Compression Fittings Threads

[dean_wales]

Hello,

Might be me being stupid here but does anyone know what the thread is on the ends of 15 and 22mm compression fittings?

I might want to screw a 1/2 or 3/4 female elbow onto a tank connector or deck drain and wondered if it was the same thread?

Also does anyone have a link to a reasonably priced stainless or brass deck drain. Both in 1/2 and 3/4 threads?

Thanks,

Dean.

[tigerpaws]

I can't remember if the threads are the same . But you could fit F-F flexi line.

[barneey]

For deck fittings http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/skin+fitting

[Dr. Dextrin]

The threads on compression fittings are usually 1/2" BSP and 3/4" BSP (for the 15mm and 22mm fittings). That's not guaranteed, but I don't recall ever coming across one that wasn't. Just occasionally, however, the threads turn out to be not quite long enough to attach other fittings.

[JonoT]

Hi,

I have been using this tank connector from screwfix http://www.screwfix.com/p/tank-coupler-15mm/82376 with 15mm compression and fitting 1/2 BSP fittings to the compression end.

Hope that helps

[smeggedup]

The threads on compression fittings are usually 1/2" BSP and 3/4" BSP (for the 15mm and 22mm fittings). That's not guaranteed, but I don't recall ever coming across one that wasn't. Just occasionally, however, the threads turn out to be not quite long enough to attach other fittings.

+1

[stu-le-brew]

The threads on compression fittings are usually 1/2" BSP and 3/4" BSP (for the 15mm and 22mm fittings). That's not guaranteed, but I don't recall ever coming across one that wasn't. Just occasionally, however, the threads turn out to be not quite long enough to attach other fittings.

plus another 1

one variation to be cautious of is sometimes stainless fittings will use BSPT thread, which means it is tapered

[DaveSmith]

1/2" bsp fits 15mm plumbing threads perfectly but unfortunately 3/4" bsp is not the same as 22mm. If you search the web you can find adapters between the two.
You can also get adapter bushes for 1/2" bsp to 3/4" easily too.

[Dr. Dextrin]

Apologies. DaveSmith is perfectly correct, the 22mm fittings are not 3/4" BSP (although the old 3/4" compression fittings which they replaced generally are, I think).

[dean_wales]

Such knowledge and experience. I knew I could rely on you guys! Can you run your approving or disproving eyes over the following as I find the guys at the plumbers merchants don't tend to be that interested in chatting about bits and pieces to non-trade customers.

I hate syphoning with dip tubes - it has to be a stainless false bottom with a bottom drain below. But I am on a draconian budget!!!

So I want to fit a cheap drain to the base and tap to the side of my 50litre stainless vessel I am using as a mash tun and plan to do the following...

15mm brass tank connector coming out the middle of the base. I would remove the nut and olive...


Screwed directly onto the thread of the tank connector would be a female 1/2"BSP x 15mm brass elbow. Regular brass or chromed...


Short scrap of 15mm copper pipe to take it accross and out through the outer skin of my vessel.

Immediately after the skin there would be a 15mm x 3/4 BSP washing machine valve like this. The cheapest valve I can find and handily has a 3/4 thread on it - ideal for hose connection...

I dont quite understand what the "check valve" or "pegler" features are though and whether I would need it. I think pegler is a brand name? Does a check valve mean that it in one direction flow only? If so I would not want that, for cleaning and possible future under letting etc? Would flow rates be an issues?

I would then be able to directly screw on a 3/4 BSP brass tap connector like this (I know its not 100% food safe):


Which would allow me to connect to my existing reinforced clear hose (with a quick release brass fitting on the end):


I dont mind using PTFE and/or some kind of sealant to ensure a good fit but I dont want any leaks. Too many years of that with plastic stuff and this will be covered and sealed inside insulation.

Thanks,

Dean.

[dean_wales]

In fact. If only I could find a cheap brass or stainless 90 degree bent tank connector this would all be simpler and more compact to install.

Can only see plastic ones...

Dean.

EDIT: Some serious googling has led me to this: http://www.generalsupplies.com/products ... number=378


Gonna send them an email now to see if they are available and price etc.

[DaveSmith]

Looks like you've got everything sorted out.
My only comment is that the washing machine valves are sometimes fairly easy to turn (and may be a slightly smaller bore) whereas a level ball valve would probably be a bit stiffer and so less likely to get knocked open accidentally. If you could stretch to the extra cost of a ball valve you would obviously need an extra bush adapter to take you back up to 3/4" bsp of the tap connector from the 1/2"bsp of a 15mm valve.

[DaveSmith]

I'd go for the first tank connector that you pictured as you can tighten it up from the outside when the vessel is full by gripping the main thread with some mole grips. I know that you should check that all joints are tightened up before filling the vessel but I once had a minor drip when the heat slightly loosened things and the vessel was in use .

[Dr. Dextrin]

An alternative might be a hose barb that has a 3/4" female tap connector. That'd be a bit more effort to screw on, but less likely to leak than the push-on hose fittings, IME.

[dean_wales]

The solid brass hose barbs/tails combined with a jubilee are my other option but I have kinda decided against them.

PROs: Cheaper, much less likely to leak, only metal so totally foodsafe.
CONs: No quick release for cleaning and swapping around of hoses and pumps mid brewer.

Diffcult really. As per another thread I really would like some form of quick-ish realease system for the hoses as I miss it at the moment.

Thanks,

Dean.