Conditioning in fridge

[barry44]

Hi guys,

bought myself a fridge and am currently assembling the parts to make a brew fridge which shall be ready for when i bottle my Coopers IPA.

My intention is to get another FV on the go with lager or pale ale in it, which shall be fermented for 2 weeks in the fridge prior to bottling.

I intend to keep the IPA in the hall cupboard where i am currently fermenting it, which sits at 21 or thereabouts all day long, for 2 weeks, whilst the other brew ferments, then put it into the fridge to allow it to condition further at a lower temperature.

I will then add the second lot of bottles after their 2 weeks in the cupboard.

What temperature is recommended for the cold conditioning period and is this suitable for both IPA & lager/pale ale?

Cheers,

Barry

[Cozzyb]

I don't think there is a specific temp for cold conditioning, I have heard some people say they gradually drop the temp every few days, honestly I just stick my bottles in the outhouse or cellar after 2 weeks, seems to work fine. I think you want to brew the lager in the fridge about 13c but I could be wrong so double check this.
Oh not sure if you have counted this in, but lager fementing at 13c or around that will take longer, so presume the brew will take a couple of weeks at least.

[Bailz]

once i have bottled my beer from the fv how long should i leave it to stand and were is best to put it can some go in the fridge ready to drink?
bailz

[Wolfy]

I don't quite understand the process you have outlined. Will you be 'cold conditioning' the beer in the fermentor or after it's been bottled?

At temperatures of about 4degC and below, there is virtually no yeast-activity (it's essentially been pushed into dormancy) so it will settle out, which helps clear the beer. Hence it's important to complete this step only after the yeast have finished all their work - which means the beer should only be chilled a few days after it's reached FG. Since there is virtually no yeast activity at such low temperature, you don't really have to worry (too much) about cooling the beer 'too quickly' which might be a consideration if the 'conditioning' is done at warmer temperatures.

[barry44]

@Wolfy, I understood the conditioning process to be 2 weeks in the dark to allow secondary fermentation to occur in the bottles. Therefore the 'cold conditioning' shall be in the bottle rather than in the fermenter.

My lhbs told me then that another week in a cooler environment would finish the beer off and be good for drinking.

After reading on here i realise that this was rather optimistic and am proposing to store it in the fridge once the initial conditioning is complete.

However, following the purchase of my fridge, it appears that i won't be able to get all of my bottles into the fridge as per my original thoughts without finding a new home for the FV. Thus, would it be detrimental to keep a portion of the bottles at room temperature whilst the other portion is stored at 4 degrees as per your post? Would one benefit by being stored in the warmth/cold?

I could possible store all of the bottles on their sides within the fridge at the lower temperature, would this work? I understand that the sediment should fall to the bottom of the bottle and collect there thus leaving a clearer drink but is this a gradual process, i.e. over several weeks or does this happen quite quickly?

I could store the majority on their sides whilst keeping a stock upright for drinking, thus replenishing them as i take them out.

Apologies for rambling post!!

@Bailz. I reckon 2 weeks in the FV, then 2 weeks in the dark where you brewed, then into the fridge as described above. I have the IPA kit which people on here are saying that it only gets good after 6-8 weeks in the bottle. I am unsure as to what temp the bottles should be sat at for this period though!!

[Wolfy]

Bottle conditioning generally requires a few weeks (the exact time depends on the temperature and yeast) in addition many beers improve as they age.
However I'm not aware of any home brewers that specifically 'cold condition' bottles in the fridge after they've been carbonated - generally that process is completed before the beer is packaged.

[barry44]

many thanks, it appears that i have my wires crossed!

would you drop the temperature of the beer whilst it is still in the fv prior to bottling and carbonating?

[orlando]

There does appear to be a confusion over the term conditioning. Commercial brewers often use conditioning tanks after a beer has fermented out and prior to bottling. Then the bottle further conditions (carbonates) in the bottle. From our perspective we typically rack off from the FV into a bottling bucket or straight into bottle and do all the conditioning in bottle. As Wolfy says this part depends on yeast and gravity actually, as to how long and of course the temperature it is carried out in. Typically warm conditioning is done at 18-20 for a week for each 10 degrees of gravity. So 1.040 OG, 4 weeks conditioning (minimum). The cold conditioning part does at least 2 things. First it helps drop out any yeast that might not of flocculated properly and secondly helps dissolve the CO2 into the beer. I have also found that it helps stabilise a beer and helps with chill haze. Although a really good hot break and cold break is the best place to deal with that. After that storage at or below drinking temperature helps to further condition the beer and develop its flavour.

Your comment on conditioning the beers on their sides was a little troubling as it will encourage the yeast to lie along the side of the bottle making pouring a clear pint unlikely.

[Wolfy]

would you drop the temperature of the beer whilst it is still in the fv prior to bottling and carbonating?

Yes, that's my usual practice for most every beer I make:
Leave the beer in the FV until fermentation is complete, wait a few more days (to ensure that everything is finished), then set the fridge to as low temperature as it will go and 'cold condition' (the beer in the FV) for a few days (or longer), before it's packaged (bottled or kegged).
For me, I find the extra step helps clear/condition the beer, drop out the yeast, and reduce chill haze, and that I don't need to add additional finnings etc.
The reason for doing it before the beer is packaged (bottled/kegged) is so that the yeast, trub and other stuff is left behind in the fermentor and not carried into the bottle/keg.

Once the beer is bottled, it its then 'bottle conditioned' (which is different to 'cold conditioning') for a few weeks at warm/room temperature so the yeast can carbonate the beer.
Beer might be put into the fridge prior to drinking, but I usually find that it's as bright/clear as it's going to be (after a few weeks in the bottle), with the yeast settled to the bottom of the bottle, without having to take any additional steps.

[barry44]

@orlando, many thanks for the reply.

My OG was 1.038 so am i looking at 4 weeks minimum in the warm for best results? After the four weeks where should i be putting the bottles as i am struggling to find a cool place at the moment! The understairs cupboard where i brew is probably the coldest place but this is still touching 21 degrees through the day.

My plan is to have 2 sets of 48 bottles to allow me to have 2 different types of beer or more at any given time. The first set will be bottled in a week and shall then sit on top of my brew fridge in the cupboard at c21 degrees for four weeks to warm condition. At the start of this four week period, i would expect to commence a second fermentation so after 2 weeks in the fv i would have bottled another brew.

Following this second bottling, i will remove the fv from the fridge, re install the shelves and fill the fridge with bottles, set my stc 1000 at 18 and leave them all for at least 4 weeks, to allow the second set of bottles sufficient time to warm condition.

Following the full warm condition period, i could set the fridge to 10 degrees to maintain the bottles at drinking temperature, ipa & lager, and relocate the lagers to the kitchen fridge prior to drinking.

However, once i get through enough bottles to commence another brew, i would be looking to reintroduce the fv into the brew fridge for an 18-20 degree fermentation. Will keeping the bottles in the fridge harm them? i.e. going from 10 degrees back to 18-20?

With regard to the side storage, i thought that it would be problematic re the yeast settling but it was only for a period of time, where i would remove, and drink, up right bottles and relocate the side stored bottles upright in the fridge at the back, hopefully giving time for the sediments to resettle at the bottom. Would this work?

Thanks for your comments, you are really assisting me in the wonderful world of homebrew!!

@wolfy, typed this up prior to seeing your post. Will review and respond!! cheers.

[Monkeybrew]

would you drop the temperature of the beer whilst it is still in the fv prior to bottling and carbonating?

Yes, that's my usual practice for most every beer I make:
Leave the beer in the FV until fermentation is complete, wait a few more days (to ensure that everything is finished), then set the fridge to as low temperature as it will go and 'cold condition' (the beer in the FV) for a few days (or longer), before it's packaged (bottled or kegged).
For me, I find the extra step helps clear/condition the beer, drop out the yeast, and reduce chill haze, and that I don't need to add additional finnings etc.
The reason for doing it before the beer is packaged (bottled/kegged) is so that the yeast, trub and other stuff is left behind in the fermentor and not carried into the bottle/keg.

Once the beer is bottled, it its then 'bottle conditioned' (which is different to 'cold conditioning') for a few weeks at warm/room temperature so the yeast can carbonate the beer.
Beer might be put into the fridge prior to drinking, but I usually find that it's as bright/clear as it's going to be (after a few weeks in the bottle), with the yeast settled to the bottom of the bottle, without having to take any additional steps.

+1 to this, its pretty much what I've been doing with my last few brews and it makes a huge difference with sediment reduction in the bottle

Try not to overthink the whole conditioning thing. Once my bottled brews have been in the house for 2 weeks to carbonate, I then transfer them into crates in my garage come summer or winter and they all seem to condition/mature into nice ales or lagers.

Kit brews are pretty fool proof tbh, so chill and have a beer

[barry44]

For me, I find the extra step helps clear/condition the beer, drop out the yeast, and reduce chill haze, and that I don't need to add additional finnings etc.
The reason for doing it before the beer is packaged (bottled/kegged) is so that the yeast, trub and other stuff is left behind in the fermentor and not carried into the bottle/keg.

Once the beer is bottled, it its then 'bottle conditioned' (which is different to 'cold conditioning') for a few weeks at warm/room temperature so the yeast can carbonate the beer.

I am confused!

After cold conditioning, will there be sufficient yeast in the bottled beer to carry out carbonation?

[orlando]

Bottle conditioning in the warm produces the fizz, cold conditioning forces it into solution, but isn't entirely necessary. The yeast will be in the bottle the moment you transfer it from the bottling bucket to the bottle. Even if you think it is crystal clear when you do it there will still be enough cells left over to complete the job. Wolfy only meant the trub and MOST of the yeast is left behind, not all. During cold conditioning the yeast go dormant which is why the warm conditioning happens first.

[Monkeybrew]

For me, I find the extra step helps clear/condition the beer, drop out the yeast, and reduce chill haze, and that I don't need to add additional finnings etc.
The reason for doing it before the beer is packaged (bottled/kegged) is so that the yeast, trub and other stuff is left behind in the fermentor and not carried into the bottle/keg.

Once the beer is bottled, it its then 'bottle conditioned' (which is different to 'cold conditioning') for a few weeks at warm/room temperature so the yeast can carbonate the beer.

I am confused!

After cold conditioning, will there be sufficient yeast in the bottled beer to carry out carbonation?

I recently bottled a Coopers Pilsener and crash chilled it for a few days before bottling. At bottling it looked almost crystal clear in the bottle, but after 10 days in the warm there was a fine layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle.

I popped one in the fridge for a day and then cracked it open to find nice carbonation and a good head.

[orlando]

With regard to the side storage, i thought that it would be problematic re the yeast settling but it was only for a period of time, where i would remove, and drink, up right bottles and relocate the side stored bottles upright in the fridge at the back, hopefully giving time for the sediments to resettle at the bottom. Would this work?

Given enough time I would think so but why bother. I would just leave them until you want to drink them then refrigerate for 1/2 hour until they are at the temp you like. I cold condition only my early brews i.e. 4 weeks, so that they are properly carbed but it isn't necessary for beers older than that and if they are not properly carbed after a couple of months then something has gone wrong.

Monkeybrews advice is good, relax have a home brew.