http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

That'll do it. Thanks